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For all you body choppers out there what do you do with the sharp edge?
Once you cut the panel you're left with a sharp edge. Do you have the panel folded up a bit or do you put something over it somehow. I don't want to fold it as you couldn't fold around the corner anyway I guess but I want an option that doesn't look like crap.
I am thinking of chopping the rear corners off my ute tub as I am sick of damaging it. It wouldn't give any more departure angle as the towbar will still be there but it would stop me from dragging and denting/tearing the corners of the tub.
This photo shows the options I'm considering. The black lines would leave the tub cut on an angle sloping down towards the tyre. The red lines show a straight cut that would line up approx with the front of the tray (in front of the rear wheel).
This is the result of three hits on the ground.
Thanks.
Last edited by Utemad on Fri Mar 04, 2005 10:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I was thinking body lift but I have an ARB winch bar and I don't want to have to modify it to suit. I thought the body chop might be an easy fix. I'll look into the ideas given here. Any further ideas would be great too.
I think when I fitted my bullbar I could have it flush with the guards above. I fitted it with almost an inch gap so I could possibly do a 1 - 1.5in body lift and not have to worry about the bullbar. Just undo the bolts and push it up as far as it can go.
when I put the bar on my rodeo(ARB winch bar) there was small amount of adgustment up.....more than down, and I reckon you could prolly modify the bar ver easilly to have 1" gap and that would look acepatable.....or just upgrade to a Patrol like I did
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
Utemad wrote:I'm too tight though and I quite like my little Rodeo. I'd prefer to play with this ute now and then get a Patrol or the like next year.
why waste time and $? Go the fun truck now and just spend on that, keep the rodeo for road work... I had one, a 2wd model. awesome car, 330,000klms on it in the end!
bogged wrote:why waste time and $? Go the fun truck now and just spend on that, keep the rodeo for road work
I'm a uni student atm and in my final year. I was a late starter. Although I could afford to upgrade now I don't feel comfortable with it as I don't know where I'll be next year. Could be overseas etc so I don't want to comit myself til I know what's happening.
So I'll just do some easy mods to my Rodeo til then.
muduppig wrote:if you do go the tray way ill prob buy the canopy off ya
I won't be doing the tray option but thanks for the offer. I'm going into Main Roads on Friday to inquire about body lift. I have the day off and from what I have heard I'll probably need it
Let us know what the outcome is with lift as I am curious myself. After looking at various options I have gone with a standard 40mm lift due to legality reasons with shackles.
To get the arse end off (mainly rear ute body like yours) the ground more another inch or 2 of body lift may be the go but after fighting out the legalities of a 3" suspension lift I am shell shocked!!
Utemad wrote:I am thinking of chopping the rear corners off my ute tub as I am sick of damaging it. It wouldn't give any more departure angle as the towbar will still be there but it would stop me from dragging and denting/tearing the corners of the tub.
Lift the towbar while your at it! I got 70mm out of mine and could have got more if I moved the rear step/bumper up a bit.
FJ62 Crusier GM V8 Diesel Lockers 33 MTs/35 117 extremes
Macarthur District 4WD Club http://www.macarthur4wdclub.com.au
Utemad wrote:How'd you raise the towbar? Drill new mounting holes in it?
I am always dragging the towbar.
Cut 70mm outta the sides, welded back together, plated the outside and gusset the inside.
The towbar was left bolted onto the 4b when this was done so none of the spaceings would be stuffed up. Here are some pics
FJ62 Crusier GM V8 Diesel Lockers 33 MTs/35 117 extremes
Macarthur District 4WD Club http://www.macarthur4wdclub.com.au
I called Dept Transport today about body lift. They're sending me an application form.
They also said that the body blocks have to be made out of either
Alloy
Neoprene
Polyurothene
Steel
Anyone got any preferences?
I assume for the bolts I just need to take out the factory ones and ask a bolt shop for the same again but XXmm longer?
They said the closest inspection place for me is Darra. Anyone have any experience with them? I had my old Commodore inspected there once as I got done for a cracked windscreen. At first the guy just signed off the paperwork without even looking and was about to let me go but then must have felt guilty and went and had a quick look at the windscreen only.
I assume for the body lift they will want a good look over the rest of the car. All is fine I would think except for a few small oil leaks I can just clean up beofore the inspection. Oh and put the stock tyres/rims back on.
OK I had a look over the body lift posts on this board and it appears that you need a crush tube if you don't use alloy or steel. I saw a post that had cheap polyurothene block material but what about th crush tube. I'm assuming it would still be cheaper to have some tubing cut to fit inside the bolt hole than it would be to buy alloy blocks.
Anyone know about the crush tube thing or prices/suppliers of alloy blocks?
Just checked the body lift kits on Ebay. None have the required 14 blocks however there is one alloy kit for a Patrol. Bolts and all. Would be great but I would still need to buggerise around getting the other 4 blocks etc.
I'm thinking of getting some of that cheap as chips poly stuff and getting some tube for it. Would work out fairly cheap. I'm sure the bolt shop could do me some tubing too or at least tell me where I can get it.
iam assuming you need 14 for the cab and tray i used proper ally blocks for the cab so its all above board and used steel which i made up myself for the tray you could do the same use the cheaper stuff for the tray part and ally for the cab may save some coin
PUT YOUR HANDS UP IF YOU WANT TO GO FASTER
RTD Racing
OFFROAD CARTEL
I was just thinking that this morning. Use alloy for the cab and the poly stuff for the tray. I'm going to call a few inspection centres when I get the application form to get some of their opinions.
I need 8 for the cab and 6 for the tray. By my count at least. I think that is all of them.