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Snorkel Attachment in MQ

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

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Snorkel Attachment in MQ

Post by Shark »

Hey guys finally got around to plumbing up my snorkel properly but im not 100% sure wether i have done the right thing. I have removed the black cyclone filter and and plumbed it directly to the large round filter but am a little worried as to wether its going to get enough filtration before it hits my engine??? Also if its bucketing down whats there to stop water getting sucked in by the snorkel and delivering water straight into my engine??

Could i get some sponge or something and use that aircleaner oil abd make my own kind of air precleaner??

Any ideas/opinions??


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Post by GOT MUD »

what did you do to get the snorkle ie.round to plumb in to the filter ie. oblong sorry its not an answer but iam at the same point as you in that iam STILL trying to plumb it up :?
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Post by Shark »

i just made a hole underneath the big blue air cleaner and made an attachment to fit from the snorkel to that hole.

Cmon guys i dont want to damage my car, is it going to work??

When you stick your hand in front of the air intake on the snorkel you can feel and hear the air rushing in.

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Post by V8Patrol »

Many different makes n models have a "water and grit" bowl arangement fitted to the precleaners for this very reason, now that you have removed the precleaner you should consider making one for the actual aircleaner itself.

The "bowl" doesnt need to be overly large ( 1/2 a coke can is plenty ), this bowl need to be fitted to a region on your aircleaner in such a way that it on the OUTSIDE part of the actual filter, not on the inner side ( dont laugh but I've seen that opps before ! ).
Once you have the bowl setup correctly, drill a hole in the bottom and fit a rubber "one way valve".
The valves can be sourced from wreckers and should be cheap as chips, after all its only the size of your thumb !
This valve looks like a tube that has been flatened on the end. It allows water/large debris/etc to go out but wont allow water etc back in, you can always forget about the valve & just have a hole for drainage but the first river xing will remind you that you should have fitted one......

Another option for better filtration would include an additional foam filter, by cutting a section of foam out that covers the area on the filter directly infront of where the air actually enters the aircleaner box ( make it about an inch longer either side ) then soak the foam in oil.... this will get much of the nastys before they hit the paper fillement.

Another option may be to remove the paper filter all together and fitan "foam oil filter", these are simply a circle of foam that slip over a frame and the foam is soaked in engine oil. The oil catches dust and water very well but becomes less efficient very quickly, as it clogs up obviously air flow is restricted and engine performance drops accordingly.
The big advantage of these filters is that they can be cleaned easilly in the "field" by simply washing the foam out with petrol ( or diesel ) and re oiling it !. With regular cleaning they will last a long time.
Foam filters are used predominatly in speedway cars and other racing sports ....... even gokarts use the foam setup ! ..... regular cleaning is a MUST DO THING.

The pre cleaner filtration system removed most of the shyte before it gets to the actual aircleaner, its size means that it has a fairly long "life" in the rig.....in removing it you will place extra "strain" on the aircleaner so more often changes would be wise especially after dusty or water soaking trips.

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Post by GOT MUD »

not trying to be smart but am curious to ask how 4b with only one type of filter manage not to get stuff in motors etc
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Post by V8Patrol »

How d phuck would I know :D

but just about every diesel motor be it 4x4 throught to MACK trucks has a prefilter

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Post by turps »

V8Patrol wrote:How d phuck would I know :D

but just about every diesel motor be it 4x4 throught to MACK trucks has a prefilter

Kingy


Toys dont. But they do have a nice big filter. With a good water/crap trap at the bottom. Also having the air exit via the lid also means you have to suck about a 1lt of water in before things get real nasty.
(there had to be one good thing about them and this is it).
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Post by GOT MUD »

turps wrote:
V8Patrol wrote:How d phuck would I know :D

but just about every diesel motor be it 4x4 throught to MACK trucks has a prefilter

Kingy
:roll:

Toys dont. But they do have a nice big filter. With a good water/crap trap at the bottom. Also having the air exit via the lid also means you have to suck about a 1lt of water in before things get real nasty.
(there had to be one good thing about them and this is it).
yeah this is what meant but you answered it aswell ;) another Q i have is do the guys who put v8 still run the precleaner set up :?:
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Post by turps »

muduppig wrote: another Q i have is do the guys who put v8 still run the precleaner set up :?:


