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Bubs/ Aza I noticed you did not factor lengthening rear propshaft into your prices? To explain to those not aware the IFS rears have centre pin in different position to std rears, which moves diff rearwards about 2 inches from stock.
Is it possible to do it without moving your diff rearwards?? [/b][/quote]
THE REAR DIFF WILL BE MOVED REAR WOULD, this is becuase of how the spring is made, u could redrill the perches but thats alot more work on top of that and it is not needed. the rear drive shaft does not have to be lengthened as the stock one is long enough to cater for the diff movement, its about 1-1.5" that the diff gets moved. just think.... gives u a better depature angle
98 Xtra Cab Lux.... slowly filling up with the Budscustoms Catalogue : Street, Track & Trail - Parts & Fabrication Budscustoms Facebook Page
shit stuff is cheap in queensland i just brought longer shackles and they where half your budget
Mate make them yourself, i just made some 200mm eye to eye shackles and the metal cost me $16 and a couple of hours work. Thats 50mm x 10mm plate 4 pieces at a total length of 260mm, and 2 bits of 50x50x3 SHS out of the $2 bin. Bolts will be a bit more on top of this but beats the inflated prices you pay for bought shackles.
shit stuff is cheap in queensland i just brought longer shackles and they where half your budget
Mate make them yourself, i just made some 200mm eye to eye shackles and the metal cost me $16 and a couple of hours work. Thats 50mm x 10mm plate 4 pieces at a total length of 260mm, and 2 bits of 50x50x3 SHS out of the $2 bin. Bolts will be a bit more on top of this but beats the inflated prices you pay for bought shackles.
as long as u have the right tools and have a fair idea of what u r doing, then this would be your cheapest option. but not everyone is confident enough to make there own suspension parts, so really its up to the person. to make there own and help they are good enough for the job, or pay the price and be 95% sure they will work well and are decently made (as in holes inline, decent welds, etc) and it takes no time at all. but if u are pretty confident then making ur own is the way to go
98 Xtra Cab Lux.... slowly filling up with the Budscustoms Catalogue : Street, Track & Trail - Parts & Fabrication Budscustoms Facebook Page
shit stuff is cheap in queensland i just brought longer shackles and they where half your budget
Mate make them yourself, i just made some 200mm eye to eye shackles and the metal cost me $16 and a couple of hours work. Thats 50mm x 10mm plate 4 pieces at a total length of 260mm, and 2 bits of 50x50x3 SHS out of the $2 bin. Bolts will be a bit more on top of this but beats the inflated prices you pay for bought shackles.
as long as u have the right tools and have a fair idea of what u r doing, then this would be your cheapest option. but not everyone is confident enough to make there own suspension parts, so really its up to the person. to make there own and help they are good enough for the job, or pay the price and be 95% sure they will work well and are decently made (as in holes inline, decent welds, etc) and it takes no time at all. but if u are pretty confident then making ur own is the way to go
Yes very true, it helps having a pedistal drill, but if you take care to keep things matched up and triple check your measurements a hand drill will do. Im welding with an arc welder, just need to practice to get it right (this is where the $2 bin comes in handy also )
i think u mis the sarcasium in the part where i said gives a better depature angle which it does and i would prefer to have a longer wheel base to have a better departure angle cuase i dont like scrubbing my ass every where btw u can say that also about moving ur front axle forward, to get a better approach angle. works both ways. i know what i would prefer to have
haha alot of winks in this post, hopefully grimace dont get the wrong idea
98 Xtra Cab Lux.... slowly filling up with the Budscustoms Catalogue : Street, Track & Trail - Parts & Fabrication Budscustoms Facebook Page
Aza wrote:THE REAR DIFF WILL BE MOVED REAR WOULD, this is becuase of how the spring is made, u could redrill the perches but thats alot more work on top of that and it is not needed. the rear drive shaft does not have to be lengthened as the stock one is long enough to cater for the diff movement, its about 1-1.5" that the diff gets moved. just think.... gives u a better depature angle
So this means if you redrill the rear spring perches you could have this setup using a styleside tray without having to swap it over for a flat tray as the wheel will sit in the same spot?
Aza wrote:THE REAR DIFF WILL BE MOVED REAR WOULD, this is becuase of how the spring is made, u could redrill the perches but thats alot more work on top of that and it is not needed. the rear drive shaft does not have to be lengthened as the stock one is long enough to cater for the diff movement, its about 1-1.5" that the diff gets moved. just think.... gives u a better depature angle
So this means if you redrill the rear spring perches you could have this setup using a styleside tray without having to swap it over for a flat tray as the wheel will sit in the same spot?
its more work and really not worth it, a flat tray would give u a better departure angle anyway, it also increases the amount of panel u r going to smash
98 Xtra Cab Lux.... slowly filling up with the Budscustoms Catalogue : Street, Track & Trail - Parts & Fabrication Budscustoms Facebook Page
i think u mis the sarcasium in the part where i said gives a better depature angle which it does and i would prefer to have a longer wheel base to have a better departure angle cuase i dont like scrubbing my ass every where btw u can say that also about moving ur front axle forward, to get a better approach angle. works both ways. i know what i would prefer to have
haha alot of winks in this post, hopefully grimace dont get the wrong idea
