Maximum Lift

[Strange Rover]

DQ,

Give me a ring on 0414 611 645 when you are keen to come up and have a look at what we have done in the past for the 2in body lift. I will have a bit of a look in the shed cause I may still have a set of spacers (ones that Qld Rollers and Liners made) that you can have. Also got a rear bar for a rangie that you can have that wraps around the side to protect the rear quarter that you can have also (although this requires about 2in to be cut off the bottom of the rear panel for it to fit and it is also welded to the chassis in a couple of places) Depends on how keen you are to cut your rangie up.

Heres an old pic of how my rig used to look with the 2in body lift (rear chassis notched and lifted so no spacers in the very back so the bumper still lines up plus the extra 2in clearance in the rear) and the rear bar (looks very stock but this bar is extremely strong cause its triangulated bact to the chassis and has upward supports that push on the floor of the body - there was nothing I could do to bent this bar - although the way I drive now I probably could)

And if you want to cut it up even more you could probably convince me to give you this tray in the second pic.

Sam

[lumpyclod]

Strange Rover I would be very interested to know what suspension is under the rangie in that first picture. I just bought a rolling range rover with every thing but a motor and box as a project vehicle. I would like it to have similar flex to your rover in the picture above. So can you please give me a rundown of what it is running. It sure is flexing nicely.

[Bodge]

Sam - if you are givin away all your shite I might have to move over and go on the dole with the rest of the Kiwis....

I remember the two Haultech images pages that you had of your white rangie only a couple of years back... It was all top secret suspension modifications. Its truly impressive how far the old white rangie has come in such a short space of time. Frustrating too that my project is so damn slow.

Still when I am ol' retired grandad like you guys I will probably have more time to spend in the shed

[the naked Duck]

Hi Strange Rover,

Thanks for the more than generous offer. I'll give you a call and come up

I'm willing to give the Rangie the Chop, if the tray is available I'll take it :D

[Strange Rover]

Strange Rover I would be very interested to know what suspension is under the rangie in that first picture. I just bought a rolling range rover with every thing but a motor and box as a project vehicle. I would like it to have similar flex to your rover in the picture above. So can you please give me a rundown of what it is running. It sure is flexing nicely.

It that point I think it was running stock springs all round (130lb/in front and 170s in the rear) 2in body lift, 31in tyres.

Front shocks could have been stock length (not sure here) with flogged out radius arm bushes OR could have been 14in travel shocks (from truck wreckers out of the front of a LTL9000 Ford prime mover) with 4in extended shock towers (still runnning these shocks and towers in my current mogrover) Also could have been running a hinged radius arm (and if anyone can convince me to part with this also they can have it).

In the back had standard length shocks (heavy duty ones - again from a truck wreckor) that have been mounted lower and further forward on the chassis to give the axle more travel. Would have had drop out cones of some sort for the springs (probably spring clamped at the top and cone at the bottom)

If I had a range rover again I would probably do it a bit differently but I would get a similar result.

Funny thing is from the rangie in the top picture to my current rig the only thing left is the brake and clutch pedals

Sam

[v8grunt]

sid also makes off set bushs for the suspension so one can correct the caster angle after the said lift.

good bloke our sid

oh and he makes some realy good engine mounts of the heavy duty type.

[suzidisco]

last i heard Mannells in Sydney was putting together a 6'' lift for a disco the may be of help for you i currently have a 3 1/2'' spring 2'' body lift with no adverse problems.
http://www.mannellmotors.com.au/

[Peter Sanders]

I got my 2" Aluminium block body lift from RoverTym in the US (www.rovertym.com) for US 235$. I carried them with my luggage!

Geez! You can buy a a 2" lift for about that price in AU$ in OZ!

I got my 2" aluminium block body lift from the local steel and aluminium supplier. 10x 2" blocks cut to size = $25.00. 10x high tensile bolts (2" longer) $20.00 I think. So for around $45.00 and my time to drill the bolt holes in the aluminium blocks and install them, I had a 2" body lift.

