Attention Bazzle or anyone who knows what they are talking about and are very helpfull.
I have justa noticed a fair old leak coming from my brake master cylinder, I am aware that a repair kit exists and am going to go and get one. I learned this from doing a search !!! yay searching works....
But my concern is that my vehicle originally had a drum brake rear end that I replaced with a Factory Locker disc housing. I am wondering whether the leak is 'somehow' caused by the master cylinder not being upgraded ??? I don't know if it even needs to be ?? I personally can not find any information suggesting that master cylinders are different from vehicle to vehicle.
Now as far as the kit is concerned....
Genuine or Aftermarket ?
How hard to remove/replace with the new seals etc ?
Any tips with Bleeding the master cylinder ?
I have a comprehensive gregorys workshop manual but any extra advice is alwayz handy.
Cheers Folks,
JEremy
Looking forward to Tuff Truck yay !!!
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Brake Master Cylinder Leaking. Bazzle look here : )
Brake Master Cylinder Leaking. Bazzle look here : )
[quote="MSCHIF"]SPUA its like shaving a barbie dolls head, amusing but pointless.[/quote]
I brought a genuine clutch piston kit from Nissan and it was pretty cheap. Couldnt imagine the brake piston kit to be much more. Very easy to repair to. As I did myself with out any troubles. If the cyclinder is scored (got a scratch in it) they can be honed out and have a Stainless sleve pushed. My clutch need this as well.
THOUGHT FOR THE DAY....
Just get the kit for your master cyl and replace .
Blled the master cyl off the vehicle.
If your lucky the pipes will still be full of fluid and will bleed easily after conn.
Just allow a bit to weep from the connections under gravity.
A master cyl can leak if the reservoir gets low and the many years of crap in the bottom gets disterbed when topping up or general bleeding.
bazzle
Blled the master cyl off the vehicle.
If your lucky the pipes will still be full of fluid and will bleed easily after conn.
Just allow a bit to weep from the connections under gravity.
A master cyl can leak if the reservoir gets low and the many years of crap in the bottom gets disterbed when topping up or general bleeding.
bazzle
Posts: 3523
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Location: Somewhere they can't reach me, shoot me or electrocute me...
The manual states the master cylinder cannot be honed, but sleeving is okay. That said, all the cylinders I have honed without sleeving have never had a problem. I am painfully meticulous in my procedures so I takes my risks...
The aftermarket kits are fine, take note of the way the cups face on the pistons if you don;t have a detailed manual, they face a certain way on re assembly.
There are two pistons, the primary and the secondary. The primary is the one closest to the booster, the secondary closest to the front of the vehicle. The cups on the primary piston face forwards towards the spring ie: both face the same direction. The cups on the secondary piston face opposite each other ie: one facing the spring and the other facing the primary piston spring. If you have any problems I can scan a pic of the assembly.
The aftermarket kits are fine, take note of the way the cups face on the pistons if you don;t have a detailed manual, they face a certain way on re assembly.
There are two pistons, the primary and the secondary. The primary is the one closest to the booster, the secondary closest to the front of the vehicle. The cups on the primary piston face forwards towards the spring ie: both face the same direction. The cups on the secondary piston face opposite each other ie: one facing the spring and the other facing the primary piston spring. If you have any problems I can scan a pic of the assembly.
Built, not bought.
bought a second hand one from Southern 4x4 about 8mths ago off a wrecked late model GQ ute for $60.
Half hour to change and bleed and off I went.......
Somethimes it is not worth the hassle to end up having to go out and buy new or second hand anyway cause yours may just be tool shagged to fix.
my 2c worth
James
Half hour to change and bleed and off I went.......
Somethimes it is not worth the hassle to end up having to go out and buy new or second hand anyway cause yours may just be tool shagged to fix.
my 2c worth
James
Just as a FYI note
90% of bleeding after a new install are dead easy take about 20mins
The other 10% are ShortyIQ sods. After doing a few vehicles I have learnt the following two methods (after all else failed - this worked!)
1.
Bleed out a small amout of fluid from the lines at the slave cylinders before changing a brake master cylinder. This removes the dirty fluid. Occassionally after changing a master cylinder you may get an air lock in the lines. To fix all you have to do is pump brake fluid from the one rear slave and one front slave back to the master cylinder. (This is why you bleed the slaves first.) We used an old garden pressure spray pack with the spray arm removed and only the rubber hose left to push over the bleed nipple. Only about 40ml of fluid needs to be pumped back to clear an air lock.
2.
An alternative way is to lift the front of the vehicle about half a metre in the air and compress the brake pedal to the floor and use something to wedge it there. (A steering lock or length of wood between the seat and pedal does the trick.) Then leave the vehicle there over night. This allows the air under pressure to work its way back up to the master cylinder.
