Metallurgists, I need your advice.....
Is it possible to build up the diameter of an axle shaft with weld, then machine and have new splines cut and shaft re-hardened?
Will the shaft stay straight?
What will happen to the strength of the shaft?
What welding process/filler would be best?
I want the splined section of an axle to extend further along the shaft, and the stock shaft is necked down after the splines. I have no idea what the shaft material is.
Any advice? (other than don't be a tight arse and get a new shaft made....)
Cheers
Daryl
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Welding axle shafts, metalurgical advice needed
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
i would say your best bet would be tungstion(sp)
if you had it built up 2 mm more than needed have your splines cut then machine it down
if you are only extending the splines further on the shaft i cant realy see to much problem with breakage if you get a good weld...make sure you use oxy so you get good penetration tho
if you had it built up 2 mm more than needed have your splines cut then machine it down
if you are only extending the splines further on the shaft i cant realy see to much problem with breakage if you get a good weld...make sure you use oxy so you get good penetration tho
[quote="dazza30875"]whats "FAIL" mean[/quote]
[quote="fool_injected"]
Sometimes your funny Canada :D[/quote]
[quote="fool_injected"]
Sometimes your funny Canada :D[/quote]
WTF 
Bazooked is right I fear
Mad, tungsten is a metal usually used as an alloy in cutting tools, and is extremely hard and extremely brittle?? and therefore unmachinable by joe average machine shop?? And oxy welding, though cheap and simple, is not a suitable way to join steel with steel in a structural situation. Mig,Tig, inner shield, and even stick at least use either shielding gases or fluxes to prevent excessive oxidisation.
Bottom line though, forget it unless maybe you go to a performance place that does diffs and ask them
Mad, tungsten is a metal usually used as an alloy in cutting tools, and is extremely hard and extremely brittle?? and therefore unmachinable by joe average machine shop?? And oxy welding, though cheap and simple, is not a suitable way to join steel with steel in a structural situation. Mig,Tig, inner shield, and even stick at least use either shielding gases or fluxes to prevent excessive oxidisation.
Bottom line though, forget it unless maybe you go to a performance place that does diffs and ask them
There are engineering shops that build up shafts, keyways etc such as Avweld in melbourne, its a costly thing to do tho, different metal/heat treating etc.
You could ring around and get a price from them, but might work out cheaper to get a new axle.
And I struggle to believe that a built up and resplined shaft could be as strong as one made from a new billet.
You could ring around and get a price from them, but might work out cheaper to get a new axle.
And I struggle to believe that a built up and resplined shaft could be as strong as one made from a new billet.
There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots
Can be done no worries just mega $$.
plenty of special allloy electrodes that can do this. but I belive it will be far more expensive than new axle.
MIchael.
plenty of special allloy electrodes that can do this. but I belive it will be far more expensive than new axle.
MIchael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
Yes it can be done, as others have said. But it is usually only economical as a method of spline repair, not to substantially increase diameter of a shaft and then re-spline. And almost always a part made/repaired in this manner will be weaker than one made from one-piece.
Zenith engineering do a lot of this work, including for LR fairey overdrives where the teeth have stripped off the input gear. For this application they respline with a better (coarser) spline than factory, and for this application the respline lasts longer than the genuiine item. I recall they charged about $500 to do this respline (but that was a while ago).
Looks like Tasweld in towoomba do this sort of work as well.
http://www.tasweld.com.au/shafts.php3
Zenith engineering do a lot of this work, including for LR fairey overdrives where the teeth have stripped off the input gear. For this application they respline with a better (coarser) spline than factory, and for this application the respline lasts longer than the genuiine item. I recall they charged about $500 to do this respline (but that was a while ago).
Looks like Tasweld in towoomba do this sort of work as well.
http://www.tasweld.com.au/shafts.php3
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
dead right bush and isuzu, its a fact with any type of welding repair that even when the actual repair can be made stronger than original, it focuses the weak point where the original and repair meet.
Imagine for example an axle, that will, under strong torque twist a little bit too reduce shock loads over its length. When it is repaired and stronger (same goes with bending/flexing items) the weaker section takes all the shock and inevitably against or very close to the repair
Imagine for example an axle, that will, under strong torque twist a little bit too reduce shock loads over its length. When it is repaired and stronger (same goes with bending/flexing items) the weaker section takes all the shock and inevitably against or very close to the repair
When I was building my portals, as a tempory measure to make an inner long front axle shaft I welded a piece of Toyota 30 spline shaft to a piece of RangeRover 23 spline shaft,(preheated with oxy, stainless electrode). and it has held up extremely well to this day, although I have had two new shafts made I wont replace the welded one until / unless it breaks. On the other hand I have seen a few new induction hardened shafts that have been lightly scratched by lathe tools prematurely break clean through the scratch marks as if they were cut with a hacksaw, so who knows what will and will not work ? I don't.
Bill.
Bill.
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