Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
2 inch Body lift for Rodeo
Moderator: Moderators
2 inch Body lift for Rodeo
Who has done the 2 inch body lift on a Rodeo. I'm thinking of doing this on mine because I have gone as high as I can can with the suspention lift.
I'm running BFG 31 inch Muds.
Since I had the rear locker installed I seem to be able to drive myself into a lot more trouble than before and now I'm denting sills quite a lot.
If the body lift is too hard I might just make some rock sliders for protection.
Cheers,
Dave.
I'm running BFG 31 inch Muds.
Since I had the rear locker installed I seem to be able to drive myself into a lot more trouble than before and now I'm denting sills quite a lot.
If the body lift is too hard I might just make some rock sliders for protection.
Cheers,
Dave.
Just
Holden.............Rodeo
Together
Holden.............Rodeo
Together
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=28052 try this its out of the faq tech it for a jackaroo but should be fairly similar
PUT YOUR HANDS UP IF YOU WANT TO GO FASTER
RTD Racing
OFFROAD CARTEL
RTD Racing
OFFROAD CARTEL
As Mudupig meantioned I did mine to my Jackaroo but I'm sure its a pretty similar process for the Rodeo. Do your home work and look at things like:
- Body mount points (mine has 10 but yours probably has 12). Some will be captive mounts (probably the front and rear) and some will use a nut. You will have to do some digging under the carpets to get to some. Make sure that you can easily get hold of longer bolts as I had to do a little hunting around to find the right ones which lost me some time.
- Extending brackets and hoses/lines. I only had to find a longer top radiator hose for mine but you may also need to look at brake lines and fuel filler hose. Also if you can weld or know someone who can you will need to modify bumper/bullbar brackets as well as possibly another couple of brackets underneith that run from the body to one of the cross members. My gearbox and transfer case shifters thankfully didnt need modifying but yours may need to be extended or at least bent to clear the console.
Have a go, Its not that difficult. Just be prepared and things should go fairly smoothly. You should get a pretty good idea of whats involved from my webshots pics...
http://community.webshots.com/album/218799662eyIUNQ
Cheers,
Noel
[/url]
- Body mount points (mine has 10 but yours probably has 12). Some will be captive mounts (probably the front and rear) and some will use a nut. You will have to do some digging under the carpets to get to some. Make sure that you can easily get hold of longer bolts as I had to do a little hunting around to find the right ones which lost me some time.
- Extending brackets and hoses/lines. I only had to find a longer top radiator hose for mine but you may also need to look at brake lines and fuel filler hose. Also if you can weld or know someone who can you will need to modify bumper/bullbar brackets as well as possibly another couple of brackets underneith that run from the body to one of the cross members. My gearbox and transfer case shifters thankfully didnt need modifying but yours may need to be extended or at least bent to clear the console.
Have a go, Its not that difficult. Just be prepared and things should go fairly smoothly. You should get a pretty good idea of whats involved from my webshots pics...
http://community.webshots.com/album/218799662eyIUNQ
Cheers,
Noel
[/url]
1992 3.2L V6 SWB Holden Jackaroo
2008 3.0L TD Holden Rodeo S/cab Trayback
2008 3.0L TD Holden Rodeo S/cab Trayback
piss easy, me and my bro did it in half a day, total cost of around 150 buckaroonies, laythed up the nylon blocks myself, got some longer bolts. a couple of tray bolts are welded on, get an oxy onto them though.
85 LWB w. FRP Canopy
Ca18det conversion in progress, Vit PS, RUF,
6.5:1's, 33x12.5 Bfg's, custom front and rear bars.
Ca18det conversion in progress, Vit PS, RUF,
6.5:1's, 33x12.5 Bfg's, custom front and rear bars.
Thanks guys. I wish you lot lived around here.
I'm guessing the tray will be easy and I did count the number of body mounts, I think there were only 4 each side not counting the tray. My main concern was the bullbar height, radiator/fan alignment, steering shaft and gearshift. I read the article on lifting a MU in 4wd monthly and they had problems with the gear levers but I think they did a 3" lift.
I know Roedeo did a 2" on is Rodeo. Where is he?????
Cheers,
Dave.
I'm guessing the tray will be easy and I did count the number of body mounts, I think there were only 4 each side not counting the tray. My main concern was the bullbar height, radiator/fan alignment, steering shaft and gearshift. I read the article on lifting a MU in 4wd monthly and they had problems with the gear levers but I think they did a 3" lift.
I know Roedeo did a 2" on is Rodeo. Where is he?????
Cheers,
Dave.
Just
Holden.............Rodeo
Together
Holden.............Rodeo
Together
1 Ton Rodeo wrote:I know Roedeo did a 2" on is Rodeo. Where is he?????
I'm fairly sure that he did a 2in lift and didn't have to modify anything. Why not PM him or check out his build up thread on http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/inde ... eadid=4441
It's a long but fairly informative read.
