93' 80 series body lift (help)

[Walrus 4X4]

does anyone no of any problem with 80series having body lifts
because i was thinking of a 2" lift on mine

[bruce]

I have done a 2â€

[crankycruiser]

Anyone know what size bolts u need to do this???

Lenghts etc?

[Walrus 4X4]

i was asking because i heard somewhere the 80 series tend to crack or something like that has anyone had trouble

[LilBlkDuck]

i was asking because i heard somewhere the 80 series tend to crack or something like that has anyone had trouble

I heard this as well and used PolyUrethane on the inners and UHMWPE (PolyEthylene) pucks at the ends, aver 12 months ago and have never had an issue.
http://lbd.end0.net/

[bruce]

They are 3/8TH imp or 10mm met, as for the length just pull out the old ones and take them to your bolt shop and get a set 2" longer then what you have got. The front two are a bit of a shit though (very long to start with) can not get 10mm or 3/8th grade 8 bolts that long. You have to use threaded rod with nuts on each end or marine grade stainless, cost me $50 for 2!!!

Bruce.

[MissDrew]

You can reuse the front 2 standard bolts in the very rear after installing the blocks, costs you nothing

[bruce]

i did but one of them snapped at the back they are only grade 5 bolts. Got two new ones grade 8 all good now.

[ferog]

Will be doing mine shortly. Mine's a 93. Let us know how you go Walrus. Cheers.

[Walrus 4X4]

sure will let u no
i'm just worried about my spare wheel carrier on the back it is one of those ones that go around the rear bumper so i will have to look into modifing the mounts on that too.

[thelux]

I had a BIG problem with my gear sticks i had to cut a shitload of floor out to be able to select 2nd 4th and reverse i still have a problem with my low range stick i had to move it over and lengthen it to be able to get 2nd gear otherwise it would hit the gear stick, i modified it to be out of the way but i recently snapped it off trying to select gear.

any suggestions on where i can get some pre modified sticks?


cheers.

[thehanko]

They are 3/8TH imp or 10mm met, as for the length just pull out the old ones and take them to your bolt shop and get a set 2" longer then what you have got. The front two are a bit of a shit though (very long to start with) can not get 10mm or 3/8th grade 8 bolts that long. You have to use threaded rod with nuts on each end or marine grade stainless, cost me $50 for 2!!!

Bruce.

seems expensixe for stainless rod? where did you go? bunnings (read rip off merchants)?

If you hit up a specialist bolt place I would think you would pay around $25.

My last stainless 10mm rod cost $18 for a meter.

[bj on roids]

What if your 80 series has airbags?

what to do?

[richo_turbo60]

l have just done a 30 mm body lift in my cruiser and it wasnt to bad.

Had to modify fan shroad and low range shifter

no problems with the auto linkages which was sweet

[coops62]

This is the one mod that I would not do if I had my time over again. It's a pain in the butt job that isn't worth the hassle in my book. Requires removal of radiator and headlights to begin with and all up about 2 days of your time and you need an assistant.
I replaced all bolts with 12mm HT except at the rear where the front ones went and then used threaded rod for the front with nuts tacked on.
After the lift you need to lower the radiator or at least reposition the shroud, the low range lever presents it's issues also and you need to either cut the gearbox shroud or realign the lever, hoping that your gearlever boot surround still fits.
Your roo bar will sit 50mm lower which can impinge on your headlight spread depending on what type of bar you have and your rear bars/wheel carrier will also slant. I've put up with this for 8 years up until now and she's in the shop now having a new dual rear wheel carrier fitted. There was only one place that could re-jig the carrier for me to accommodate the bodylift as most are importers and few are actual manufacturers. Fortunately they offered the best wheel carrier IMO as well but it was also at the dearest price (my decision and I'm happy with what I will get in return). Bull bar is next

Because It's such a pain in the butt to put back I am tolerating it and working around it but a 4" spring lift would have been so much simpler and so easy to return to stock if ever the need should arise.

[djroberts]

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... =djroberts" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

and

http://lbd.end0.net/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The auto 80 body lift is easier to do, apparently. I took the time to drop the radiator properly because the bottom radiator hose was going to hit the air conditioning compressor and managed to do it (if i remember correctly) in about 2 and 1/2 days.

Front bolts were totally destroyed from rust.

Bolt lengths are easy to measure without removing. Just get under the car with a ruler and measure the length as you see it - it will only need the thickness of the body material and the head of the bolt added on to that.

I have many photo's of the conversion if you want more FYI.

Cheers, D.

[stilivn]

easy to do, 1 day if you have it all planned and know what your doing. 2 days otherwise. Will have to cut floor if its a manual or bend stick. dont recall having problems with my low/hi range stick, could be wrong was 2-3 years ago. Dont weld or use a threaded rod just go to a decent bolts joint will cost about $5 bucks a bolt grade 8. Will have to drop radiator, weld a bit of plate ontop of current supports and re-drill holes 2" higher. Dont cut shroud as then your fan will be less effective meaning hotter engine. Aligning bar work is biggest problem. Oh yeah an if you have the alloy steps use the mounting points to jack off. Oh yeah and no problem with cracking. Also an idea to get a slightly longer heater hose for behind engine, mine lasted bout 6 months then started to leak.

Cheap easy mod. would do again

[DX 80]

Ive got a 2 inch body lift in mine. We did it probably 3 years ago now.

Yep, bolts at the front were stuffed, yep headlights, and radiator had to come out from memory.

Floor pan just needed a bit of massaging for low range lever to enagage.

No cracking thus far from b/l.

It will alter your bar work, it wasn't an issue for me, I have custom front and rear bars.

It is a bit of fiddlng around. Me and a mate did it in a day, could take 2 if it turned to custard.

[mick80]

This is the one mod that I would not do if I had my time over again. It's a pain in the butt job that isn't worth the hassle in my book. Requires removal of radiator and headlights to begin with and all up about 2 days of your time and you need an assistant.
I replaced all bolts with 12mm HT except at the rear where the front ones went and then used threaded rod for the front with nuts tacked on.
After the lift you need to lower the radiator or at least reposition the shroud, the low range lever presents it's issues also and you need to either cut the gearbox shroud or realign the lever, hoping that your gearlever boot surround still fits.
Your roo bar will sit 50mm lower which can impinge on your headlight spread depending on what type of bar you have and your rear bars/wheel carrier will also slant. I've put up with this for 8 years up until now and she's in the shop now having a new dual rear wheel carrier fitted. There was only one place that could re-jig the carrier for me to accommodate the bodylift as most are importers and few are actual manufacturers. Fortunately they offered the best wheel carrier IMO as well but it was also at the dearest price (my decision and I'm happy with what I will get in return). Bull bar is next

I'm taking mine out when I get a chance worst mod I ever did!!
Cheers mick
Because It's such a pain in the butt to put back I am tolerating it and working around it but a 4" spring lift would have been so much simpler and so easy to return to stock if ever the need should arise.