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Now I got sum Qs Can sumone with a stock range rover measure the distance between the bumpstops and diff for me and report back (in mm).
Mine at present are
Front - 160mm
Rear - 220mm
I cant flex the thing at the moment cause I need to retaing the front springs as they fall out straight away (since i grinded them down )
But even more to the point the tyres wont clear just yet. until i chop it it wont be set up for maximum flex.
The final setup will be;
4" spring lift or close to the current height
1" body lift and abit more hackin
Really gotta get of my arse and sort out this damn rear diff its still out to the passenger side a whole inch
Anyways just thought i would show you the junk as it is today
why the hell would you go and fit these tyres when your shit aint even right...
surely you would want your rig setup correctly i.e. ride height, axle located correctly etc......
Get your POS riding right mate... what is the point of fitting the tyres if you cant wheel them...
Oh sorry forgot.... this is AnthonyP we talking about...
just plain Grimace
landy_man wrote:why the hell would you go and fit these tyres when your shit aint even right... surely you would want your rig setup correctly i.e. ride height, axle located correctly etc......
Get your POS riding right mate... what is the point of fitting the tyres if you cant wheel them...
Oh sorry forgot.... this is AnthonyP we talking about... just plain Grimace
Hey Anthony what diffs axles and CV are you running to turn those floaties I wouldn't worry about the springs to much you could just raise or lower the psi to level it out
how the heck do you get the rear diff 10mm over one way with a A-frame setup ????
A bent trailing arm mount?
My driver's side has split from the chassis rail and is bent 14mm forwards compared to the passenger side mount!
And no, i'm not driving it either! Waiting to get it cut and re-welded.
On another note Anthony, might be easier to extend the bump stops temporarily to stop rubbing on compression.
Should be pretty easy, just longer bolts and some rubber inbetween existing bump stop and the chassis rail.
Anthony, are both your rear wheels the same offset. I knew a bloke a few years ago that was driven crazy trying to work out why the r/h rear wheel protruded over 1'' more than the left on his Landey He said he took all sorts of measurements and was about to put the truck on a winch rack to bend the chassis, when I noticed he had different offset white spokers left to right. That was a lucky save.
Bill.
Ok allt he bushes are fine the problem is when i bought this diff off surfection it had previously tore the aframe mount formt he diff, and the monkey welded it back on almost a whole inch to far to the drivers side
landy_man wrote:why the hell would you go and fit these tyres when your shit aint even right... surely you would want your rig setup correctly i.e. ride height, axle located correctly etc......
Get your POS riding right mate... what is the point of fitting the tyres if you cant wheel them...
Oh sorry forgot.... this is AnthonyP we talking about... just plain Grimace
D00d relax.... how do i know whats correct if i dont have the tires to mould my travel & guards around I will go wheeling this weekend if I can get the temporary springs retained and the 1" body lift in
Ok allt he bushes are fine the problem is when i bought this diff off surfection it had previously tore the aframe mount formt he diff, and the monkey welded it back on almost a whole inch to far to the drivers side
Wasnt impressed but meh I dont care
Fix it dont be slack.
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
Ok allt he bushes are fine the problem is when i bought this diff off surfection it had previously tore the aframe mount formt he diff, and the monkey welded it back on almost a whole inch to far to the drivers side
Wasnt impressed but meh I dont care
Fix it dont be slack.
Michael.
I got a whole new diff housing here but cause i decided to go nuts and do all this other shit I am just gonna temp booty fab the current one.
Gonna see if i can get it donw friday arvo (I mean really booty style) and then just hack the guards and try fit the 1" BL and go out for a play
Davidh wrote:On another note Anthony, might be easier to extend the bump stops temporarily to stop rubbing on compression. Should be pretty easy, just longer bolts and some rubber inbetween existing bump stop and the chassis rail.
I am doin this aswell But i was gonna go a much harder way about it (cause I am dumb) thanks for the logical thinkin
just watch the drive line (axles) have fun. Michael.
Thanks Michael,
I myself am still bloody amazed my driveshafts havnt shit emselves yet And yes I am currently makin plans / offer on seelin my Maxis and doin the toy centre conversion and just gonna weld the rear After that me thinks she will be all sweet........ BUT..............
I need a crawler box still
Like I said on AULRO it looks great, but not my cup of tea
I guess I'm a bit more conservative in tyre department, plus I don't have the patience or time with all the lift/clerance issues, but since you don't drive it daily (I drive Thomas daily, have no choice) you can spend time and try to get it right
(since i grinded them down 
)
etc......
I wouldn't worry about the springs to much you could just raise or lower the psi to level it out 
But i was gonna go a much harder way about it (cause I am dumb) thanks for the logical thinkin 
