suspension lift, body lift ??

[corkhead]

Hi guys,

what is the exact difference between these two - through reading i see there is not much to a body lift, do you need to do both.

What are the gains from doing both.

I have a NF pajero LWB and need bigger tyres, have 31's at the mo and just am belly sliding on any half decent ruts.

Really after more clearance. Also can you get after market wheel flares/guards and wheel spacers ... whats involved with this (want to widen my wheels and wheel track).

I have a million things i want to do ....just the time and money to do it :(


This car is only a basher - it drives me to work (2km trip) each day but apart from that goes to the bush and gets bogged each weekend

any input would be great !

cheers

Corkhead

[grumpy221]

but apart from that goes to the bush and gets bogged each weekend

any input would be great !

cheers

Corkhead

Crank the front torsion bars up (or get heavy duty)then get yourself a rear locker, then a front locker (you'll be amazed by the difference just a rear makes) then think about body lift and rear springs .....GET Some Muddies

[corkhead]

sorry i should have listed what i have done already !!

yes lockers are great

i have 31" muddies at the moment and front locker with rear lsd

lockrite locker - it is ShortyIQ awesome

just want bigger tyres and more clearance - and the cheapest way to do it !

[Bitsamissin]

You don't say if it is a V6 (rear coil springs) or 2.6 (rear leaf springs).
If it's a V6 remove the rear swaybar, and crank your torsion bars 50mm, cut your upper bumpstops (x4) down to 10mm or so.
Rear 2" lifted coils are around $200 a set and shocks anything from $80 to $250 Ea. As et of manual hubs with a front auto-locker is a wise move as well.
A 50mm body lift is bugger all if your mechanically minded or have some helpfull mates. Then you can certainly run 33"s maybe a set of Mongrels for the price they are good value.
With the Toyo offset rims (white Sunraysia type) 15x8" they will widen your wheel track (available from ProComp for about $55Ea).
You can get the Bushranger rubber flares in 2 sizes (35 & 65mm) they are a universal fit and cost around $200 for 4 from memory.
So for a modest outlay you can have a serious Jabber that will do a lot of stuff.

[corkhead]

ok its the V6 model - auto

thankyou heaps for this, this is exactly what im after

ok with all you have listed .. do you have some phone numbers

pricing sounds spot on - you also talk about (in other posts) cutting front sway bay and having a quick disconnect system on it .. whats involved with this / costs ??

removing the rear sway bar - would still be ok in travelling to/from bashing spots ....

This car is only for fun .. cost me $2200 and spent about $800 on it ... in really good nic - so i dont mind bashing it up a lil.

[Bitsamissin]

Procomp is in Narre Warren 9705 6677.
They will fix you up with the Mongrels and 15x8" steel rims they also supply rear coils, shocks etc.
As for manual hubs ring around the Mitsu wreckers the Triton ones fit as well. You want the factory Aisin hubs they are the best (strongest) try Imlachs in Clayton 9552 1999.
Procomp will do your body lift but will charge, I think Cheezy charges around $500 for a body lift 9762 9032.
I wouldn't worry about the front swaybar disconnect just yet with the proposed mods.
Don't forget a snorkel if your doing the sloppy stuff.
But in the end it really boils down to how much you want to spend or how much you can do yourself (or mates).
Removing the rear swaybar is fine for the road (try it first) removing/disconnecting the front is more dramatic.
If it was me :-
- 2" body lift
- 33x12.5" Mongrels on 15x8" white steelies
- remove rear swaybar
- Aisin manual hubs
- 2" torsion bar lift cut upper bumpstops & wheel alignment
- 2" rear coils with matching shocks (probably adjustables like Rancho's)
- snorkel

[corkhead]

thankyou bitsamissin !!

very helpful as always with the people on here.

I will start the mods very soon, will call procomp and get some pricing.

thanksmate

corkhead

[-Scott-]

Going back a step:

Suspension lift will lift the chassis, including the front crossmember, but not the rear diff. Ramp-over is improved, as are approach and departure angles, but ground clearance under the rear axle is stock as a rock. With the Pajero's IFS you'll only improve front wheel travel if you cut your bumpstops down (or longer shocks in the Gen 3s - apparently the shock is the bump stop for droop...)

A body lift lifts the body on the chassis, but doesn't lift the chassis. Ground clearance under chassis rails and drivetrain components doesn't change, but door sills and bumpers/bull bar are (normally) lifted with the body. COG is lifted, but nowhere near as much as with a suspension lift, as the heavy engine and gearbox are still in the same position with respect to the chassis. The big benefit of a body lift is the ability to clear larger tyres - which will lift EVERYTHING; chassis, body, rear axle, and COG...

It's sort of "horses for courses" - work out what you want to achieve, then go for the lift which best suits what you're after.

Or you could just do both.

Cheers,

Scott

[Locknut]

hay corkhead keeps all posted on how its going

[corkhead]

reply - i have emailed procomp for a complete quote of basically all bits frank recommended.

still waiting if i havent heard ill call them towards end of week.

at the moment im waiting for a new circlip from mitsi for the front axel - keeps popping out (well twice) drivers side - pops out from diff.

so once i am satisfied that is fixed will start the rest

and yes ill even post pics of my own bush mechanics in doing it !!

looking forward to a good project (the missus isnt!!)

[Locknut]

funny breed some of the wemon i know my wife almost's kills me every time i mention some thing about my NH,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,cant wait to see those pics