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6.5 Chev Turbo Diesel
The 6.2-6.5 is a great motor . Here in the US everybody a lot of peoples are hating GM diesel engines, but 99% of those persons never owned one !
Most 6.2-6.5 are going bad because nowbody knows how to do the maintanance ! Also 90% of the replaced heads are still perfect , if they see a small crack they replace them ! Small cracks are normal (look intio a gm book) and to 90% they are in the pre combustion chamber ! But they replace the whole head !If the glow plugs are bad , they break em of and push them into the cylinder ! the next thing that happens is that you are getting a bent valve or a seized cylinder ! They think GM used an gas engine and converted it to diesel ! Realy here in the US all repair shops trying to destroy those engines ! Most GM diesel truck I bought never got an oil change or what ever ! I am fixing a 95 6.5 right know , the engine has 225k miles and a bad piston . The piston is damaged because the injector is clogged . The owner said it`s just a piece of GM crap , I told him that`s the fault of a crappy owner ( he got real mad) ! This engine never got any maitanance ! I love the GM diesel and I never had a single problem I have a Suburban with 350k miles and it is the first engine , it still runs perfect. I get 6.2 most times between 50$ US and 250$ US. 6.5 most times are expensive , but if you wait you can find em cheap too . You have to wait until a GM hater has one and then you get a 6.5 for 300$.
I had to write so much crap because I cant stand it anymore that everybody here in the US bashes the GM diesel engines , and I hope that the Australians respect the GM (Detroit) diesel as a good engine ! BECAUSE they are GOOD engines !!
Most 6.2-6.5 are going bad because nowbody knows how to do the maintanance ! Also 90% of the replaced heads are still perfect , if they see a small crack they replace them ! Small cracks are normal (look intio a gm book) and to 90% they are in the pre combustion chamber ! But they replace the whole head !If the glow plugs are bad , they break em of and push them into the cylinder ! the next thing that happens is that you are getting a bent valve or a seized cylinder ! They think GM used an gas engine and converted it to diesel ! Realy here in the US all repair shops trying to destroy those engines ! Most GM diesel truck I bought never got an oil change or what ever ! I am fixing a 95 6.5 right know , the engine has 225k miles and a bad piston . The piston is damaged because the injector is clogged . The owner said it`s just a piece of GM crap , I told him that`s the fault of a crappy owner ( he got real mad) ! This engine never got any maitanance ! I love the GM diesel and I never had a single problem I have a Suburban with 350k miles and it is the first engine , it still runs perfect. I get 6.2 most times between 50$ US and 250$ US. 6.5 most times are expensive , but if you wait you can find em cheap too . You have to wait until a GM hater has one and then you get a 6.5 for 300$.
I had to write so much crap because I cant stand it anymore that everybody here in the US bashes the GM diesel engines , and I hope that the Australians respect the GM (Detroit) diesel as a good engine ! BECAUSE they are GOOD engines !!
What Killeraxle said!
I agree totally. Well said. I have also found that people who bag the 6.2-6.5 know nothing about them or have not even seen them in a vehicle let alone know from experience how they perform. Funnily enough, people that I have done a conversion for, and people that own them love em!!!
They are a reliable and very strong engine.
I agree totally. Well said. I have also found that people who bag the 6.2-6.5 know nothing about them or have not even seen them in a vehicle let alone know from experience how they perform. Funnily enough, people that I have done a conversion for, and people that own them love em!!!
They are a reliable and very strong engine.
Re: 6.5 Chev Turbo Diesel
the engine will be good for 200,000km,
Is that how long there good for? Not very many clicks? Whats the go there.....
Is that how long there good for? Not very many clicks? Whats the go there.....
Re: 6.5 Chev Turbo Diesel
Camshaft1 wrote:the engine will be good for 200,000km,
Is that how long there good for? Not very many clicks? Whats the go there.....
That's exacly what I was gona ask.
Engine of that size should push any 4wd for the best part of 1 mil.km.
GU III,3.0 di
ah ha!
Killer axle said he has an original on 350,000 miles - thats like 560000kms off an original motor!!! You can buy complete US army trucks from Army surplus and shut down military bases for like $2000 USD and they only have like 40,000miles on em with Massive gearboxes, New Process transfer cases and dirty Dana and Corporate 14 bolt diffs... That was for a truck that they jump started and drove away = Even if you brought it over with parts form the states (dismantle it partly as then you have it for parts and not whole car tax rates according to a mate in the industry) and complied it and then paid for RHD Conversion you would still have a bit of money left from $12000 I recon.
Diesels will last years if you service them and drive them in the correct manner... if you don't then don't be surprised if they die. There is a local down my way with a V8 diesel and nissan cabstar in an MQ SWB patrol... MONSTA!!!!! Can't wait to see it off road!
