redoing head but is the cylinder bore ok as you can see in the photos just want to know if is still ok to put new head on
help would be great
Michael
note: no 4 on the out side has bad piting around the out side
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redoing head but is the cylinder bore ok
redoing head but is the cylinder bore ok
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Depends on what your planning on doing with your truck after you put the head back on? If your selling it or it's just a paddock basher then sure go ahead, but if your planning on touring around quite a few km's and want some reliability then you'll need to resleeve/new pistons & rings minimum, tring to get out of it cheap now could cost big bucks when it shits itself in woop woop!!!!!
Cheers.
Cheers.
well this is just a play 4x4 only really drive on week ends some trips about 1-2000 k's max may be next year i was going to put in a new motor in it hmmm V8 i may even re-do this motor up but all i want is 25000 k's ( 12 -15) more months out it
Ingenious-Eng wrote:Depends on what your planning on doing with your truck after you put the head back on? If your selling it or it's just a paddock basher then sure go ahead, but if your planning on touring around quite a few km's and want some reliability then you'll need to resleeve/new pistons & rings minimum, tring to get out of it cheap now could cost big bucks when it shits itself in woop woop!!!!!
Cheers.
If thats all you want mate slap her back together and send it. she'll keep goin. You'd be surprised what condition they can be in and how well they still run. Cant see your photos really well but if its just marks in your top section of the bore dont worry about it as your rings dont run there anyway.
thanks mate yer it is just under the top lip of the bore no pitting on top of it at all
once again thanks
once again thanks
Camshaft1 wrote:If thats all you want mate slap her back together and send it. she'll keep goin. You'd be surprised what condition they can be in and how well they still run. Cant see your photos really well but if its just marks in your top section of the bore dont worry about it as your rings dont run there anyway.
My TD42 i rebuilt at 550,000km's still had xhatch marks visible on the cyl liners( bores) When i measured the bore diameter with a bore guage, it was still within spec. But i ended up replacing the liners and pistons anyway. When decking the cyl head, make sure you dont go too far as not to exceed the minimum thickness. Usually number 3 headgasket (the thickest one) is the one to use after re-building. Check piston projection..
Nick
Nick
Where the pitting is, is not where the rings run from what I can see. As I said, now you at least have the head off I would drop the pistons, measure everything up. If it measures OK, hone & cross hatch it and put new ringa and bearing in it, only if you are sure of the measurements. When I pulled mine down, one injector had burnt thru the piston and scored the bore and had a lip. The others were near perfect. I was surprised after a honing how it came up. Runs a turbo now after new rings and bearings running 12 PSI. HAs been to bathurst, club trips etc and running sweet as. Done about 15,000 - 20,000 kms so far. Can't say yours will be the same, but you should explore the option first IMO. A reco motor is good, providing you are cashed up. However if it doesn't measure up you could be potentially wasting you money on just rings and bearings. Have you priced a short block?
H@MMeR wrote:can i use some sand paper to try and get it flat or will that just stuff it ???bilby wrote:by the look of the photo the pitting is above the top ring line
the only drama you mite have is the head gasket mite not seal 100 % round that cylinder
in the top of the cylinder should be ok to sandpaper just dont go to crazy on it but on the block deck surface it wouldnt be advised
maybe a thicker head gasket mite do the trick
not too sure . i think HEATH4x4 had a similar problem with his
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... headgasket
just a little left of insanity :)
sweet thanks mate
bilby wrote:H@MMeR wrote:can i use some sand paper to try and get it flat or will that just stuff it ???bilby wrote:by the look of the photo the pitting is above the top ring line
the only drama you mite have is the head gasket mite not seal 100 % round that cylinder
in the top of the cylinder should be ok to sandpaper just dont go to crazy on it but on the block deck surface it wouldnt be advised
maybe a thicker head gasket mite do the trick
not too sure . i think HEATH4x4 had a similar problem with his
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... headgasket
td42 pitting
just wondering how many klms had the donk done?
What do you put the wear down to and did you know the service history b4 you got it?
What do you put the wear down to and did you know the service history b4 you got it?
Re: td42 pitting
Looks like detonation to me, my old TZ racebike used to suffer from this..
mine had the same problem, ussually the liners protrude past the block a little and seal on the head gasket, i put mine back toghether with some pitting and in about 5000k did another head gasket, so i bought another engine, easier and cheaper than a rebuild
turbo deisel LWB, 2inch body, endless air, arb front and rear lockers, 34 JT2s, warn winch, carputer/GPS, working handbreak,
Re: td42 pitting
[quote="bogged"]Looks like detonation to me, my old TZ racebike used to suffer from this..[/quote]
Detonation? that might be gettin a little bit too excited. just nice black piston tops. Just measure the liner protrusion if you are worried mate with feler gauge and a straight edge. then put it up against the factory wear limit specs. Its probably factory height. Its when they start moving down that you worry. a thou or 2 under deck height and your counter bores are knackered. if that was the case it would probably be pressurizing the cooling system which you said on earlyier threads that it wasnt so you will be ok. Bolt your old girl back together and keep drivin her!
Detonation? that might be gettin a little bit too excited. just nice black piston tops. Just measure the liner protrusion if you are worried mate with feler gauge and a straight edge. then put it up against the factory wear limit specs. Its probably factory height. Its when they start moving down that you worry. a thou or 2 under deck height and your counter bores are knackered. if that was the case it would probably be pressurizing the cooling system which you said on earlyier threads that it wasnt so you will be ok. Bolt your old girl back together and keep drivin her!
[quote="H@MMeR"]can i use some sand paper to try and get it flat or will that just stuff it ???
[quote="bilby"]by the look of the photo the pitting is above the top ring line
the only drama you mite have is the head gasket mite not seal 100 % round that cylinder[/quote][/quote]
Is the top of your liner warped hommer? Or just pitted?
[quote="bilby"]by the look of the photo the pitting is above the top ring line
the only drama you mite have is the head gasket mite not seal 100 % round that cylinder[/quote][/quote]
Is the top of your liner warped hommer? Or just pitted?
I hope you drained the block before taking the head off. I saw rust stains around the ringsindicating you may have pulled the head off and filled the bores upwith water?. I have seen the rings jum up therefore no compression so when you go to start the motor it will be a mongrel to get going. No don't go crazy on resurfacing the deck but yes check the deck heights (I doubt it will have changed)
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