TD 42 clutch problem...bizare..

[Gabriel]

Hi,

A strange problem: the clutch, after pushing the pedal tens of times, is not working anymore. I mean that the clutch sleep, as if the clutch disc is fucked. But its not, its new actualy (5000 km)..
Well, if I unscrew the air hose of the clutch circuit (the one that is on the firewall and its used to take the air out of the circuit), there is clutch liquid that goes at a little pressure, bleed just a litle bit (with the pedal free). And...the clutch works very well!! After tens of pedal pushing, again the same problem!!! Looks like there is presure left behind the master cilinder...

I was thinking that the liquid became too hot, I protected all the clutch lines withh special race material.

I was thinking the seals are gone. I replaced ALL the clutch internal elements and seals, genuine Nissan parts.

I was thinking the liquid is not the proper one. I flushed the circuit and I put ELF special race clutch liquid.

...end the problem is still there!!! WTF?!?!

Appart the fact the clutch booster is not working anymore, but I can live with it...

Any ideas?!? All I can do is to change the pump core (that I checked and is like new) and the cilinder core (good as well). Everything else is changed.

Thanks guys,

Gabriel

[Not For Highway Use]

If you have an earlier model they came with a bleed line. Easy fix. The flexible line from the slave cylinder to the chassis rail can be ordered from Nissan without provision for the bleed line at the junction. This will solve the problem. Also you can replace the master cylinder with a non booster type. These work better at high RPM and aren't heavy to use.

Good Luck

[Gabriel]

So, your opinion is that the rubber tube between the cylinder and the pump can be the responsible, isn't?! I'll try to find it and to replace it.
The other type of the pump (without booster): what is the difference between the two types?

Thanks, gabriel

[Not For Highway Use]

If you replace the "rubber tube" with one that doesn't have the provision for the bleed line I think it will fix the problem. The master cylinder non booster has shorter input shaft and works better at high RPM

[Gabriel]

Well, let's see if I understood corectly:

- the "rubber tube" is the type which has provision for bleed...My bleeding tube is starting from the pump itself, by a "T" piece, not from the rubber tube that connect the pump with the sleeve cylinder...
Should I replace it anyway?

Thks, G