Land Rover Discovery series 1 V8
bullbar height you can modify after lift is done hard to say how with not knowing the bar you have
you should be able to remove the bottom half of the radiator shroud(spelling) and fan wont hit
loosen off the steerind knuckle to allow for movement
gear shift will have to wait till after lift to see if you need to do anything about it
other than that keep checking all your line ie. brake breathers battery radiator hose etc you should right maybe try seach other sections like nissan for some more hints etc most 2 inch lifts are fairly the same cheers
you should be able to remove the bottom half of the radiator shroud(spelling) and fan wont hit
loosen off the steerind knuckle to allow for movement
gear shift will have to wait till after lift to see if you need to do anything about it
other than that keep checking all your line ie. brake breathers battery radiator hose etc you should right maybe try seach other sections like nissan for some more hints etc most 2 inch lifts are fairly the same cheers
PUT YOUR HANDS UP IF YOU WANT TO GO FASTER
RTD Racing
OFFROAD CARTEL
RTD Racing
OFFROAD CARTEL
Temporary Australian
It can be a pain in the ass doing the lift if your body mount bolts are rusted to any degree...... there are no captive bolts and there are 14 mounts on the chassis...... i left 2 out because i didn't order enough blocks. I didn't have to modify anything on mine to make them fit, i did however bolt the blocks between the chassis and the body without the rubbers, which i still put underneath. You should make sure there are crush tubes between the lower rubbers and the lift block.. this will give you some dampening. doing it that way i only ended up with about 1 1/2" body lift....... which is still better than a kick in the pants Adding blocks with the rubbers will be different..... you will need to keep an eye on the steering shaft, and you will need to bend your 4WD gear stick. mine hits now and will sometimes come out of low range if i hit a bump going down hill (too lazy to bend it) I had my bullbar mounts modified to lift it 2" thats about all..... fuel filler won't be any problem, the rubber hose has more than enough in it to cope.
hope this helps...... don't hesitate to email me if you need any help
hope this helps...... don't hesitate to email me if you need any help
There is no "I" in Team, but there are 5 in Individual Brilliance
Temporary Australian
1 Ton Rodeo wrote:Thanks mate, I'll have to catch up with you at one of the upcoming drives and have a chat and check out your rig. (perhaps over a couple of beers around a campfire )
Thanks for the help.
Dave.
then maybe i oughta put ya down the the Barrington trip in April?
There is no "I" in Team, but there are 5 in Individual Brilliance
Temporary Australian
1 Ton Rodeo wrote:I'd love to go but will be on my way back from Alice Springs. Are you doing a recce up that way soon or any trips sooner?
Cheers,
Dave.
did one reccie last weekend http://www.4wdlinks.com.au/gallery/barrington_reccie And i'm going up next weekend to check out another track or two, and then i have one more reccie up around Stewarts Brook which will be part of the trip up. Through Stoney Ridge and Cuneens Gap.
There is no "I" in Team, but there are 5 in Individual Brilliance
here you can see a few shots about a TFS with 2" body lift.
http://autopro.dnsalias.org/gallery/vie ... me=album13
cheers
http://autopro.dnsalias.org/gallery/vie ... me=album13
cheers
`93 TFS55 4JB1T teralowed
Temporary Australian
Re: 2 inch Body lift for Rodeo
you only need to undo a couple of harness clips underneath from memory. Radiator hoses are fine, but you will have to chop the bottom out of your fan cowling if you are not going to drop the radiator. Even the fuel filler hose is long enough to cope.
There is no "I" in Team, but there are 5 in Individual Brilliance
Re: 2 inch Body lift for Rodeo
well im just doing my body lift now, last night i thought id do the easy part first, the tray. Well it turned out to be not so easy, i removed all the nuts, well, its all gone to shit, last 2 bolts up the cab end are welded in, they are in a U channel so i cant cut the weld with a grinder, i contacted someone who had already done theirs and they said they hit them with an oxy but i dont have access to an oxy and i think it would be hard not to distroy the U channel anyway.
This leaves me with 2 options, cut the thread off and drill out the centre, which will still have the head of the bolt on top which is not desirable, or what ive chosen to do which is use a rotery birr (like a dremil) and grind the head of the bolt off which is really slow going. So yeh what was suppose to be a short job on just the tray has left me
Tonight will be the test, im hoping to have them out by tonight or there will be more cursing! lol
This leaves me with 2 options, cut the thread off and drill out the centre, which will still have the head of the bolt on top which is not desirable, or what ive chosen to do which is use a rotery birr (like a dremil) and grind the head of the bolt off which is really slow going. So yeh what was suppose to be a short job on just the tray has left me
Tonight will be the test, im hoping to have them out by tonight or there will be more cursing! lol
tyres arent floaties
Re: 2 inch Body lift for Rodeo
PM timma on here. we did his jackeroo and his old mans rodeo. We used a dremel for the tray bolts.
He might be able to give you more info.
Welchy
He might be able to give you more info.
Welchy
97 TD42 Y60 Coil Cab. 2" Body lift. 4" Spring 35" Maxis Creepies, 33" Claws, F and R lockers,Tube winch Bar, Custom Tray, Hi Mount with 6HP Motor, Sill cut, MTQ turbo
Gladstone4wdclub.com.au
Gladstone4wdclub.com.au
Re: 2 inch Body lift for Rodeo
When I did my body lift I used a dremel type tool on those bolts.
However I didn't grind away the hole head. I just cut down through the weld on either side of the bolt head. It was a bit painful to do the weld you can't see but it wasn't too bad. Although I remember swearing at it a bit.
However I didn't grind away the hole head. I just cut down through the weld on either side of the bolt head. It was a bit painful to do the weld you can't see but it wasn't too bad. Although I remember swearing at it a bit.
Land Rover Discovery series 1 V8
Re: 2 inch Body lift for Rodeo
for anyone trying to attempt this, to save welding the bolts back in, I held my bolts in with a cold chissel while i did up the nut, as for the rear mount i slipped a 10mm bolt into the channel so it wedged itself in between the side of the channel and the nut. i didnt like the idea of welding a nyloc to a bit of plate as the nylon would of melted.
Deep sockets are a must, i got stuck because the socket size was different from my old to new bolts, so i used my spark plug socket as much as i could but i cant get any more out of it.
Deep sockets are a must, i got stuck because the socket size was different from my old to new bolts, so i used my spark plug socket as much as i could but i cant get any more out of it.
tyres arent floaties
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests