Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
chopin the ass off my gq!
chopin the ass off my gq!
im thinking off chopin the ass end off my maverick from the tail lights down, i was wondering if anyone has done this and if so was it worth it and is it legal in nsw? i want to do it so it doesnt bottom out on rocks when goin down hill but i dont know if it will do more bad than good, thanks guys
I just had the rear 1/4 chop done on my wagon, it cost me $700 at a local panel beater,
i believe your in Sydney, if you want to have a look let me know,
The company that done it, was excelent, evrone who has seen it has commented on how neat the job turned out, and it was the first one too...........but he said he is willing to do more,
i believe your in Sydney, if you want to have a look let me know,
The company that done it, was excelent, evrone who has seen it has commented on how neat the job turned out, and it was the first one too...........but he said he is willing to do more,
Chop
I had the rear quaters done on my Old shorty about 12 Months ago , Cost $150 with new plates welded in. But needed to paint..$700 a bit steep, I think it is leagel in all states, You will have to check the RTA recomendations for the rear bar........
Road Ranger
Road Ranger
Save some money and have a go yourself mate. grab a ruler and cast your mind back to primary school art class days. measure a straight line across your gaurd where you want them to go. Then measure another line an inch below the one you just did. remove your wireing loom and bumbers outa the way. go but yourself a 4" grinder from supercheap for $49 and also some tinsnips $8 and a tube of sixaflex. Cut the gaurd off around the bottom line right around the gaurd. dont worry about how staight it is because that is not gone be your finished line. Next get tinsnips and slowly cut your neat edge about a centimetre each cut. that way if your lucky your paint wont crack. The back edge has to be done with grinder as its to thick for tinsnips but it really is easy with a bit of time and care. Buy a small sheet of panel steel from your nearset metal shop. make a template out of cardboard or something and trace onto your panel. cut it and then sixaflex it in. Im am by no means a panel beater or a welder. but a within a few hours and a bit of care i cut mine. I look tough! Give it a go mate and when you pull up at the next track and someone admires your cut gaurds you can say " I did that"!
Going to do this myself soon.
Another q while I'm here - has anyone done this with the Nissan tyre carrier fitted? It mounts to the body right above where most ppl would cut. And I've already smashed a rock with this lower mount, so the metal there aint like she used to be. Don't want to weaken it any further.
Really? I found with a grinder I could get okay edges around my wheel arches - but then you have the luxury of folding a lip and/or attaching flares. Anyhow, I'm not concerned about the paint so much, so I think I'll make do with the grinder.Camshaft1 wrote:Next get tinsnips and slowly cut your neat edge about a centimetre each cut. that way if your lucky your paint wont crack.
Now here's the thing that I don't get. Why has noone suggested cutting from the inside instead, top and bottom, and bending the outer flap up and around to meet the freshly cut inside surface? Shape to fit, weld or sikaflex shut, and there you have a smooth curved lower outer surface, with less edges to leak/seal/paint/etc. Only bottom I foresee is that the folded surface may not quite reach right to the front and back edges - must be close though! I'm talking MQ here, but GQ would be similar.Buy a small sheet of panel steel from your nearset metal shop. make a template out of cardboard or something and trace onto your panel. cut it and then sixaflex it in.
Another q while I'm here - has anyone done this with the Nissan tyre carrier fitted? It mounts to the body right above where most ppl would cut. And I've already smashed a rock with this lower mount, so the metal there aint like she used to be. Don't want to weaken it any further.
* Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool *
Posts: 18
Joined: Tue Nov 02, 2004 11:47 pm
Joined: Tue Nov 02, 2004 11:47 pm
Location: Sweden. Distance of 150 kilometres north of artic cirkel.
Contact:
Posts: 18
Joined: Tue Nov 02, 2004 11:47 pm
Joined: Tue Nov 02, 2004 11:47 pm
Location: Sweden. Distance of 150 kilometres north of artic cirkel.
Contact:
Hi.
French!
A am from Sweden and I don’t understand French, but I use the free translation site.
Link to a free translation site. http://www.freetranslation.com/
Regards L-Stefan
French!
A am from Sweden and I don’t understand French, but I use the free translation site.

Link to a free translation site. http://www.freetranslation.com/

Regards L-Stefan
Mate i think he did a top job seen what he did in your photos spent 700 well i would spend the same

ozy1 wrote:pics as requested
$700, was to have both quaters cut, plates welded in, respray from gutter down, and some enginebay welding. have to say it is a top job.
oh, and the guards were opened up a bit for the 35's to clear
[quote="Heathx4"]Going to do this myself soon.
[
.[/quote] Now here's the thing that I don't get. Why has noone suggested cutting from the inside instead, top and bottom, and bending the outer flap up and around to meet the freshly cut inside surface? Shape to fit, weld or sikaflex shut, and there you have a smooth curved lower outer surface, with less edges to leak/seal/paint/etc. Only bottom I foresee is that the folded surface may not quite reach right to the front and back edges - must be close though! I'm talking MQ here, but GQ would be similar.
Yeah that would work mate also. on mine i folded a lip up on the outside edge of the bottom plate that was to be stuck in and placed it in with a decent amount of sixaflex. so that way it looked smooth and also was binded to the panel of the car. strong as buggery. then i drilled a small hole in bottom plate to drain water out. Goodluck family bus it'll all work out
[
.[/quote] Now here's the thing that I don't get. Why has noone suggested cutting from the inside instead, top and bottom, and bending the outer flap up and around to meet the freshly cut inside surface? Shape to fit, weld or sikaflex shut, and there you have a smooth curved lower outer surface, with less edges to leak/seal/paint/etc. Only bottom I foresee is that the folded surface may not quite reach right to the front and back edges - must be close though! I'm talking MQ here, but GQ would be similar.
Yeah that would work mate also. on mine i folded a lip up on the outside edge of the bottom plate that was to be stuck in and placed it in with a decent amount of sixaflex. so that way it looked smooth and also was binded to the panel of the car. strong as buggery. then i drilled a small hole in bottom plate to drain water out. Goodluck family bus it'll all work out
hey guys ,Im also atempting this at the moment. Just a few questions. When you cut them , is it exactly on the bottem line of the indented part of the guard. And if so is the new steel panel butt welded in , or do you sit it in 4 to 5 mm to allow for sealing and filling. Also what steel ? just 2 or 3 mm sheet ?
http://www.biders4wd.com/
http://www.autobalance.com.au/
www.4bfabrications.com.au
http://www.autobalance.com.au/
www.4bfabrications.com.au
Cut uarters
Familybus the advantage in my opinion. Is if you get into some harder tracks with ledges and rocks, you are not going to damage the quarter. As will happen when you hit the lower section and get transfered damage to the whole panel. If you make a solid wrap around rear bar with the cut quarters you tend to slide over obsticles that would otherwise have damaged panel work. Some pics in my members area of my cut if they wern't lost in the crash.
I did mine no regrets and no damage other than some decent scrapes in my tube bar
Dave
I did mine no regrets and no damage other than some decent scrapes in my tube bar
Dave
there were two reasons i had my 1/4s chopped and the guards opened up,
1 - i got 35s, and test flexed, and the hit the guard big time, the resaon for that is slightly longer lower links,
2 - having the guard opened up was all i needed, but that would have involve fixing the damage to the lower 1/4 to make it all neat, why not chop it off at the same time, price was the same if not chearper,
i had a few dents scrapes, and flat sections on the lower 1/4 from sliding over rocks, why not get rid of it while you have the chance, and also when the creases havne migrated further up.
1 - i got 35s, and test flexed, and the hit the guard big time, the resaon for that is slightly longer lower links,
2 - having the guard opened up was all i needed, but that would have involve fixing the damage to the lower 1/4 to make it all neat, why not chop it off at the same time, price was the same if not chearper,
i had a few dents scrapes, and flat sections on the lower 1/4 from sliding over rocks, why not get rid of it while you have the chance, and also when the creases havne migrated further up.
Have a look at the damage doen to my rear quarter int eh 4wd pics thread in general.
The GQ rear quarters are expose and the rear bar is weak. mine has been bent BADLY enought ot cut through my panels due to the force put upon it.
As I dont want to chop my qaurters off Im getting a metal place to fab up some factory looking wrap around rear bumper ends which will be 3mm steel - about 3 times stronger than the original weak stuff.
I dont think it'll be as strong as I want but it's as strong as you'll do without cutting the quarters.
The GQ rear quarters are expose and the rear bar is weak. mine has been bent BADLY enought ot cut through my panels due to the force put upon it.
As I dont want to chop my qaurters off Im getting a metal place to fab up some factory looking wrap around rear bumper ends which will be 3mm steel - about 3 times stronger than the original weak stuff.
I dont think it'll be as strong as I want but it's as strong as you'll do without cutting the quarters.
bagsy wrote:hey guys ,Im also atempting this at the moment. Just a few questions. When you cut them , is it exactly on the bottem line of the indented part of the guard. And if so is the new steel panel butt welded in , or do you sit it in 4 to 5 mm to allow for sealing and filling. Also what steel ? just 2 or 3 mm sheet ?
anyone got advice ??
http://www.biders4wd.com/
http://www.autobalance.com.au/
www.4bfabrications.com.au
http://www.autobalance.com.au/
www.4bfabrications.com.au
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests