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no low range after body lift
no low range after body lift
ive done a 2inch body lift on my GQ, cant quite get it into low range, whats the best option, A-cut an inch out of the floor pan, or B-somehow bend the stick, how have you guys overcome this, is the stick easy to bend, Can it be done while its still in the truck, or is it easier to trim the floor pan, i reckon i only need an extra 10mm
I hacked the crap out of the floor pan on mine. But will be putting in bent shifters when I change gearboxs (mines stuffed- Dan if you read this I will phone you tommorow).
Have heard it is possible to bend them on the car. Just need to put a wet rag around the bottom of the shifter and heat up with the oxy. Juzza should be able to answer the question better, hes the one that told me about it.
Have heard it is possible to bend them on the car. Just need to put a wet rag around the bottom of the shifter and heat up with the oxy. Juzza should be able to answer the question better, hes the one that told me about it.
THOUGHT FOR THE DAY....
Re: no low range after body lift
cut a V out of the floor easier quicker and you dont remove the shifta.
Take the shifter off (one bolt & disconnection of the linkage) then cut it and weld in an extenion. A bit more work but your shifter stays the right hieght relative to your transmission tunnel and your noise and dirt boots still fit as originally designed.
I didn't have access to a welder and got a local fabricator to do it for $40.
MEX
I didn't have access to a welder and got a local fabricator to do it for $40.
MEX

SWB MAVERICK
Re: no low range after body lift
how does your ruber go though, will it allow water throughbogged wrote:cut a V out of the floor easier quicker and you dont remove the shifta.
Re: no low range after body lift
hi-luxmadness wrote:how does your ruber go though, will it allow water throughbogged wrote:cut a V out of the floor easier quicker and you dont remove the shifta.
no issues with mine as far as I know, and Ive been bonnet deep more than once
that floorpan surroundin the shifter is a removable piece...
so.. just hack away.. and if you fawk up.. or want to take the body lift out, or etc... just buy a new one from wreckers for 10 bux...
a V shape like bogged said is the way to go and put silicone around the rubber to ensure a watertight seal.
so.. just hack away.. and if you fawk up.. or want to take the body lift out, or etc... just buy a new one from wreckers for 10 bux...
a V shape like bogged said is the way to go and put silicone around the rubber to ensure a watertight seal.
this sounds like the easiest way to go, extending the stick is not really an issue, im 6foot4 tall and have long arms too, so i dont have any probs reaching it, ill have a crack at it on the weekend, thanks for the replies folksGQ wrote:that floorpan surroundin the shifter is a removable piece...
so.. just hack away.. and if you fawk up.. or want to take the body lift out, or etc... just buy a new one from wreckers for 10 bux...
a V shape like bogged said is the way to go and put silicone around the rubber to ensure a watertight seal.
its easier to have one person in the car one under it with a oxy just bend it forward abit ive done it 5 times now ive had water and mud over my front head lights, and no water at all came in through there, and i have 5inchs of lift in the spring 2 in the body and 36 simexs the only place that i get water in through is those little vents at the back of the cab on my ute and somewhere behind the kick panel.
a pootrol
Mark2 wrote:I'm looking at doing a little 30mm body lift on my ute. Am I I likely to have any issues with shift levers, steering shafts etc with a lift this small?
May still need to notch the hole for the transfer lever. May also be able to move the shifter surround back slightly.
THOUGHT FOR THE DAY....
GQ wrote:that floorpan surroundin the shifter is a removable piece...
so.. just hack away.. and if you fawk up.. or want to take the body lift out, or etc... just buy a new one from wreckers for 10 bux...
a V shape like bogged said is the way to go and put silicone around the rubber to ensure a watertight seal.
you still need to cut into the the floorpan, not just the surround.
i cut a v notch, about 1" long into the floor, then moved the floor sealing boot and surround back untill it just covered the front, and tec screwed it in place. dunno about water tightness, but i still have to pull the lever up to properly engage the lockout when in low range, or it can sometimes fall out of low range.
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