I was advised that I did not need to extend the brake lines, however the front brake lines did look tight under articulation. (The back brake line was ok as it was attached to the diff). As I was quoted an exorbitant price for new lines, I chose a simpler and much less expensive method. I had a local brake company make up two pairs of 2.5 inch copper brake lines. $40.00 for these "extensions". These had the appropriate (male/female) fittings to insert into the current line. I removed the metal bracket that attahed the existing brake lines inside the wheel well. These brackets were then turned upside down and reattached. The short "extensions" made up the difference in length.

Dead easy on an 89 RR. email me if you need any advice on this 2" lift.

Regards

Peter

[DiscoDino]

Peter,

I know that the cost was really high, but I was trying to source out the stuff needed in Lebanon to no avail for around 2 years. I decided to go ahead with it.

Usually, I work on the truck myself, and fabricate anything I do not get accross from, but since no one in Lebanon had ANY experience with BLs, I decided to get a "finished" set so as to learn from it.

I'll be doumenting everything in July.

Thanks for the offer!

Good Luck to us all!

[Peter Sanders]

or you could do something like this -
This guy used 3" pipe and welded round plates top and bottom...

Way too much work

Regards

Peter

[Peter Sanders]

You could also buy solid steel rod, my local steel shop sells 2'' thick solid rod for $30 per meter. Get them to cut it into 2" blocks, drill it out and smooth off the edges. Then you still need to make up the brackets for the radiator, brake lines, body support brackets etc. etc.

The steel approach was also my original approach, but the weight for 10x lumps of steel was vastly more than the aluminium. It cost me $5 more for aluminium blocks than it did for steel.

On my 89 RR body lift, the radiator brackets were unscrewed and relocated the brake lines were extended with 2.5" "inserts" ie proper brake line pipe with the connections to extend from the standard line 2.5" lower down to the standard flexible line. For body support brackets I put a 2" square tube under the rear load area at sat this on the standard support bracket. This required more fiddling than most people would bother doing. As the normal rear load area only rests on rubber on the chassis place some 2" square tubing at each end of the standard support rail this will work fine.

I forgot to mention the "eyebolt" thingies that go between the chassis and the rear floor, I purchased some heim? joints to replace the original eyebolts. If I were to do another body lift, I would cut it and weld a tube into the original eyebolt to make it longer.

I sold the 89 RR, however I could go and take some pic's if required.

Regards

Peter

[madrangie]

For my two cent i was told today that standardrover has around 70mm for front b/s and 90 for back b/s ,now i have around the 135mm for the fornt 5which i haven't gone into moding the front yet but with the back i have around the 190mm b/s . The back is all custom if you want big lifts you pay big bucks , the springs are all custom made ($125 a set good price any lenght/poundage) , then u go into your arms and A-frame if you don't do this you will tear the top of the diff where your a-frame bolt joint bolts in . Now there are heaps of ways you can correct these things . How i had them corrected thanks to cheezy/hayden . custom made trailing arms longer and stronger believe it is called hollow rod ( ask cheezy for more info ) then a new and improved A-frame was made with a special cheezy designed swivel bush thingy that allows the diffs to move freely in both direction . Then came longer shocks ($360 a pair) and brake lines ($250 for f/b) all cost money and it starts to add up , i will try and get pics up soon .

if i had a choice to do it agian for a every day / weekend warrior not worth it for something boho etc yes

[Discovery]

Boat trailer rollers !

Already drilled for bolts they come in 100mm lengths. Nice easy cut in half and you have your 50mm body lift...

Cheap as - enough to do you rangie for under $60 NZ paesos

Oh yeah... you can even get flash galvanised ones!

PS. Start spraying the existing bolts with CRC now! 20 odd years of corrosion make those suckers a to get off...

Never do this, it looks terrible!!! Just spend the extra money on an actuall lift!