Maxis Drive Installation

[GRIMACE]

Ok people I decided to change that rear maxi into the new housing so my rear diff wont be out a whole inch anymore due to the aframe mount bein rewelded in the wrong spot.

A couple of Qs

1) Removing the short side axle (with the locking dog spline.... well what is needed to be removed to get this out ? ? ? The long side slides right out no worries but the short side seems to come to an abrupt halt at what i beleive is the locking dog splines

2) Regarding the bearings and other stuff do i need to swap them over aswell cause the later style housing has all the bearings and they are all good.

3) Regarding the Actuator block that is to be welded to the diff... I am just gonna grind the one off the old housing and make a whole in the new housing in the same position and re weld it right back on.... is this ok ? ? ?

I really wanna get this all done as I wanna go wheeling tomorrow afternoon I was orignally just gonna grind off the old aframe mount and move it but the old housing is bootyfabbed enough and the shock mounts are wrong and its not a flat bottom style so i thought may aswell use the new housing seeing as its just sitting here

While i have the diff open and the maxi drive out does any want any specs or dimensions ? ? ?


Cheers
Anthony

P.S. If anyone is on the gold coast and is willing or would like to come round and give us a hand or point us in the right directions please feel free to call me 0432 511 855

[Aquarangie]

Anthony,

I'll answer your q's in order to make life easier

1- You will have to remove the stub axle to remove the short axle. The locking dog fouls on this and you can't remove it as per standard. I remember mal told ne you could engage the diff lock and pull the axle out, but since you are swaping the lot over this would be the best option.

2- The later stub axle is shorter and you will be better off using this 9the washer is flat, not a grooved one like earlier rangies) Try and maintain as much as the 89 vintage flanges, hubs, stubs, etc.. this will make servicing much easier.

3- You could cut the old block off, but the dog clutch may be too long and it would be worth just buying a newie from Mal for all the trouble it's worth. Also be careful you don't bend the housing while you are welding the new block on. Do a bit at a time to advoid your housing bend like a banana

I though about fitting my front one DIY but the fact that I needed to have my Rangie on-road, lack the welding expertise and time I paid for mine to be fitted. If I had the time and it wasn't a daily driver I would have certainly done it myself.

Good luck with it.

Trav

[GRIMACE]

Ok i was kinda hoping i didnt have to remove the wheel hub bearings to get this short side axle (with locking dog splines) out of the diff housing :(

I have the outer Hub still attached to the axle (like a standard rover unit is permanently attached). I just cant see why the locking dog spline would be getting caugt on the bearings or sumething of the like....? does this mean I have to:
1) remove the outer Hub from the axle (while still in the diff housing)
2) slide axle out partially and knock back the locking plate and remove the two locking nuts that hold the inner hub and bearings in place
3) slide the nuts and bearings completely off the outer end of the axle

this wshould set the whole system free and in about 74363 peices i was just really really hoping to slide the bastard out and then slide him back in

Now regarding the bearings obviously there is a certain preset they need to be set at ? ? ? cant just tighten them right up upon installation and drive away without expecting them to fail in a short period of time.

thanks for the info so far Aqua rangie

bye the way i am talking botu the rear axle only

[RUFF]

Anthony if you are not confident enough to remove a set of wheelbearings and re-fit them then i realy dont think you will have any success in swapping a Maxi Drive over to another housing. I think your going to need to pay someone to do this. Sorry.

[Aquarangie]

Anthony if you are not confident enough to remove a set of wheelbearings and re-fit them then i realy dont think you will have any success in swapping a Maxi Drive over to another housing. I think your going to need to pay someone to do this. Sorry.

I have to agree here.

I paid for mine to be done mainly for that reason plus time as I said was an issue.

Sometimes it's cheaper to have it done professionally than piss about DIY if you don't have the skills/equipment/expertise to do so.

Trav

[GRIMACE]

Anthony if you are not confident enough to remove a set of wheelbearings and re-fit them then i realy dont think you will have any success in swapping a Maxi Drive over to another housing. I think your going to need to pay someone to do this. Sorry.

its not confidence its the fact i didnt wanna be piss fart arsing around so much.