Enought of my rambling.... mind you - the US pays so little for their wheelin gear - I get Petersens Off Road when ever I can and the prices they pay are sad.... Specials of 38 inch boggers for $320USD or the fact that tehy can rock up to tire place and buy a set of 46 - yes 46 inch Claws... off the shelf - wish Bob Jane would do that here...... drool - imagine a) a truck with 46 inch claws and b) a truck that could take em as far as power and height goes.... Saw a bronco with 37 or something inch claws in the city - PHAT!!!!
I recon it would be a good conversion - like most things in life - you look after it and it will look after you.
Mk
Diesels will last years if you service them and drive them in the correct manner... if you don't then don't be surprised if they die. There is a local down my way with a V8 diesel and nissan cabstar in an MQ SWB patrol... MONSTA!!!!! Can't wait to see it off road!
Enought of my rambling.... mind you - the US pays so little for their wheelin gear - I get Petersens Off Road when ever I can and the prices they pay are sad.... Specials of 38 inch boggers for $320USD or the fact that tehy can rock up to tire place and buy a set of 46 - yes 46 inch Claws... off the shelf - wish Bob Jane would do that here...... drool - imagine a) a truck with 46 inch claws and b) a truck that could take em as far as power and height goes.... Saw a bronco with 37 or something inch claws in the city - PHAT!!!!
I recon it would be a good conversion - like most things in life - you look after it and it will look after you.
Mk
MQ/MK Parts for sale!!!! See for sale section!
Hi,
Just to let you guys know that I swaped the engines, G/boxes and T/cases as follows:
- in the GQ MWB comp car: ex RD28T. Sold the engine + gear box.
- the daily driver TD42 LWB: took off the TD42, gear box, T/case aAND the PTO winch. I put everything in the comp car.
- the comp car has now the TD42, with 5.1 ring and pinion, 37" Boogers.
- the daily driver: I bought a military spec 6.2 V8 Chevy, with TH400 and NP 208 t/case. I install it. I run on 4.625 ring and pinion with 35 tires. Double 2.5 exhaust...what a sound...btw..
Conclusion:
- the comp car: I 'll install a Vortech 2 compressor that I bought, because I need more power.
- the daily driver: LOT LOT of torque....Missing a 4th gear...or a 5th gear...Or maybe to change back to the 4.11 ring and pinion.
Today, after driving in the last 2 weeks with the V8, I drove the comp car for a day. What a diffrence....
I will try to put another V8 in the comp car, with a auto trans too....
Regards, Gabriel
Just to let you guys know that I swaped the engines, G/boxes and T/cases as follows:
- in the GQ MWB comp car: ex RD28T. Sold the engine + gear box.
- the daily driver TD42 LWB: took off the TD42, gear box, T/case aAND the PTO winch. I put everything in the comp car.
- the comp car has now the TD42, with 5.1 ring and pinion, 37" Boogers.
- the daily driver: I bought a military spec 6.2 V8 Chevy, with TH400 and NP 208 t/case. I install it. I run on 4.625 ring and pinion with 35 tires. Double 2.5 exhaust...what a sound...btw..
Conclusion:
- the comp car: I 'll install a Vortech 2 compressor that I bought, because I need more power.
- the daily driver: LOT LOT of torque....Missing a 4th gear...or a 5th gear...Or maybe to change back to the 4.11 ring and pinion.
Today, after driving in the last 2 weeks with the V8, I drove the comp car for a day. What a diffrence....
I will try to put another V8 in the comp car, with a auto trans too....
Regards, Gabriel
GQ MWB 105 ", DID Mitsubishi engine with big turbo, fiber glass body, Boogger 38.5/11/16, 2x8274, 5 link front, triangulated 4-link rear, SAW 14" and 16" coil-overs, , 5.1 r&p.
Its not a 6.5, its a 6.2. The 6.5 turbo can't be installed so easy due to the fact that the turbo is located on the driver side and there is not enough room due to the chasis and the metal you have there...
The 6.2 is just fine. I keep everything, except the air con compresor (that was not on the engine, as the engine is a military one, so no air con). The steering pump is AMAZING vs the Nissan one. Much easier to turn the wheels...
The vacuum pump I used the existing Chevy one, that normaly control the gear box. But you can install just a simple tube to connect the pump to the brake booster and that's it.
The gear box (auto). You have to fabricate (but in the US you can buy it for a chap price...the transport cost more then the piece) a metal plate to attach the cable operated shifter. Not so difficult, but not so easy (to work properly you have to think it to can fine tune the lenght of the cable).
Then, just the normal stuff: the drive-shafts must be manufactured, the T/case must have a stick to operate it, etc.
Its not such a very difficult job. I the US I heared that this swap is one of the most easier ones (the 6.2 or the 6.5 diesel is one of the most simple engines available).
For any questions, just let me know.
Regards, gabriel
The 6.2 is just fine. I keep everything, except the air con compresor (that was not on the engine, as the engine is a military one, so no air con). The steering pump is AMAZING vs the Nissan one. Much easier to turn the wheels...
The vacuum pump I used the existing Chevy one, that normaly control the gear box. But you can install just a simple tube to connect the pump to the brake booster and that's it.
The gear box (auto). You have to fabricate (but in the US you can buy it for a chap price...the transport cost more then the piece) a metal plate to attach the cable operated shifter. Not so difficult, but not so easy (to work properly you have to think it to can fine tune the lenght of the cable).
Then, just the normal stuff: the drive-shafts must be manufactured, the T/case must have a stick to operate it, etc.
Its not such a very difficult job. I the US I heared that this swap is one of the most easier ones (the 6.2 or the 6.5 diesel is one of the most simple engines available).
For any questions, just let me know.
Regards, gabriel
GQ MWB 105 ", DID Mitsubishi engine with big turbo, fiber glass body, Boogger 38.5/11/16, 2x8274, 5 link front, triangulated 4-link rear, SAW 14" and 16" coil-overs, , 5.1 r&p.
Hi,
Ref consumption: I can't give you an exact number, but I think I have something like between 15 to 18 l/100km, but:
- I have an auto gear box (TH400, 3 speed).
- The ring and pinion raport is 4.625...
- tyres: 35/12.5/15
So the engine runs at higher rpm then normal, which means more fuel used.
If you go that engine, but with manual gear box, I would expect something like 12-14 l/100km.
On the other hand, my ex RD28T NEVER has less then 14 l/100km!! And with 35" tyres, no less then 16l/100km....So, I consider that the fuel consumption on the V8 is more then OK!!
Ref the money:
This engine, complete (with alternator, power steering pump, etc), the gear box auto and the t/case (NP208) I bought its for 2000 euros.
Then, the job I did it myself, in a friend of mine' garage...So, the labour is close to 0 (which is not truth, if you consider the time spend...).
Then, for as lot of small details (the oil and water senders - must be replaced with Nissan GQ type, otherwise the dash clockes will not indicate acurately), (the gear box shifter, etc, etc), you should expect about 300 euros. Including the labour and machinery for the custom made drive shafts (which I recomand you to have it as big as you can, at least the rear one. The front one can't be bigger in diameter then the Nissan one, due to the fact that it will touch the cross member and if not, it will touch the exhaust - if you will put the double exhaust ...which I recommand you..)
BTW, the exhaust was preaty expansive: about 600 euros, for Borla stainless steel all around.
But: the job in itself is not very complicated at all!! I mean, with just normal mechanical knowings, is a preatty "straight in" job!!
I hope it helps!!
Regards, gabriel
PS: I see you are from Croatia. Do you gona participate in the Croatia Trophy? I would like to, but the entry fee is...prohibitive!! I mean 1200 euros...a lot of money looks to me...
Here, we have 2 trophys: the Transilvania Adveture Trophy and the Dracula Trophy, 7 days each. Both are hard core competitions and both cost about 350 euros/each...but yes, I would like to participate in your trophy!
If you need any advice, just let me know. Once the 6.2 V8 transplant is done, I have a much clearer ideea about the job.
Ref consumption: I can't give you an exact number, but I think I have something like between 15 to 18 l/100km, but:
- I have an auto gear box (TH400, 3 speed).
- The ring and pinion raport is 4.625...
- tyres: 35/12.5/15
So the engine runs at higher rpm then normal, which means more fuel used.
If you go that engine, but with manual gear box, I would expect something like 12-14 l/100km.
On the other hand, my ex RD28T NEVER has less then 14 l/100km!! And with 35" tyres, no less then 16l/100km....So, I consider that the fuel consumption on the V8 is more then OK!!
Ref the money:
This engine, complete (with alternator, power steering pump, etc), the gear box auto and the t/case (NP208) I bought its for 2000 euros.
Then, the job I did it myself, in a friend of mine' garage...So, the labour is close to 0 (which is not truth, if you consider the time spend...).
Then, for as lot of small details (the oil and water senders - must be replaced with Nissan GQ type, otherwise the dash clockes will not indicate acurately), (the gear box shifter, etc, etc), you should expect about 300 euros. Including the labour and machinery for the custom made drive shafts (which I recomand you to have it as big as you can, at least the rear one. The front one can't be bigger in diameter then the Nissan one, due to the fact that it will touch the cross member and if not, it will touch the exhaust - if you will put the double exhaust ...which I recommand you..)
BTW, the exhaust was preaty expansive: about 600 euros, for Borla stainless steel all around.
But: the job in itself is not very complicated at all!! I mean, with just normal mechanical knowings, is a preatty "straight in" job!!