Either method works well. The first is just a lot quicker and a guarantees that the system is properly bled. Also method 1 will work for clutch lines (not that I have ever had any trouble)
90% of bleeding after a new install are dead easy take about 20mins
The other 10% are ShortyIQ sods. After doing a few vehicles I have learnt the following two methods (after all else failed - this worked!)
1.
Bleed out a small amout of fluid from the lines at the slave cylinders before changing a brake master cylinder. This removes the dirty fluid. Occassionally after changing a master cylinder you may get an air lock in the lines. To fix all you have to do is pump brake fluid from the one rear slave and one front slave back to the master cylinder. (This is why you bleed the slaves first.) We used an old garden pressure spray pack with the spray arm removed and only the rubber hose left to push over the bleed nipple. Only about 40ml of fluid needs to be pumped back to clear an air lock.
2.
An alternative way is to lift the front of the vehicle about half a metre in the air and compress the brake pedal to the floor and use something to wedge it there. (A steering lock or length of wood between the seat and pedal does the trick.) Then leave the vehicle there over night. This allows the air under pressure to work its way back up to the master cylinder.
Either method works well. The first is just a lot quicker and a guarantees that the system is properly bled. Also method 1 will work for clutch lines (not that I have ever had any trouble)
Posts: 3523
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Joined: Sun May 18, 2003 8:42 pm
Location: Somewhere they can't reach me, shoot me or electrocute me...
rOd wrote:
My question is, are there meant to be more parts in the kit?
All I got in mine are 4 x rubber seals. Its a non-genuine kit.
Should also have the seals for the fluid storage cups to cylinder mating surface. but if they are not leaking/cracked/deformed it's not a big issue.
Built, not bought.
.......
Just did this then with my old boy... Took about 50mins max.
I actually bought a full genuine pistion repair kit. Which cost money $160. The only reason I did this over purchasing just new seals was due to the fact that the car is and 88 model. All of the Peripheral things are starting to let go, like pwr steering pumps, water pumps... and this is one of the last few things that can be replaced... other than clutch !!! argghh.
It was quite easy...
I uncliped the Wire Connection.
Undid the Brake Lines with a 10mm spanner.
Undid the Bolts holding the master cylinder to the black thing ?? with a 12mm ratchet.
Yanked the Thing out.
Tipped all of the fluid out ran water through it and cleaned with metho.
Prised the end cap off with flat head screwdriver..
Sanded the outside of the cylinder to make it shiny again..
Cleaned some more and dried it fairly well.
Used dads hone (I think it was a hone... it atached to the drill) to clean the cylinder.
Lubed Cylinder with Brake Fluid. Lubed Pistons inserted. Put in vice and sat end cap in and bent down locking flaps ??
Cleaned the mating surface really well.
Attached everything.
Bled entire system starting at the load sensing valve. Did this 3 times to get rid of all the shite...
Road tested...
As people were saying it would be quite easy to just replace the seals on the pistons inside the cylinder. Just yank them out take them to a brake shop and tell them what you want.. Wouldn't cost much...
Thanks for your help folks..
Cheers,
Jeremy
I actually bought a full genuine pistion repair kit. Which cost money $160. The only reason I did this over purchasing just new seals was due to the fact that the car is and 88 model. All of the Peripheral things are starting to let go, like pwr steering pumps, water pumps... and this is one of the last few things that can be replaced... other than clutch !!! argghh.
It was quite easy...
I uncliped the Wire Connection.
Undid the Brake Lines with a 10mm spanner.
Undid the Bolts holding the master cylinder to the black thing ?? with a 12mm ratchet.
Yanked the Thing out.
Tipped all of the fluid out ran water through it and cleaned with metho.
Prised the end cap off with flat head screwdriver..
Sanded the outside of the cylinder to make it shiny again..
Cleaned some more and dried it fairly well.
Used dads hone (I think it was a hone... it atached to the drill) to clean the cylinder.
Lubed Cylinder with Brake Fluid. Lubed Pistons inserted. Put in vice and sat end cap in and bent down locking flaps ??
Cleaned the mating surface really well.
Attached everything.
Bled entire system starting at the load sensing valve. Did this 3 times to get rid of all the shite...
Road tested...
As people were saying it would be quite easy to just replace the seals on the pistons inside the cylinder. Just yank them out take them to a brake shop and tell them what you want.. Wouldn't cost much...
Thanks for your help folks..
Cheers,
Jeremy
[quote="MSCHIF"]SPUA its like shaving a barbie dolls head, amusing but pointless.[/quote]
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