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First up, I imagine these mods to be for Off Road Use Only tho rules everywhere differ. They do affect handling and therefore safety. I have not had any bad probs yet.
I redrilled axle plate and spring perch on the axle housings, thus bring diff forward, for tyre clearance and better weight balance for climbing.
Half way between the original hole and the edge of the axle spring perch seemed strongest idea, and is max possible without moving steer box.
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To avoid any complex building of shock mounts, I just spaced the bottom of the shock back, about 5-8mm just enough so nut still fits, and also added a bit of length to the sleeve inside the shock rubber.
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I spaced down the top of the shock by using two OME bushes under the mount, and to stop it coming loose I used a lock nut on the small standard rubber on top...the spacing means nut dont lock up hard on metal.
I did this because during some work on truck I noticed springs had more down than the shock allowed. And because of lightness it hardly ever uses all its up travel anyway.
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Because of the extra travel, brakelines were over stretched..people with money just buy longer ones..people with welders move the bracket..I found bending the bracket outwards allowed enough length in the line You would have to measure own truck as all are different.
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Wasn't necessary to mod steering box position as only a small move forward of the diff made it not needed. Two rag joints is because of the Body Lift. Its safer, I think, than stretching your luck with the spline length.
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Don't go too long on front shackles as steering/handling will be adversely affected..some decide on length by getting most out of the shock they are using..ie fill in the gap between spring droop and shox droop.
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If you look carefully you can see a light mark on the tiebar where the tierod end of the drag link touches on full compression.
this is the limit when not moving steer box.
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sierrajim wrote:what springs are you running in the front?
I copied this from another thread
christover1 wrote:standard front OME springs with the perches redrilled. 22mm is exactly half way between original hole and edge of the metal. (standard zook springs be OK) And roughly 1" or 25mm longer shackles. OME shoks, with top of front shocker spaced down 10mm with use of two poly bushes underneath the mount and a rubber bush on top with a locking nut. christover
I cut the outer guard about 40mm up and bent up the curved bit of inner guard and pop rivitted it back together...head light bucket only rarely catches on tyre, so I removed some of the metal and replaced with rubber sheets.
with tar paint its hardly noticeable
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christover1 wrote:If you look carefully you can see a light mark on the tiebar where the tierod end of the drag link touches on full compression. this is the limit when not moving steer box.
Is this still a problem with the extended bumpstops ??
Do you use driveshaft spacers with the 22mm froward relocaton of the front diff ??
christover1 wrote:If you look carefully you can see a light mark on the tiebar where the tierod end of the drag link touches on full compression. this is the limit when not moving steer box.
Is this still a problem with the extended bumpstops ??
Do you use driveshaft spacers with the 22mm froward relocaton of the front diff ??
It may not be a prob now I fitted the bump spcers, true.??
I didn't need a drive shaft spacer, but I believe your spline will last longer if you use one...but after moving my tcase back, I did fit one..got a mate with good tools to whip one up from 10mm steel plate...a bit more would be better.
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