Zook buggy ideas - need feedback

[sierrajim]

Well i'm now looking at building a buggy for a bit of fun. To make it interesting it will be built to a budget, aiming for a spend of less than $3,000.

The rough specs are as follows.

Either 1.0ltr or 1.3ltr Zook donk, possibly corolla - need to buy

1.0ltr transfer (have it)

WT diffs probably with 5.12's - need to buy

TJ stock coils front and rear should be cheap as they would be often removed for lift kits

4 link rear

Not sure about front (need ideas, the more i read the more confused i get)

34x10.5/15 Swamper LTB's (cheap) on alloys (have these already)

Tube chassis (have steel here already, left overs)

Sierra seats (have them here already, left overs)

Plastic fuel cell or other small light weight tank ( need to get )

Radiator, thermos etc etc all here as left overs from other projects.

Basically need any ideas or feed back that anyone maybe able to provide as i want to get all of the parts here, checked, rebuilt if needed before i build it. Also want to have an almost exact idea of the finished product so that i don't have to change too much later.

[christover1]

Maybe run it as a dedicated lpg .... no more carb probs, no need for compliance plating if not for road use, so it maybe cheaper than efi?. Runs on any angle, and can be tuned for very little power loss if not want it to run on petrol at all. Can use very small gas bottle if only for comp use. A quick change over system, as in many fork lifts, can be your jerry can alternative.

5:12's and wt diffs can be a lot of dollars.

1.0 litre diffs are much smaller, so better ground clearance, therefore cheaper tyre sizes achieve same result. Also they are much cheaper, as few want them, and you can get 4:9 or 4:6 ratios for them real cheap (4:9's in mine)
width can be achieved with big offset on rims, or wheel spacers...bearings seem to cope ok.
If buggy is light, strength should be fine.

If not light then 1.3 diffs be better.
Even nt 1.3 diffs are much cheaper and can use offsets or spacers.

Alloy rims may be too light, I think on such a light vehicle you may want a bit more weight to hold the wheels down (just a theory, could be talkin out my **** )

I can't wait to see it in action
Frog may be buggied in the future, when all the panel work is past it
christover

[Gonzo]

Either 1.0ltr or 1.3ltr Zook donk, possibly corolla - need to buy

Plastic fuel cell or other small light weight tank ( need to get )

How about a vit donk?
Can throw in free fuel tank too

[nicbeer]

Sell him ya diffs as well gonzo.


cheers

[-Mick-]

Sounds good I think christovers idea of lpg is really suitable for this application

I have a really good corolla 1.3 + 5 speed coming out of my zook right now being replaced with 1.3 efi

Also have good 1l nt diffs all complete which I just swapped out for wt's

Pm me if any of it interests you. I don't want the earth for them.... leaves heaps for the rest of the project

[sierrajim]

Thanks for all of the offers on parts guys, but i think freight maybe the killer on the budget.

Have just remembered that i have a set of 35" claws, probably a little bigger than i wanted but have them already, more room in the budget.

Gas would be a good idea, question how would i be able to get a system to work with the proposed engine?

There will be no need for gas compliance etc but would have to be safe (obviously). I'd be sure that gas systems would be cheap at the wreckers but it's a matter of getting it to work properley.

[antt]

i'd seriously spend 1/3 of the 3k on a set of lux diffs, then u can just weld em both up and shouldnt have any probs breaking anything with the 35in claws

[sierrajim]

I've thought of that too. However this is more of a building project. The main aim is to see if i can meet the $$$.

It won't take much at a later stage to swap in Lux diffs.

Future plans are air shocks possibly lux diffs at the same time. But for the moment want to build on mostly zook drivetrain.

Thinking auto as well.

[christover1]

Corrolla 4K would be a better choice if you wish for an auto. They were available in aus in great numbers, (70's thru to late 80's I think) and use a tri matic auto, similar to the ever plentiful early holden ones. Quite cheap and reliable, and loads available. 3K is a bit gutless for an auto, and altho 5K is a very good donk, its a bit rare and therefore not as cheap. I think they were not officially imported, but thats only hearsay, I dunno myself.
Corrolla have a rep for flooding at angles, not a problem if gassed, tho, and there are breather type solutions for them.
As you have probably guessed, I have considered and researched the same idea for frog in the past.
A whole driveable auto 4K corrolla can be had fer 200 to 500 bucks, and you would get exhausts and mounts and all sorts of useful bits...less expense.
conversion aint really that easy, but if you are building a tube buggy I don't see any issues, as you put stuff where you want it, from the start.
Position everything, and decide on wheel base, by sticking to standard zook shafts etc.
LWB's are great, but I think it be cheaper to lengthen a SWB chassis to desired length.
If you are having any chassis at all, could be a tube chassis in your mind.

christover

[grimbo]

5k and 5 speed g/box would be a great engine combo and guess what I just so happen to have them availble very soon

Sounds like a cool little buggy especially if you cann keep it very cheap. Will you be using any body panels or just tube?

