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Steering Box for '92 Classic
Moderator: Micka
Steering Box for '92 Classic
Afternoon all,
My Rangie seems really vague in the steering whilst in motion, there seems to be some free play when the wheel is centred. I have replaced the steering dampers, and all the bushes seem in tact, wheel alignment has also been done, still vague.
I'd like to put a new box in, been quoted close to a grand to supply and install, is this right?
Any ideas or options....
Thanks
My Rangie seems really vague in the steering whilst in motion, there seems to be some free play when the wheel is centred. I have replaced the steering dampers, and all the bushes seem in tact, wheel alignment has also been done, still vague.
I'd like to put a new box in, been quoted close to a grand to supply and install, is this right?
Any ideas or options....
Thanks
4.2 Turbo GU
You HAVE adjusted the steering box by turning the adjusting screw on top?
Have you checked that the steering column has no play and that the tie rod ends and pitman arm end are all OK? Awheel aligner will not necessarily do these basics.
Lot cheaper than a new steering box.
They usually fail by leaking out the seal on the bottom. If it doesn't leak it is probably OK.
Regards Philip A
Have you checked that the steering column has no play and that the tie rod ends and pitman arm end are all OK? Awheel aligner will not necessarily do these basics.
Lot cheaper than a new steering box.
They usually fail by leaking out the seal on the bottom. If it doesn't leak it is probably OK.
Regards Philip A
Just to be specific, there is an adjusting screw with a locknut on top of the steering box. You need an allen key and spanner.
You loosen the nut about 1/2 turn, then while holding the nut tighten the allen key about 1/8 to 1/4 turn ONLY. Then tighten the nut .
Then check the play in the steering shaft by rocking it side to side with your hand, grabbing the rubber joint . You only tighten until you have just a little play and no side to side clunk clunk.
Repeat but only do a little bit at a time say 1/8 to 1/4 turn.
You should then check that you do not have stiff spots by raising the axle on axle stands and starting up and turning the steering lock to lock.
Regards Philip A
You loosen the nut about 1/2 turn, then while holding the nut tighten the allen key about 1/8 to 1/4 turn ONLY. Then tighten the nut .
Then check the play in the steering shaft by rocking it side to side with your hand, grabbing the rubber joint . You only tighten until you have just a little play and no side to side clunk clunk.
Repeat but only do a little bit at a time say 1/8 to 1/4 turn.
You should then check that you do not have stiff spots by raising the axle on axle stands and starting up and turning the steering lock to lock.
Regards Philip A
I was warned not to over-tighten that allen key as well, but stupidly I didn't ask why not?, Phillip can you enlighten.
Also double check all those bushes on the steering assembly and anything associated, with a bar. The smallest movement had a dangerous oscillation effect on the steering of my vehicle!!. Even after-market bushes were useless, so went back to Rover stock; & problem solved...
Cheers...Gerry
Also double check all those bushes on the steering assembly and anything associated, with a bar. The smallest movement had a dangerous oscillation effect on the steering of my vehicle!!. Even after-market bushes were useless, so went back to Rover stock; & problem solved...
Cheers...Gerry
Cheers, Gerry........
7/87 110 County Isuzu 3.9TDI, Maxi Front n Rear.
7/87 110 County Isuzu 3.9TDI, Maxi Front n Rear.
Well,The adjuster pushes down on the sector shaft.
Too tight and the steering may have stiff spots not necessarily at straight ahead. The steering may not self center.Also the thrust surface of the sector shaft will wear quicker.
I went into detail as anything to do with steering is a safety issue and really should be left to a specialist unless you feel confident in your ability.
Regards Philip A
Too tight and the steering may have stiff spots not necessarily at straight ahead. The steering may not self center.Also the thrust surface of the sector shaft will wear quicker.
I went into detail as anything to do with steering is a safety issue and really should be left to a specialist unless you feel confident in your ability.
Regards Philip A
Philip A wrote:Well,The adjuster pushes down on the sector shaft.
Too tight and the steering may have stiff spots not necessarily at straight ahead. The steering may not self center.Also the thrust surface of the sector shaft will wear quicker.
I went into detail as anything to do with steering is a safety issue and really should be left to a specialist unless you feel confident in your ability.
Regards Philip A
Thanks for this info. and thank you mr moderator for placing it in the tech section.
I did this and it has made my car about 50% moreresponsive (mine was way to loose) and its much safer to drive.
HSV Rangie wrote:
"Note: Std RR has 3 degrees of castor angle, with B/stop clearannce of 2 inches.
Every HALF inch lifted, you will loose ONE degree Castor. "
Your stearing woes and wobbles may be caused by lift and thereby loss of caster.
According to the above quote from HSV Rangie it doesn´t take much lift to cause even negative caster if nothing is done to negate that effect.
How about that guys; do you keep the caster by lowering the rear ends of the suspension arms, or is there something available to alter the angle of the axle in the arms like the urethane C-bushings you can get for the old Bronco bobtails?
"Note: Std RR has 3 degrees of castor angle, with B/stop clearannce of 2 inches.
Every HALF inch lifted, you will loose ONE degree Castor. "
Your stearing woes and wobbles may be caused by lift and thereby loss of caster.
According to the above quote from HSV Rangie it doesn´t take much lift to cause even negative caster if nothing is done to negate that effect.
How about that guys; do you keep the caster by lowering the rear ends of the suspension arms, or is there something available to alter the angle of the axle in the arms like the urethane C-bushings you can get for the old Bronco bobtails?
if you don´t know its impossible, you just might do it!
Many options here:
1: castor correctiom bushes. (I dont like)
2: crank radias arms, this fixes all as in correcxts castor, and restores the arm to chassy bush tostock set up. (this I did)
3: slot swivel balls and rotate.
Michael.
1: castor correctiom bushes. (I dont like)
2: crank radias arms, this fixes all as in correcxts castor, and restores the arm to chassy bush tostock set up. (this I did)
3: slot swivel balls and rotate.
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
Re: Steering Box for '92 Classic
I've just put mine in for a new box, $720 installed for a changeover unit.Gollywog wrote: I'd like to put a new box in, been quoted close to a grand to supply and install, is this right?
Thanks
'88 Rangie, 3.9i, Bilstein Shocks and RS Springs, ARB Lockers F&R, 24spline rear axles, Flares, [url=http://users.on.net/~vethaak/Projects.htm]Custom centre console and cargo shelves[/url]
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