Frank to change a cv you don`t need to touch the bearings.
The way I used to do it was
remove just the hub cover, 6 x 10mm bolts.
remove the c clip on the end of the stub axle(cv)
remover the backing felts around the bell, 8 x 10mm
remove the steering arm that is bolted to the top of the swivel housing, 4 x 19mm (or is it 17mm, haven`t done it for over 12 months).
only loosen the 4 bolts in the bottom of the swivel housing.
then remove the whole brake hub assembly off the end of the housing and cv in one hit. Sit this whole assembly on the wheel you have taken off.
remove the cv (remember the flat on the cv cup has to be horizontal to come out of the housing end bell (if its smashed to bits it want matter
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
) clean out the broken bits from the bell and the hub assembly.
replace the axle seal and then put new cv in.
do the reverse of the above to reassemble. Sometimes the hub assembly can be a bitch to get it to line up with the splines on the end of the cv but after a few times of doing this you get used to it.
I have done both side in under 40mins including jacking up and removing the wheels to when the jack came back out again.
Things you don`t need to do to change a cv are,
wheel bearings
tie rod ends
brakes or brake lines
fully remove the bottom king pin
Oh and if you are a real cheap arse like myself
![Rolling Eyes :roll:](./images/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif)
you don`t need no 54mm socket, you can use a screw driver on the nut
Also I always got a lot better run out of gen toyota axle seals, the c clip on the inside of the cv is something you will want to carry spares of if you are only carring 1 cv and a bare axle for each side. Oh and a spare hub, I`ve broken 2 in 7 years
Think you said swivell bearings, I`ve never carried them and but have once need them
![cussing :bad-words:](./images/smilies/new_cussing.gif)