And basically what you have confirmed is that i will have to remove them right I might swap em all completely over then. as i know the ones in the MD setup are fairly new where the ones in the 89 model housing i bought are unknown condition and age (thou they seem alright).

I JUST WANNA GO TO ORMEAU

[GRIMACE]

Anthony if you are not confident enough to remove a set of wheelbearings and re-fit them then i realy dont think you will have any success in swapping a Maxi Drive over to another housing. I think your going to need to pay someone to do this. Sorry.

I have to agree here.

I paid for mine to be done mainly for that reason plus time as I said was an issue.

Sometimes it's cheaper to have it done professionally than piss about DIY if you don't have the skills/equipment/expertise to do so.

Trav

I also agree but as i said its not confidence that was hindering my progress, I also enjoy doin things myself (with guidance) as its the only real way to learn.... at least now if i bust sumthing offroad I have the knowledge and knowhow to fix it

I will hopefully be pulling the front diff apart in the next month or so to fit the maxi drive locking actuator and learn how it all works aswell

[GRIMACE]

another question

the whole that is to be made for the locking actuator... does it have to be set in a very very specific location or can i just eyeball engineer it

On the old housing it seemed to be sitting just lower then dead centre I though it may have to be more on dead centre so am thinking you have 3-4mm to play with either way...?

Almost done just gotta get this whole in the right spot and weld away... any tips on welding to minimise the risk of warping the housing ? ? ?

I know i can do a very little bit at a time but anything else i may find usefull would be much appreciated

w00t finally gonna have this rear diff drama fixed w00t

[red90]

Go into the D90 Yahoo group. The installation instructions are scanned and posted there.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/d90/

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/d90/files/maxi/

[GRIMACE]

Go into the D90 Yahoo group. The installation instructions are scanned and posted there.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/d90/

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/d90/files/maxi/

orsum thanks heaps, had been looking for a instalation online thing but couldnt find any.

edit: OK this isnt gonna help i had to register and now i still cant get on have to wait for a moderators aprroval
anyways i just gonna booty fab it all

[daddylonglegs]

The reason the difflock axle won't come out through the spindle is that the spline that the difflock dog rides on is larger in diameter than the hole in the spindle, so you must unbolt the spindle. once you have it all apart take accurate measurements from the diff retaining studs on the banjo housing to determin where the difflock actuator mount should be welded on.. You have a lot of work ahead of you and I doubt you will be wheeling it tomorrow.
Bill.

[GRIMACE]

The reason the difflock axle won't come out through the spindle is that the spline that the difflock dog rides on is larger in diameter than the hole in the spindle, so you must unbolt the spindle. once you have it all apart take accurate measurements from the diff retaining studs on the banjo housing to determin where the difflock actuator mount should be welded on.. You have a lot of work ahead of you and I doubt you will be wheeling it tomorrow.
Bill.

You will be surprised
and yeah it was a pain in the arse grinding out that block from the old axle housing.

My uncle (metal worker by trade) is gonna weld up the block tommroow mourning them i just start bungin it all back together, everything is preped and ready for him to weld so should be done b4 lunch time and out at ormeau ready to wheel

[GRIMACE]

w00t its done it works and i have been out ormeau to test it.... I must say its made a drifference having that diff back to its proper centre location now I need to get shocks sorted out as the nissan temp one that became permanent is way to short.

The locker seems to be activating and deactivating just fine w00t

I also got to test out the creepys but had no gauge to check pressure and my stauns are fcuckecd thought i had them low enough but had to guess and turns out they wernt as my tyre pressure was 16psi and I only wanna be running 10psi off road. gotta find where i left my gauge.

Will hopefully be doin the same to the front in a month or so

[TuffRR]

Good work Anthony.

[GRIMACE]

Good work Anthony.

thanks d00d

I also sleeved my rear trailing arms just incase the rear end bites traction and instead of the trailing arms leting go and ripping everything else with them I think the crown wheel will just say good night but I think i will have these Maxis front and rear forsale soon as I wanna go the toy centre conversion and need the $$$ from the current axles to build the next ones

Also wanna go another inch offset in the rims as I want abit more stance, but thats a nother seperate story