Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
50mm Body lift for V6 2004 Hilux Xtra Cab --- DONE
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
50mm Body lift for V6 2004 Hilux Xtra Cab --- DONE
In case anybody is looking for this info........successfully lifted a current V6 Hilux Xtra Cab with the following:
1. Front Cab mounts M10x160 long High Tensile bolts (black, cold gal sprayed...zinc plated not available this length),
2. Middle Cab mounts M10x150 long High Tensile, Zinc plated (10mm too short for front mounts in case people are wondering),
3. Back Cab mounts 1/2' x 6' Zinc plated (original are 13.4mm, closest zinc or black is 1/2')
4. Style side tray front and middle mounts M12x100mmx1.25 thread, black with cold gal, tray has captive nuts
5. Style side tray back mount M12x80mm, zinc plated from Repco. No captive nuts.
Body blocks are Ultra High Density Polyurethane blocks cut from a 50mm x 1m long piece available from most industrial plastics suppliers, I used one in Artarmon, Cut to Size Plastics I think, $37/length. Cut with drop saw and drilled with standard drills. No huge deal.
Radiator shroud left in position as fan blades miss bottom half of shroud by 10-15mm as standard.
Steering shaft middle and lower spline joints un bolted and re-tightened after lift. No problems, plenty of meat left.
Fuel filler hose and overflow hose needed to be lengthened. 38mm filler hose non standard size at Auto shops, still sourcing fuel compatible hose.
Gear sticks didnt need lengthening, although a bit low in the hand, but no big issue. Inside boots will need to be removed or body cut back a bit to stop gear stick popping out of 2nd, 4th and reverse.
Thats it, no other hiccups or dramas.
Only problem now is looks silly with 31s, must try 33s or 34s!!
Anybody want any other info, PM me. Pics available if required.
Karl
1. Front Cab mounts M10x160 long High Tensile bolts (black, cold gal sprayed...zinc plated not available this length),
2. Middle Cab mounts M10x150 long High Tensile, Zinc plated (10mm too short for front mounts in case people are wondering),
3. Back Cab mounts 1/2' x 6' Zinc plated (original are 13.4mm, closest zinc or black is 1/2')
4. Style side tray front and middle mounts M12x100mmx1.25 thread, black with cold gal, tray has captive nuts
5. Style side tray back mount M12x80mm, zinc plated from Repco. No captive nuts.
Body blocks are Ultra High Density Polyurethane blocks cut from a 50mm x 1m long piece available from most industrial plastics suppliers, I used one in Artarmon, Cut to Size Plastics I think, $37/length. Cut with drop saw and drilled with standard drills. No huge deal.
Radiator shroud left in position as fan blades miss bottom half of shroud by 10-15mm as standard.
Steering shaft middle and lower spline joints un bolted and re-tightened after lift. No problems, plenty of meat left.
Fuel filler hose and overflow hose needed to be lengthened. 38mm filler hose non standard size at Auto shops, still sourcing fuel compatible hose.
Gear sticks didnt need lengthening, although a bit low in the hand, but no big issue. Inside boots will need to be removed or body cut back a bit to stop gear stick popping out of 2nd, 4th and reverse.
Thats it, no other hiccups or dramas.
Only problem now is looks silly with 31s, must try 33s or 34s!!
Anybody want any other info, PM me. Pics available if required.
Karl
Twisted by Design
Cool, thanks for posting that. Am lifting a mates one soon, so that will come in handy. Would love to see some pics, post them on here or email them to dgkdraft@bigpond.net.au
Cheers...
Cheers...
2012 FJ Cruiser
1984 BJ42 - Stretched and Coilovered
1977 HJ45
1984 BJ42 - Stretched and Coilovered
1977 HJ45
thanks, Ill have a look at bending it. took the boot below the actual gear leaver boot, and seems to have fixed the problem, but havent tested it yet on fast 4wd tracks, like gravel. where exactly am i supposed to bend it?
as for the 33s, i got the torsion bars up most of the way, so will this still rub on full lock? what if i got 1 inch offset rims?
thanks.
as for the 33s, i got the torsion bars up most of the way, so will this still rub on full lock? what if i got 1 inch offset rims?
thanks.
Thank you for that great news, have 33 wheels and tyres and need to lift mine to fit them. Well doen ..Would appreciate pics email if ok jclark@bigpond.net.au Thanks John
Would love to see some pics also( swift30psi@hotmail.com). Just wondering if you have done anything to the rear suspension? Im assuming you just wound up the torsion bars a bit in the front. With the body lift and 33's would it be legal in Qld.
Cheers
Justin
Cheers
Justin
2004 V6 Hilux
Airlockers 2 inch suspension lift 2 inch body lift
Airlockers 2 inch suspension lift 2 inch body lift
Pics coming, home pc is rooted so have to do at work.
Havent done anything to rear suspension yet, have had mixed thoughts on what to do and the possible results.
When im off road, being that I got a nice long tray and really stiff springs, the rear wheels has a tendency to start to skip and have even been known to jump 4inchs in the air going up hills, Im assuming this is cos of the springs and "axle-wrap"??? (more axle wrap happening then not, happening then not, etc, hence the bouncing!
I have looked at getting 50mm lift blocks under the springs, but have read that this aggrevates axle wrap, although these blocks are usually installed when u remove a stiff spring leaf to soften up the springs, i wouldnt be doing that.
Am also looking at putting in a Snake or ORI extended shackle to give more lift.
Am also considering removing the top bend-overs on the very last leaf spring hold together brackets (dont know the exact name of this piece) to give more flex of road. Anybody know if this would work?
Cheers
Havent done anything to rear suspension yet, have had mixed thoughts on what to do and the possible results.
When im off road, being that I got a nice long tray and really stiff springs, the rear wheels has a tendency to start to skip and have even been known to jump 4inchs in the air going up hills, Im assuming this is cos of the springs and "axle-wrap"??? (more axle wrap happening then not, happening then not, etc, hence the bouncing!
I have looked at getting 50mm lift blocks under the springs, but have read that this aggrevates axle wrap, although these blocks are usually installed when u remove a stiff spring leaf to soften up the springs, i wouldnt be doing that.
Am also looking at putting in a Snake or ORI extended shackle to give more lift.
Am also considering removing the top bend-overs on the very last leaf spring hold together brackets (dont know the exact name of this piece) to give more flex of road. Anybody know if this would work?
Cheers
PICS Added
Heres the link to my pics.....
truck........http://www.spin.net.au/~runningman/hilux/100-0063_IMG.JPG
and
body block pic.....http://www.spin.net.au/~runningman/hilux/100-0064_IMG.JPG
Bullbar and towbar still to be modified to suit lift.
Later. Karl
truck........http://www.spin.net.au/~runningman/hilux/100-0063_IMG.JPG
and
body block pic.....http://www.spin.net.au/~runningman/hilux/100-0064_IMG.JPG
Bullbar and towbar still to be modified to suit lift.
Later. Karl
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests