Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
80 series crap handbrake
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
80 series crap handbrake
Can anyone tell me what i can do to get a desent rear hand brake for my 80.
Mine is an auto so i need a good handbrake when off road but the rear disc with handbrake in the guts is crap, i adjust it just about everytime i need to go on a club trip but this is driving me crazy. even when adjusted it is only ordinary.
Help please??
Mine is an auto so i need a good handbrake when off road but the rear disc with handbrake in the guts is crap, i adjust it just about everytime i need to go on a club trip but this is driving me crazy. even when adjusted it is only ordinary.
Help please??
I can get mine adjusted and it works till I drive the and after a while it's no good. Even shorter time if off roading.
You need to adjust all the adjusters including the lever and the ones behind the backing plate, then adjust the shoes up. This will make it work for a while. I have tried with new shoes and drums and still fails after a short time.
I reckon the cable streches and have added a spacer to the lever adjusted to compensate, but I reckon if you could shorten the cable it may work better for longer?? (I know you can shorten the cable but reckon it's dodgey).
I would also like to hear if anyone has successfully achieved a reliable, long lasting hand brake on an 80.
You need to adjust all the adjusters including the lever and the ones behind the backing plate, then adjust the shoes up. This will make it work for a while. I have tried with new shoes and drums and still fails after a short time.
I reckon the cable streches and have added a spacer to the lever adjusted to compensate, but I reckon if you could shorten the cable it may work better for longer?? (I know you can shorten the cable but reckon it's dodgey).
I would also like to hear if anyone has successfully achieved a reliable, long lasting hand brake on an 80.
80 series, Locked both ends, Q78ed & a massive 57 k/w to boot!!!!
www.autobalance.com.au
www.autobalance.com.au
EVERY trip it gets filled with mud and stops working, it's the biggest pain to clean too as you have to pull the callipers to drop the hubs. The one time I didnt and left it (for 2 weeks between trips, it chewd the pads out to nothing and I had to replace the hubs! Who ever designed the thing should be strung up by the Balls!
Lifted, locked, loaded, reduced, rolled, and rowed
FZJ80, 1FZ-FE, A442F, 37's & 5.29's.
FZJ80, 1FZ-FE, A442F, 37's & 5.29's.
I would not fit a trans brake as in the genuine style on early cruisers ie 40 series then u will have bigger dramas
Unless u cut a small hole in the backing plate to give the hose a spot to go to flush the system out
But make sure that after any type of hosing of brakes u do a test drive especially if the car maybe left for a period of time have heard of the shoes rusting to drums and siezing the brakes up
sounds impossible i know but had been warned of it
Unless u cut a small hole in the backing plate to give the hose a spot to go to flush the system out
But make sure that after any type of hosing of brakes u do a test drive especially if the car maybe left for a period of time have heard of the shoes rusting to drums and siezing the brakes up
sounds impossible i know but had been warned of it
I've raised this on other forums and the Datsun guys reckon their Trans brakes aren't much better either. I find that once I do get the sludge out and adjust it again it works fine, good enough to lock up the rear. but it only takes one decent puddle to undo the good work.
Lifted, locked, loaded, reduced, rolled, and rowed
FZJ80, 1FZ-FE, A442F, 37's & 5.29's.
FZJ80, 1FZ-FE, A442F, 37's & 5.29's.
noticed the handbreak was crap not long after i bought the vehicle so i put in a brand spankers cable. i then noticed the rear n/s disk was getting chewed out. discovered the hub was bent. while changing that i also put on new rear disks...... so allowing for a the handbreak shoes to wear in to the new disks and allowing for stretch in the new cable, ive adjusted it about 7 times in 3 months . soooo over it
Gents
If you want a good handbrake, take my wife.......please.....
really though, playing with the yota brake is a waiste of time, as bigger tyres mean worse brake.....mud = work on it again....
If yours doesnt work and you want it as good as it gets....buy new pads and machine the disc and follow the procedure to the letter on how to adjust it and you will have a good brake till the next mud hole.
Best handbrake is a hydraulic handbrake and everything is good....till rego comes around...they are illegal because if they leak....the car moves.....so unless you change the rear callipers or add another set that are cable actuated, your not going to do any good with the authorities
Sooooooooo the next best thing is a trans brake but make it a disc and run a motorbike cable calliper.....and hope like crap you dont park it on a rock.
I have an auto cruiser and dont need the handbrake at all....
Andrew
If you want a good handbrake, take my wife.......please.....
really though, playing with the yota brake is a waiste of time, as bigger tyres mean worse brake.....mud = work on it again....
If yours doesnt work and you want it as good as it gets....buy new pads and machine the disc and follow the procedure to the letter on how to adjust it and you will have a good brake till the next mud hole.
Best handbrake is a hydraulic handbrake and everything is good....till rego comes around...they are illegal because if they leak....the car moves.....so unless you change the rear callipers or add another set that are cable actuated, your not going to do any good with the authorities
Sooooooooo the next best thing is a trans brake but make it a disc and run a motorbike cable calliper.....and hope like crap you dont park it on a rock.
I have an auto cruiser and dont need the handbrake at all....
Andrew
crap handbrake on 80's
guzzla wrote:just started getting info n parts prices to convert mine to a transmission break. sounds like a few bucks but getting sick of adjusting it after each trip. will keep you posted....
Please pm me if you find any good info for the handbrake. i thought the disc trans brake that superior enginering have for the lux might work but they haven't made one for the 80 .
LilBlkDuck wrote:I've raised this on other forums and the Datsun guys reckon their Trans brakes aren't much better either. I find that once I do get the sludge out and adjust it again it works fine, good enough to lock up the rear. but it only takes one decent puddle to undo the good work.
lol....the trick is not to get stuck in it....lol
has anyone drilled a hole into the rear off the backing plate to allow easier cleaning you could plug it up with a grommet.-not having to remove wheel would make it a little easier to clean. going by the picture haveng that much mud is going to stop the h/brake every time. also you should check the pin that holds the shoes in the bent one tends to straighten out. The adjusters are not locked in any way except for the spring that runs behind them they may work there way back in.
I'm not stuck I'm over here!
Watch where you driven!!!
Watch where you driven!!!
Shadow wrote:i think a trans brake will be the go
atleast ya get a mechanical advantage then (4:1)? should make it a little easier, although the pads will probably wear out quicker? (faster rpm?)
??? Why would the pads on a handbrake wear out. The vehicle should be stopped prior to engaging the brake.
Unless your using it for something other than a hand brake?
Lifted, locked, loaded, reduced, rolled, and rowed
FZJ80, 1FZ-FE, A442F, 37's & 5.29's.
FZJ80, 1FZ-FE, A442F, 37's & 5.29's.
80 series crap hand brake
guzzla wrote:simisy, not long after i started thinking about it did i see that lux setup so i know its possible. give us a week or 2 4 the answers. NO PROBLEMS, ONLY SOLUTIONS.
Tks Guzzla
i haven't seen the lux one exept pics, but it must be possible. (I'm not to keen on putting it in park when on a steep hill as i've heard it may not come out)
Cheers
Simsy
80 series crap hand brake
Rang superior eng. yesterday, they aren't doing one soon as they are to busy.
Bugger
Bugger
Re: 80 series crap hand brake
simsy wrote:Rang superior eng. yesterday
His hilux one is about 500 bucks, so cruiser will be the same.
I can live with a crap hand brake for that money.
www.bolsys.com.au
hand brake
100's have the same shitty set-up
105 series, 35' MTR's, 5'' lift ToughDogs, Twin Locked, Angry Bars, Front Radius arm Flip & X-Thingy.........................
+dj_hansen+ wrote:What about adapting one of the superior etc kits that uses a disc and caliper on the drivetrain.
No one i know with a drum tranmission brake can ever get it to work twice in a row (GQ and 40 series)
GQ/GU handbrakes are bloody good. Only adjusted mine once in 4 years and it is a simple procedure with excellent results.
Custom Barwork
Cages built to CCDA specs
Turbo and intercooler systems for diesel and petrol.......PM me.
Centavic Performance 4WD
Cages built to CCDA specs
Turbo and intercooler systems for diesel and petrol.......PM me.
Centavic Performance 4WD
Re: 80 series crap hand brake
RV wrote:simsy wrote:Rang superior eng. yesterday
His hilux one is about 500 bucks, so cruiser will be the same.
I can live with a crap hand brake for that money.
They don't make one for the cruiser.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 81 guests