I hope it helps!!
Regards, gabriel
PS: I see you are from Croatia. Do you gona participate in the Croatia Trophy? I would like to, but the entry fee is...prohibitive!! I mean 1200 euros...a lot of money looks to me...
Here, we have 2 trophys: the Transilvania Adveture Trophy and the Dracula Trophy, 7 days each. Both are hard core competitions and both cost about 350 euros/each...but yes, I would like to participate in your trophy!
If you need any advice, just let me know. Once the 6.2 V8 transplant is done, I have a much clearer ideea about the job.
GQ MWB 105 ", DID Mitsubishi engine with big turbo, fiber glass body, Boogger 38.5/11/16, 2x8274, 5 link front, triangulated 4-link rear, SAW 14" and 16" coil-overs, , 5.1 r&p.
Bringing an old topic alive again.
I had a 6.5 Turbo Diesel Tahoe for some time. Averaged 12.5 ltr/100km with 32's, auto, chipped to around 250hp and a not so light right foot.
The engine impressed me with a good low end grunch and responsivness (<- is that a word?).
I would buy one again in a heartbeat but road tax is killing them here in Germany (~2500$/yr) since we're taxed by engine size and Diesels get the highest tax rates.
The Tahoe came stock with the 4L80E, but would a TH700R4 hold up to the 6.5 in a GQ ?
Could be a nice engine upgrade for my GQ when the 4.3 Chev in there dies some day.
I had a 6.5 Turbo Diesel Tahoe for some time. Averaged 12.5 ltr/100km with 32's, auto, chipped to around 250hp and a not so light right foot.
The engine impressed me with a good low end grunch and responsivness (<- is that a word?).
I would buy one again in a heartbeat but road tax is killing them here in Germany (~2500$/yr) since we're taxed by engine size and Diesels get the highest tax rates.
The Tahoe came stock with the 4L80E, but would a TH700R4 hold up to the 6.5 in a GQ ?
Could be a nice engine upgrade for my GQ when the 4.3 Chev in there dies some day.
'04 Nissan Terrano 3.0Di ZD30 *pimped*, some Zooks & '87 GQ
hey there. . woudl you have nay contact details of were u the conversion was done ?
Maggot4x4 wrote:I have a 6.5L Side Mount Turbo in my 80, it is with the Toyota 4 SPeed Auto.
It is a great motor and I have had no problems with it. I bought the truck with the conversion already done by Linquip, It came with a full instruction manual for the motor andparts list all supplied in a folder with the Linquip sticker on it.
I went on a trip from Sydney to QLD recently and I got ave 11L / 100km fuel economy and when I called into Linquip to get a new acc cable, the serviced it free of charge.
One point if runing it behind an auto, make sure you get the kickdown adjusted otherwise it tends to kick down about 2000rpm, right when you want to use the massive torque.
Off road the thing is FANTASTIC!!!!
I have 37" MTR's / 38" Swampers and I'm still running 4.1's in the diffs, other than a little quick downhill, everywhere else I couldn't be happier with how it goes.
If you opt for a manual, be prepared for only having a 3sp gearbox, first and second are almost useless unless towing.
As far as parts are concerned, I service it myself and have had no probs with getting all the stuff from my local repco.
Hope this helps.
Re: 6.5 Chev Turbo Diesel
you will get more power out of a td4.2 if you set it up right
i have mine pushing 760nm with 35's and those adjustments are set very tame.
i have mine pushing 760nm with 35's and those adjustments are set very tame.
Re: 6.5 Chev Turbo Diesel
I've had my Brunswick installed 6.5 in my gu for 2 years now and have covered 70,000 k's so far.
Not one problem at all,expensive conversion yes,worthit ,definantly.
If i did it again the only thing i would change is to not opt for the tallest diff ratio I could,
Car ran economically on 33's but on 35's I pretty much don't use 5th gear for anything now as at 110kph the engine lugs and economy goes out the window.
Cheers
Not one problem at all,expensive conversion yes,worthit ,definantly.
If i did it again the only thing i would change is to not opt for the tallest diff ratio I could,
Car ran economically on 33's but on 35's I pretty much don't use 5th gear for anything now as at 110kph the engine lugs and economy goes out the window.
Cheers
2002 GU Wagon
6.5 chev diesel.
lifted 3'' front,4'' rear
1'' body lift.
adj panhards front + rear.
adj swaybar link pins.
35'' MTZ
Long range tanks.
twin swing away carrier.
3 x lightforce xgt.
6.5 chev diesel.
lifted 3'' front,4'' rear
1'' body lift.
adj panhards front + rear.
adj swaybar link pins.
35'' MTZ
Long range tanks.
twin swing away carrier.
3 x lightforce xgt.
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