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longer springs without chasis mods

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

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Post by ausyota »

I too am curious about longer leaves.
If you could get leaves about 1-1.5 inch or so longer you could get a nice shackle angle with slightly longer shackles without fawking about with wheel base and chasi extensions.
All you would need would be the main leaf for each pack.
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Post by Gutless »

apparently mazda 808 wagon springs are a good length. you could also try the top leaf out of some old leafy vans. Stay away from the larger 4bys as the leaves are alot thicker and such are stiffer.

the jackaroo leaves we are using are about 200mm longer eye to eye. We removed the load leaf and flipped the bottom leaf onto the top to flatten them out. ( would have givien 4" lift easy)

Shackle angle will be about 45 degrees, or a fraction less.
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Post by built4thrashing »

the thing to look at with choosing a longer leaf is how long it becomea when flat and then how far past the rear hanger it is will determin the shackle length. if ya use a 200mm longer leaf then the shackle would have to be at least 120mm longer and thats huge
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Post by Damo »

Gutless wrote:Shocks are getting closer everyday :x We are ute cabbing it ( hard top) and then moving the tank soon, so will prolly keep the diff where it is for now, and in a few months after the ute conversion, we'll move the diff back and relocate the tank.

Will post pics when done :D


Cmon Pete, don't make us wait, post up some progress pics!
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Post by SAWZALL »

Are the pins in the rear springs offset? Or are they in the middle of the spring?

Yes I tried searching
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Post by Gutless »

Ok here are some pics. rear end owes him $300 including NEW long travel shocks. We can milk another 2" of travel out of it too :armsup:

Image
Image
Image

RUF is next weekend, and thats all new suspension for under $500 with more travel than a suzisport kit anyday of the week and twice on sundays ;)
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Post by Gutless »

I didn't get any pics of it off the ramp, but we are taking it out tomorrow to test it. It has no lockers yet so there is only so much we can do, but if for no other reason; I'd recommend this mod for the simple fact that the on road ride quality is 1000% better!! It drives better than my patrol! :shock:
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Post by nicbeer »

Got any pics of the shockie setup?

any mods done to the front.

cheers
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Post by Gutless »

shockies are mounted to original mounts at the top ( will be layed inwards by 2" when we do the ute cab)

The bottom mounts are on new bottom plates, but are basically the same as factory, so no real changes to shockie mounts.

the front is standard.
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Post by nicbeer »

How long is the shackle at the rear?

Do you know what shocks were used? lengths?

what are the plans for the front?
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Post by Gutless »

RUF is next weekend, will post the shackle and shock lengths next weekend.
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Post by built4thrashing »

hey gutless with the front mount setup does the leaf hit the bolt that goes through the stock mount when fully compressed and what are the chances of getting the dimensions off ya so i can make a sililar setup.
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Post by Gutless »

No it doesn't hit that bolt. There is about 10mm clearance on full uptravel.

I will see If I can draw it up, otherwise I can post the template to you :D
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Post by stumped »

i like the look of that mount, practical.... got any other pics of it before it went on? might need to copy it sometime :cool:
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Post by grimbo »

ausyota wrote:I too am curious about longer leaves.
If you could get leaves about 1-1.5 inch or so longer you could get a nice shackle angle with slightly longer shackles without fawking about with wheel base and chasi extensions.
All you would need would be the main leaf for each pack.
Paul.


the reason we do the RUF is not so much for getting more flex (although this is definetely a bonus( but to change the weight balance. By bringing the front diff forward it moves the weight in front of the engine giving a much better feel when flexing.

If that makes any sense :?
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Post by Gutless »

Yes it makes sense grimbo, but how much difference will 1 or 2" make???

Stumped: will get some more pics, but the brackets have been on and off a few times now, so I don't really fancy the idea of pulling them off again just for a pic ;)

Basically ita a plate bolted either side of the original mount ( as long as you need to fit your chosen leaf springs). There is a plate that goes across the top of the two side plates, to stop sideways movement. Then there is a plate that is virticle, that stops the mount from moving up and down. And a web to stop the whole frikin thing from falling appart.

Very simple, and the best thing is its a bolt on mod, so if you decide to change at a later date; half an hour and 6 beers later its gone :finger:
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Post by Guy »

Gutless wrote:Yes it makes sense grimbo, but how much difference will 1 or 2" make???