What sort of $$ is your limit?

[sierrajim]

Still kicking around engine ideas and as original post looking at less than $3,000.

Whats the difference between corolla 4K and 5K?

[christover1]

Still kicking around engine ideas and as original post looking at less than $3,000.

Whats the difference between corolla 4K and 5K?

not sure of exact cc's but 4K is under 1400cc and 5K is closer to 1500cc
3K was the most popular zook conversion, but it comes well under 1300cc, its closer to 1200....deceptive marketting
not sure if there is any other physical differences between engines, but I doubt it.

christover

[christover1]

I do think there has to be better options than K series corrollas, though. They are old school, very much heavier cast blocks, no crossflow heads etc...just possibly worth it for ease of auto.
I think any north/south engine with its matching auto, that fits in the hole would be fine...more common the better for price and spares.....
christover

[grimbo]

my 5k has been nothing but reliable, had no carby issues other than a bit of mud etc which is to be expected, flooding issues were solved by adding two small breathers. Lots more torque than a Suzuki engine. Simple and effective and for a budget buggy I wouldn't dismiss them too easily as old school.

[sierrajim]

old school is generally cheap, easy and often reliable. Plenty of parts back up helps too.

[christover1]

old school is generally cheap, easy and often reliable. Plenty of parts back up helps too.

thats why I looked into it. I'm old and yet still function reliably

I worked out, with a LWB, that I could move the t-case back far enough to use a front t shaft on the rear..this gave a reasonable length jack shaft, and could still use a front tshaft on the front if had a centre bearing set up, like on da bruiser. this kept the 4K and auto pretty much stock....I never got much further into the idea.
In a swb a very short jack shaft is needed, I think?

christover

[-Mick-]

In a swb a very short jack shaft is needed, I think?

christover

The jackshaft was an ass in mine Installing the rockhoppers took 23 days... and they were already in a case

Took a day and a half of shimming up and down

Move the case back, save yourself the frustration

[sierrajim]

The jackshaft was an ass in mine Installing the rockhoppers took 23 days... and they were already in a case

Took a day and a half of shimming up and down

Move the case back, save yourself the frustration

I'm assuming this was due to a shorter than normal jackshaft?

[christover1]

Mock had an idea for a light weight buggy, which I thawt was brilliant.
(I think it was his idea)
Best to talk to him, though, as I not wanna divulge any secret info accidently.
But I would build similar for a comp buggy if I was going to.
christover

[christover1]

some people drive the t-case with a solid connection, or one that only has one cv or uni, due to tight space...unless this set-up is aligned well, vibrations are extreme. I assume this was Micks prob) A proper length jack shaft with a uni/cv at both ends allows for any different t-case movements to the gbox, and lets you get away with less accurate alignment...there is probably some big technical words to describe it .....christover.

[sierrajim]

Have spoken to him at length about it, however i don't want to steal his thunder.

When i've finished this one i may look at a single seater along the same designs as what he is.

I may get the same engine as what he's looking at before hand to see if the goal is achievable.

[DeWsE]

Oh this is Grimace, what is with you Mexicans always being so secretive. Like greg and his bling black rig….. nobody wants to say anything! Like he’s running 35â€

[christover1]

How many can you drive at once?

not sure about that, but he could park em all and some....I'm in love with his workshop.

[DeWsE]

How many can you drive at once?

not sure about that, but he could park em all and some....I'm in love with his workshop.

Now calm down chris, I'm not sure your heart can take that much excitment

[ljxtreem]

Have spoken to him at length about it, however i don't want to steal his thunder.

When i've finished this one i may look at a single seater along the same designs as what he is.

I may get the same engine as what he's looking at before hand to see if the goal is achievable.

Hmmm
he he he he

Secret squirel


Mock

[christover1]

I reckon its time for a static motor driven hydraulic drive system, one motor for each wheel, with a mid mounted pumping donk..

Or better still, go green, and build a battery driven buggy

why not shoot fer the stars

[ljxtreem]

your whack

But I love ya

How about, chain drive, strait axel's, with cain driven drop hubs

I too can be whack!!

Mock

[-Mick-]

The jackshaft was an ass in mine Installing the rockhoppers took 23 days... and they were already in a case

Took a day and a half of shimming up and down

Move the case back, save yourself the frustration

I'm assuming this was due to a shorter than normal jackshaft?

yep. avoid that if you can

[ljxtreem]

your whack

But I love ya

How about, chain drive, strait axel's, with cain driven drop hubs

I too can be whack!!

Mock

Sorry pete , that was yor whack idea

Mock

[droopypete]

your whack

But I love ya

How about, chain drive, strait axel's, with cain driven drop hubs

I too can be whack!!

Mock

Sorry pete , that was yor whack idea

Mock

what do you mean "WHACK", the future is chain drive, you wait and see,
and I do believe the other "secret squirell idea is mine also!

Now get to bed we have concrete to pour tomorrow.
Peter.
ps keep those screams down, I can here them from here