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80 series sliders
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
80 series sliders
Hi everyone
Was just wondering if any one has cheezy sliders on an 80 series. There are no pics of them fitted to 80's on the web site. And I wanted to see what they looked like fitted if you could post some pics please.
Cheers
Dave
Was just wondering if any one has cheezy sliders on an 80 series. There are no pics of them fitted to 80's on the web site. And I wanted to see what they looked like fitted if you could post some pics please.
Cheers
Dave
Well I have just finished making a set up here for a guy's 80 series so here's a few teaser pics
Tube the owner already had which is 60 od 5mm wall /the SHS off the chassis is 50x50x4 and the SHS under the sill line is about 2mm thick this was a after thought wanted by the owner I had sugested this earlier but it wasnt until he saw that the sill may still get damaged although i had the 2.1 mm steel checka plate folded in a way that it woulda protected it reasonably .....So anyway i had the otha Shs floatin round work so decided to whack that in there ........................
And Yes these are Heavy ....bolted to chassis in 3 spots although i know some of you wont like where i mounted the front mount too! the upper side of the front radius arm chassis brkt ... the rest of the chassis mounting points have 10mm plate welded to the chassis 130x135 high the plates that bolt level to the bottom of these are 130x100high the bolts used are M12 grade 8.8 's
for those interested i have a shite load more pics but will take time for me to resize them if u want me to emailin to em (be patient if u do as I aint got much time latley)
ANYHOOS PICS
Dan
Tube the owner already had which is 60 od 5mm wall /the SHS off the chassis is 50x50x4 and the SHS under the sill line is about 2mm thick this was a after thought wanted by the owner I had sugested this earlier but it wasnt until he saw that the sill may still get damaged although i had the 2.1 mm steel checka plate folded in a way that it woulda protected it reasonably .....So anyway i had the otha Shs floatin round work so decided to whack that in there ........................
And Yes these are Heavy ....bolted to chassis in 3 spots although i know some of you wont like where i mounted the front mount too! the upper side of the front radius arm chassis brkt ... the rest of the chassis mounting points have 10mm plate welded to the chassis 130x135 high the plates that bolt level to the bottom of these are 130x100high the bolts used are M12 grade 8.8 's
for those interested i have a shite load more pics but will take time for me to resize them if u want me to emailin to em (be patient if u do as I aint got much time latley)
ANYHOOS PICS
Dan
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[b][i] DAN [/i] [/b]
:silly:
:silly:
And as all 80 owners will the know the placement by the YOTA factory of the resonator under the drivers floor phucks up being able to put a decent mount ...we decided on removing the resonator and replacing wif a straight pipe ......and i built the drivers front mount around this will resize some pics showing this ...............
And RV yep no worries
cheers Dan
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[b][i] DAN [/i] [/b]
:silly:
:silly:
Shadow wrote:they look sweet
how much did ya sting the guy for them?
Well put it this way alot cheaper than wat i shoulda stung him for
A body lifted truck would be alot less time consumin as there would be no need to have the chassis supports in the angled and kinked setup ...... but there was still a fair amount of time in building em............ I prob go a bit overboard with appearance and accuracy of where everything is mounted .....but thats just me cant help it ...do it right first time !
I did test em once fitted too but without the sill protecting section fitted and checka plate .......................picked up the side of the 80 wif the fork lift and then jolted it back down to atleast simulate a reasonable hit on them .....
Dan
[b][i] DAN [/i] [/b]
:silly:
:silly:
RV wrote:I think LilBlkDuck has them.
Yeah had em done for the 2" bodylift. I should be getting royalties for the number of of pics that have been posted of the front rear and side bars.
If I had a clue, and could weld I'd have had a crack at them myself. Seeing as i dont I'm silly enough to pay the price.
I did however run the exhaust down the inside of the chassis, ala 105 Series extractors rather than have a bend over the exhaust or miss a support point. Something to think about.
Will look for the pics.. if your still interested.
Lifted, locked, loaded, reduced, rolled, and rowed
FZJ80, 1FZ-FE, A442F, 37's & 5.29's.
FZJ80, 1FZ-FE, A442F, 37's & 5.29's.
about to do do sill protection on my beast b4 my luck runs out. didnt want to use u-bolts so considered welding to chassis. spoke to engineer and he nearly had a heart attack....
NOW I AINT NO ENGINEER BUT apparently by doing so you severely reduce the amount of flex built into the chassis. so next time the truck is all twisted up on the rocks the chassis cant flex at its engineered relief points. this then causes stress on components not designed for such forces leading to component failure or cracking in the chassis. worst case senario excluding human injury/death is the chassis is so badly damaged ur looking for a new 1 to bolt ur body to. now sounds like a slight dramatisation but kinda makes sense.
I wrote a letter to the rta for clarification regarding acceptable fixing procedures, now waiting 4 a reply. In the letter ive also raised the idea if installing crush tubes and bolting a pre fab unit thru them so im keen to hear what they got to say so stay tuned for the solution......
ps: i can c the sliders pictured have welded plates on and i assume youve tapped it in order to bolt them ie, the bolts dont penetrate the chassis ?
NOW I AINT NO ENGINEER BUT apparently by doing so you severely reduce the amount of flex built into the chassis. so next time the truck is all twisted up on the rocks the chassis cant flex at its engineered relief points. this then causes stress on components not designed for such forces leading to component failure or cracking in the chassis. worst case senario excluding human injury/death is the chassis is so badly damaged ur looking for a new 1 to bolt ur body to. now sounds like a slight dramatisation but kinda makes sense.
I wrote a letter to the rta for clarification regarding acceptable fixing procedures, now waiting 4 a reply. In the letter ive also raised the idea if installing crush tubes and bolting a pre fab unit thru them so im keen to hear what they got to say so stay tuned for the solution......
ps: i can c the sliders pictured have welded plates on and i assume youve tapped it in order to bolt them ie, the bolts dont penetrate the chassis ?
A1MAV, Those steps look great!!
As i mentioned in a thread posted here (http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... 319#564319), I'm looking to have some simillar steps fabricated for my GU, in melbourne. I previously had some steps, not unlike these on a SWB Pajero (http://www.jonty-goldin.com/user/jonty/photos/STEP.JPG).
I was hoping that someone might have contact details for a fabricator that could make up something similar (and to the same quality ) as A1MAV's.
All help greatly appreciated...
cheers,
Jonty
As i mentioned in a thread posted here (http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... 319#564319), I'm looking to have some simillar steps fabricated for my GU, in melbourne. I previously had some steps, not unlike these on a SWB Pajero (http://www.jonty-goldin.com/user/jonty/photos/STEP.JPG).
I was hoping that someone might have contact details for a fabricator that could make up something similar (and to the same quality ) as A1MAV's.
All help greatly appreciated...
cheers,
Jonty
GU III 4.8 Auto
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