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Engine Mounts
Moderator: Tiny
Engine Mounts
After getting under the car and having a look around. I think i may have broken an engine mount....whats the best way to confirm this? and has anyone replaced theirs and at what cost?
Pop the hood, start the car and get someone to rev it suddenly and forcefully while you watch the mount. If there is a break in it the mount will separate and you will see movement of the whloe engine.
If you have done a mount it will most likely be on the passenger side of the car as this is the side that lifts as the enging revs. There was a really good thread a while back by Clint i think who outlined how to make a mount with seatbelt around it to stop it flexing too far and breaking.
Otherwise there is a place at thornleigh near me that makes custom engine mounts - Noltec Engineering- Out of their compound, but not sure of prices.
If you have done a mount it will most likely be on the passenger side of the car as this is the side that lifts as the enging revs. There was a really good thread a while back by Clint i think who outlined how to make a mount with seatbelt around it to stop it flexing too far and breaking.
Otherwise there is a place at thornleigh near me that makes custom engine mounts - Noltec Engineering- Out of their compound, but not sure of prices.
On boooooost!!
Here is another thread about broken engine mounts.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=286953&highlight=#286953
I had pics of the strap i made, but of course ya can't see em at the moment. I can e-mail them if u like.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=286953&highlight=#286953
I had pics of the strap i made, but of course ya can't see em at the moment. I can e-mail them if u like.
Clint,
Limited Edition 95 Roza & 2006 ST Patrol Coil Cab Ute.... both a work in progress.
Limited Edition 95 Roza & 2006 ST Patrol Coil Cab Ute.... both a work in progress.
Hey again,
The mount that I broke was the left one like croz said. When it was broken, the gear stick moved heaps to the right when accelerating. Lift the bonnet up and get someone to just engage the clutch in first with the handbrake on to put some load on the engine and see if it picks up. When I was checking mine i found it hard to see the movement, but I could tell much easier from the gearstick movement when driving. Lincorp have the parts. Like I said in my other message to you about $80 I think. (thats genuine)
The mount that I broke was the left one like croz said. When it was broken, the gear stick moved heaps to the right when accelerating. Lift the bonnet up and get someone to just engage the clutch in first with the handbrake on to put some load on the engine and see if it picks up. When I was checking mine i found it hard to see the movement, but I could tell much easier from the gearstick movement when driving. Lincorp have the parts. Like I said in my other message to you about $80 I think. (thats genuine)
1994 Feroza SX II 2 inch suspension lift, 2.5 inch body lift, 31 inch Pro Comp X-terains, extractors and sports exhaust.
www.geocities.com/davefogwill
www.geocities.com/davefogwill
just found out i broke mine also... passenger side 
repco = $70
its just a pity they aren't build like the charade engine mounts. in that case, there is a metal loop welded to the body of the car, and in that loop is the rubber block. the engine is mounted on a thick bolt running through the block and is therefore less likely to break.
ahh well.
on with the seatbelt mod.
repco = $70
its just a pity they aren't build like the charade engine mounts. in that case, there is a metal loop welded to the body of the car, and in that loop is the rubber block. the engine is mounted on a thick bolt running through the block and is therefore less likely to break.
ahh well.
on with the seatbelt mod.
------------------------------------
Tzi -- beware of cheap imitations
Tzi -- beware of cheap imitations
Well the mount is in- my old one was like everyone else's, sheared off near the metal.
The Repco one was virtually identical. The metal it was made of was probably a bit thinner and the locating dowel didn't line up with the part that bolts to the block
..... Ended up drilling out the hole it locates into to get it to fit.
The rubber block seems to be a bit thinner and taller- which could mean it will last longer as it will possibly flex more before breaking?
Can post a pic if you want (need to download off camera and resize), but you'd be lucky to notice any difference.
The Repco one was virtually identical. The metal it was made of was probably a bit thinner and the locating dowel didn't line up with the part that bolts to the block
..... Ended up drilling out the hole it locates into to get it to fit.
The rubber block seems to be a bit thinner and taller- which could mean it will last longer as it will possibly flex more before breaking?
Can post a pic if you want (need to download off camera and resize), but you'd be lucky to notice any difference.
David
yep.. done mine too now. seat belt mod works a treat.
A quick ring around of the wreckers in melb netted my a RHS mount in good nick for $35. They are all the same, right hand, left hand etc. I told the guy what I wanted to do, and he gave me the seatbelt for nothing.
Got it from 4x4 place in dandenong, after looking in the yellowpages.
cheep cheep!
A quick ring around of the wreckers in melb netted my a RHS mount in good nick for $35. They are all the same, right hand, left hand etc. I told the guy what I wanted to do, and he gave me the seatbelt for nothing.
Got it from 4x4 place in dandenong, after looking in the yellowpages.
cheep cheep!
------------------------------------
Tzi -- beware of cheap imitations
Tzi -- beware of cheap imitations
Spartacus wrote:whats the procedure for installing/removing engine mounts?
undo bolts to mounts
lift up engine
remove old mounts
put old ones in
lower engine
tighten mounts
test
i got no idea really
Yes, you do have the idea.
Just be careful not to over lift the engine though. You might then over stress or tear your gearbox mount.
Dont expect mere proof to sway my opinion.
.
you could always undo the two bolts holding the gearbox mounts on just to be sure.
\Thanks for that. Makes a lot of sense really. Any tips on undoing the bolts for the drivers side mount? I bought a drivers side one too cause I was told it was too soft so id like to change it but getting access to it isnt easy.
93 Feroza SXP II
2" EFS Suspension Lift
30" Maxis AT Tyres
15x7 CSA Magnum Rims
2" EFS Suspension Lift
30" Maxis AT Tyres
15x7 CSA Magnum Rims
Well I got the mounts changed. I did both sides. The passengers side was broken so Im glad I did it! The drivers side wasnt but changed it anyway. Will keep the old one of that as a spare.
But did anyone else find that the passenger side one didnt line up to the bolt holes after changing it? I had to lower it down and use some force to get it to line up while being careful not to put undue pressure on the mount.
But its done and it seems to be fine. I've got the gearbox out now though so cant test it! Looking forward to it though!
But did anyone else find that the passenger side one didnt line up to the bolt holes after changing it? I had to lower it down and use some force to get it to line up while being careful not to put undue pressure on the mount.
But its done and it seems to be fine. I've got the gearbox out now though so cant test it! Looking forward to it though!
93 Feroza SXP II
2" EFS Suspension Lift
30" Maxis AT Tyres
15x7 CSA Magnum Rims
2" EFS Suspension Lift
30" Maxis AT Tyres
15x7 CSA Magnum Rims
The engine alignment of the Feroza is somehow to the right of the engine bay. Thats why when you brake the passenger or the driver mount you have to chech for any cracks on the passenger side engine.
www.ferozaclub.gr
[url=http://www.ferozaclub.gr][img]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f387/heroicentaur/forum/sign.gif[/img][/url]
[url=http://www.ferozaclub.gr][img]http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f387/heroicentaur/forum/sign.gif[/img][/url]
Before I threw away the stock mounts for good ( broke too many ) apart from seatbelt webbing, i put a small length of stainless steel wire rope horizontally from the transmission to the cross member.
When the transmission mount breaks the torque will more the transmission to the passengers side ( RHD ) and the uni's will start o knuckle out with unpleasant results..
It wont stop breakages but it will minimise the damage particularly if your in the middle of climbing something steep and stopping is not an option.
If you look at a Suzuki Vitara for example you will instantly see that the Vit runs a torque control bush to resist the twisting effort created by the transfer - something the Feroza doesn't have.
Since changing to different mounts all around and fitting a torque reaction bush there's been no further issues and I'm running a crawl ratio of 168:1 not 35:1 as stock so there's heaps more load generated.
So its a combination of crappy mounts AND no torque control bush that does the damage IMO.
When the transmission mount breaks the torque will more the transmission to the passengers side ( RHD ) and the uni's will start o knuckle out with unpleasant results..
It wont stop breakages but it will minimise the damage particularly if your in the middle of climbing something steep and stopping is not an option.
If you look at a Suzuki Vitara for example you will instantly see that the Vit runs a torque control bush to resist the twisting effort created by the transfer - something the Feroza doesn't have.
Since changing to different mounts all around and fitting a torque reaction bush there's been no further issues and I'm running a crawl ratio of 168:1 not 35:1 as stock so there's heaps more load generated.
So its a combination of crappy mounts AND no torque control bush that does the damage IMO.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
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