The ones I have seen (and that aint many). The factory air intake is given the boot.
The aircleaners out of 80series cruisers seem to fit in well(turbo diesel/petrols, also V8's). Just dont use an intake hose of a commodore from aircleaner to turbo, it gets sucked closed. Also seen donaldsan aircleaners used (VH45).
Bang for bucks, if you want to change aircleaners for something better, I think the toy one is a pretty good setup, approx 3" inlet and outlet and a big tall filter.Also relatively cheap.
I would like to go this way when I fit my turbo. But dont think the coin will stretch that far. So I am just going to use the GU aircleaner (and change it lots).
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Post by jtraf »

Personally I would have kept the Pre Cleaner as it has the water trap\ dust trap at the bottom of the filter housing.....

My MK with snorkel always had dead bugs and dust from driving in the bottom of the precleaner.......Pre cleaner is also cheaper to replace cause you can use a Jap truck filter from Truck supplier for about $15 dollars....

Pre cleaner also has the cyclone effect so air comes in hits the plastic shield and the vanes in the filter spin all the rubbish to the side and into the collector bin....rubbish and water and when you stop the water vein opens and lets water out....

Remember diesel don't like dirty air......the top mounted cleaner wont filter enough dust out and if you go on a very dusty outing dust will get into motor and fuc& it up very quickly.............

For daily driving I use to remove the large top cleaner filter and run around and have a little power gain but offroad especially when I knew it was going to be dusty I would always replace filter...

You would be amazed at how much dust would get through the pre cleaner and how much dust it would catch in the bottom tray...

If you love you engine ensure that it has clean air......replace pre cleaner is my call or remove the main top one cause it won't filter as well as the pre cleaner if you want to run one filter...

cheers

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Post by GOT MUD »

jtraf wrote:
If you love you engine ensure that it has clean air......replace pre cleaner is my call or remove the main top one cause it won't filter as well as the pre cleaner if you want to run one filter...

cheers

James
this what i originally wanted to do and just have the precleaner but between having to find somewhere for the breather that comes of the bottom to go and everybody saying it was bad to get rid of it ive left it in but now there is no room for the precleaner while trying to plumb in the snorkle i wouldve prefered to keep both but it does not all fit and like ive said in the past i cant win :roll:

by the way i would like to apologise to shark for hijacking his thread :oops:
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Post by Screwy »

I honestly wouldnt run the pre cleaner by itself.

i also wouldnt run the main filter by itself either......

both were there for a reason from factory on a factory motor.... :roll:
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Post by GOT MUD »

i spoke to 3 different 4b shops today and they told me it would be ok to loose the precleaner but would have to use a high quality fiter in the main that you can oil
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Post by Cossie »

V8Patrol wrote:Once you have the bowl setup correctly, drill a hole in the bottom and fit a rubber "one way valve".
The valves can be sourced from wreckers and should be cheap as chips, after all its only the size of your thumb !
This valve looks like a tube that has been flatened on the end. It allows water/large debris/etc to go out but wont allow water etc back in, you can always forget about the valve & just have a hole for drainage but the first river xing will remind you that you should have fitted one......


Is anyone totally convinced that this 'valve' is actually watertight?
anyone left one on and put their rig far enough into the drink to test it?
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Post by Shark »

Mudupig i got told the exact same thing by all the fourby shops over here. So im gonna get an k and n and go from there. Worst case scenario i get my v8 sooner than later :D

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Post by Screwy »

Shark wrote:Mudupig i got told the exact same thing by all the fourby shops over here. So im gonna get an k and n and go from there. Worst case scenario i get my v8 sooner than later :D

MArc


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Post by GOT MUD »

i looked up the k&n site to find that they dont make one anymore but you get one very close to size then i looker up unifilter and they make one to suit spot on they are around 47 bucks not to bad eh this is a stage one type but at the moment i am trying to suss out if you can use the stage 2 system that gives better filtration unifilter also have a precleaner type sock that gose in the top of the snorkle they it will catch up to 95% of crap so i am going with the unifilter one and see how we go dont know about the sock but :D
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