It is quite amazing the way the handling changes especially when you start to unload the front end during a climb
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Post by Gutless »

With 31's, will it rub on the back of the headlight bucket? Not too concerned about this as we are cutting behind the headlight out and welding a new inner gaurd into that area that gives a bit more room in the wheel arch. Will also be slicing the front gaurds up to fit some TJ wrangler style flares, but until that happens, will it be ok offroad?
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Post by christover1 »

Gutless wrote:With 31's, will it rub on the back of the headlight bucket? Not too concerned about this as we are cutting behind the headlight out and welding a new inner gaurd into that area that gives a bit more room in the wheel arch. Will also be slicing the front gaurds up to fit some TJ wrangler style flares, but until that happens, will it be ok offroad?
'

my front axle is 22mm pushed forward with standard sierra ome front springs (redrilled axle plates)
It has 65mm offset on the rims. It did bind quite a lot on the headlight bucket.
I cut out the offending metal and replaced it with rubber sheet. with tar paint it all looks quite normal...good thing is, on odd times tyres hit, its only rubber, no bind or tyre damage :) christover
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Post by Guy »

Gutless wrote:With 31's, will it rub on the back of the headlight bucket? Not too concerned about this as we are cutting behind the headlight out and welding a new inner gaurd into that area that gives a bit more room in the wheel arch. Will also be slicing the front gaurds up to fit some TJ wrangler style flares, but until that happens, will it be ok offroad?


Spring over or under ??

SPUA you might hit
SPOA you will be fine.
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Post by stumped »

Gutless wrote:Stumped: will get some more pics, but the brackets have been on and off a few times now, so I don't really fancy the idea of pulling them off again just for a pic ;)

Basically ita a plate bolted either side of the original mount ( as long as you need to fit your chosen leaf springs). There is a plate that goes across the top of the two side plates, to stop sideways movement. Then there is a plate that is virticle, that stops the mount from moving up and down. And a web to stop the whole frikin thing from falling appart.

Very simple, and the best thing is its a bolt on mod, so if you decide to change at a later date; half an hour and 6 beers later its gone :finger:


cheers dude, not asking ya to pull it off again tho :D just if ya got a pic from before it was on... or if u happen to pull it off again ;)
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Post by sierrajim »

an extra 2 inches can make a huge difference :lol:

No really, when a majority of the weight concerntration is in the engineand the diff is directly underneath you would be supprised how much difference there is.

If anyone wants to do RUF in Melbourne and wants to know the difference in weight balance i have scales here suitable for recording the weights.
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Post by Guy »

sierrajim wrote:an extra 2 inches can make a huge difference :lol:

No really, when a majority of the weight concerntration is in the engineand the diff is directly underneath you would be supprised how much difference there is.

If anyone wants to do RUF in Melbourne and wants to know the difference in weight balance i have scales here suitable for recording the weights.


May take you up on that .. I'm planning on doing my lil bro's Zuk that is otherwise bog stock .. just for the increase in ride comfort.

would be an interesting experiment.
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Post by Gutless »

christover1 wrote:
Gutless wrote:With 31's, will it rub on the back of the headlight bucket? Not too concerned about this as we are cutting behind the headlight out and welding a new inner gaurd into that area that gives a bit more room in the wheel arch. Will also be slicing the front gaurds up to fit some TJ wrangler style flares, but until that happens, will it be ok offroad?
'

my front axle is 22mm pushed forward with standard sierra ome front springs (redrilled axle plates)
It has 65mm offset on the rims. It did bind quite a lot on the headlight bucket.
I cut out the offending metal and replaced it with rubber sheet. with tar paint it all looks quite normal...good thing is, on odd times tyres hit, its only rubber, no bind or tyre damage :) christover


Thanks bloke :D

Was gonna chop out that bit of 'offending metal' behind the headlight and weld in some sheet. Might fit some of those TJ style flares at the same time :armsup:

Where can I get some from? Do overkill sell them?
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Post by built4thrashing »

hey gutless. How did you go with the front spring hangers? got any pics of what ya did?

how would you go trying to get them hangers legal?
gonna try something similar on my zook
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Lots of custom gear as I cant afford the proper stuff.
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