Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
broken fuel gauge
broken fuel gauge
Guys i have heard it is a common problem on the gq's to have a stuffed fuel gauge is this correct is there anything i should check before taking it in to get it fixed
www.mudrhino.com.au
Easiest way to check the sender. Remove wire & earth to body. Turn ignition on & if gauge goes to full straight away it and the circuit are working correctly. Replace sender unit as it will have an internal break in the wiring.
The only drawback with this method is it doesnt check for accuracy. There is a special machine to do that which most GOOD sparkys will own.
If the gauge just flat refuses to work then the above method will work.
If nothing happens when you turn on ignition, check the fuses. If the fuses are ok then see a sparky. If the fuse is blown the temperature gauge usually goes bunk too.
Its a waste of time replacing shit if its not diagnosed first.
The only drawback with this method is it doesnt check for accuracy. There is a special machine to do that which most GOOD sparkys will own.
If the gauge just flat refuses to work then the above method will work.
If nothing happens when you turn on ignition, check the fuses. If the fuses are ok then see a sparky. If the fuse is blown the temperature gauge usually goes bunk too.
Its a waste of time replacing shit if its not diagnosed first.
Don't ask me, ask them. I'm just runnin for my life myself.
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
If it works the same as petrol ones take it out of the tank and clean the contacts.
They are a very simple mechanical device, with a float and some electrical contacts.
As the petrol/diesel? level rises, the float rises and makes contact with different contacts, the result being the amount of gas in the tank.
They rarely fail usually, so I'd be surprised if you couldnt just clean the old one up and use it again.
They are a very simple mechanical device, with a float and some electrical contacts.
As the petrol/diesel? level rises, the float rises and makes contact with different contacts, the result being the amount of gas in the tank.
They rarely fail usually, so I'd be surprised if you couldnt just clean the old one up and use it again.
alright needle goes up slowy when earthed out and i mean slow
it takes a good 60sec to get to full tank now it could be because of bad earthing but i not sure
any ideas anyone
buy the way this is petrol and is a extra tank that runs under the drivers side
i think when i get back from interstate its time for fuel tank to come out
it takes a good 60sec to get to full tank now it could be because of bad earthing but i not sure
any ideas anyone
buy the way this is petrol and is a extra tank that runs under the drivers side
i think when i get back from interstate its time for fuel tank to come out
www.mudrhino.com.au
Had same prob with mine. Rang Long Range Automotive, as it's one of their tanks, to ask which sender unit it is and specs for testing. I forget specs but it didn't matter. Sender was faulty and I got one from them for about $60 I think. That was the original Nissan one they used to use in their tanks. They now use VDO.
dwaynes wrote:alright needle goes up slowy when earthed out and i mean slow
it takes a good 60sec to get to full tank now it could be because of bad earthing but i not sure
any ideas anyone
buy the way this is petrol and is a extra tank that runs under the drivers side
i think when i get back from interstate its time for fuel tank to come out
Slow is ok as they have a resistor in them to remove the movement of fuel. If there is no resistor to cause a delay the needle move back & forwards with the fuel (anyone remember HQ Holdens, they all did it).
Sounds as if the serder is gone.
Did you check the circuit in the sender for resistence with the multimeter?
If its open circuit it will be buggered. If it has a circuit it will be ok.
All they are is a series of windings with a non conductive backing. As the float moves up & down it has a strip which completes the circuit. As the strip moves up & down it wars out the windings causing them to break hence the open circuit. This is why some guys are alking about there gauges working for some of the time.
If you still cant work it out I would suggest you get a sparky to look at it, this will save you time & money replacing stuff you dont need to.
Don't ask me, ask them. I'm just runnin for my life myself.
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
The Nissan sender has small plastic clips that hold the arm with float attached in position. Over time, these small plastic clips,in contact with the fuel, wear/bend, allowing the contact on the arm to loose connection with the resistive strip. Its possible, after removing the sender, to carefully heat up the plastic clips and bend them back into shape.
Nick
Nick
Would you like an unbroken one?
I have an unbroken one you can have for $40, and if you were in Sydney you could have the hole tank with it for no extra charge.
Let me know if you need one.
Cheers, Mick
Let me know if you need one.
Cheers, Mick
Chop it drop it and big block it.
I have an LRA tank also and I am about to fit a more accurate gauge, ususally for a boat, see www.cruzpro.com and look under fuel.
Will post a thread if it works, nice to have a gauge that learns the shape of your tank.
I am worried the sender might not be long enough with the LRA but there are plenty of more accurate boat tank senders out there.
Also, its normal for the original gauge to go slow.
With the power off you should see 0-70 ohms between the gauge and ground.
Will post a thread if it works, nice to have a gauge that learns the shape of your tank.
I am worried the sender might not be long enough with the LRA but there are plenty of more accurate boat tank senders out there.
Also, its normal for the original gauge to go slow.
With the power off you should see 0-70 ohms between the gauge and ground.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 3 guests