Zook buggy ideas - need feedback

[ljxtreem]

shhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
shhhhhhhh!!!!!!!



Mock

[sierrajim]

sorry Mock

Specs are

John Deere body and chassis, 15hp Briggs and Stratton, 6 speed manual, hydrastatic differential etc etc.

[cj]

Mmmmmmm, good approach and departure angles I also like like the concept behind Mocks future buggy, a different and elegant solution. Keen to see it happen. Certainly won't be more of the same.

[grimbo]

also like the ability for track maintenance whilst driving

Jim what are you going to use the buggy for. if you are going to be competing in it then make sure that you meet all the safety and build requirements for things like WE Rock. Be a shame to build it and then not really have anywhere to drive it.

[sierrajim]

Does anyone have a copy of the werock rules?

[christover1]

Does anyone have a copy of the werock rules?

http://werock.4wd.org.au/cms/

http://www.we-rock.cc/rulebook.html

[DeWsE]

Some food for thought.

[DeWsE]

[DeWsE]

No comments people? I though this would be what you were after, It's hella cool!

[sierrajim]

Nice looking rig, however i'm not running zook chassis or body panels. It will be entirely tube.

I do like the design of the "passenger" section of the cage. But would it be strong enough?

[DeWsE]

What do you mean?

I think if we look at rally cars you will notice their is no main hoop like on most fourby's. rather one peice will run front to back.

Sorry I didn't realise it was all tooooob..

For idea's

http://www.spidertrax.com/Events/events ... wl2004.htm

[sierrajim]

I've just read in the rules for werock. Looks like i have some work to do on the red car too.

6 point cage, all frame mounted, with seats attached to the cage not the body. Now that sucks.

The car must weigh a minimum of 2200 (assuming pounds) without the driver.

All of the super modified class rules seem ok.

[sierrajim]

Probably wrong but have been told that the A pillar should be one hoop, the b pillar another with joints between them.

I honestly have no idea, either way if the steel is good quality and the welding is up to scratch i guess that both would be OK?

[sierrajim]

i like this

[Guy]

i like this

I quite like that as well.. very

[DeWsE]

i like this

I quite like that as well.. very

Sean from abt4x4 put me on to that link. We are currently talking about building one for a WA guy.

[christover1]

surely there are tube buggy type kits available here, whereas you just add in your own mechanicals....may be a better way of being comp certified???
maybe you should be frequenting comps, get a feel for it all, then build or rebuild something to correct specs.
or buy somebodies rig who has upgraded, ie entry spec situation..like a lot of motor sports..

[sierrajim]

the project budget wouldn't allow for the purchase of an existing frame. I've already explored that option.

Minimum chassis outlay would be around $1,500 or so.

[DeWsE]

the project budget wouldn't allow for the purchase of an existing frame. I've already explored that option.

Minimum chassis outlay would be around $1,500 or so.

Yeah sierrajim your right the cheapest I have found without tabs is 1500.

I like your idea and think the first thing to do would be design a simplistic frame without bracing. Then fit motor roughly and go from their.

[christover1]

the project budget wouldn't allow for the purchase of an existing frame. I've already explored that option.

Minimum chassis outlay would be around $1,500 or so.

thats much cheaper than I thought.
but they are probably too heavy for a light weight build anyway.

[DeWsE]

some idea's for light

[Gwagensteve]

I reckon its time for a static motor driven hydraulic drive system, one motor for each wheel, with a mid mounted pumping donk..

Or better still, go green, and build a battery driven buggy

why not shoot fer the stars

I believe most rock crawling rules specifiy that mechanical drive must be used (is this just heresay???)- i.e. not hydraulic. although battery is still a mechanical as it would generally still have a gearbox andd driveshafts etc

[Gwagensteve]

Lay all of your propsed parts out on the floor and with a stick of chalk start sketching the floorpan out. Allow for full lock with your desired tyre size and "proper" offset.

Once you have this laid out it will give you a guide to wheelbase and possibilities for engine placement.

If you run a manual, you have to be able to change gear - this will limit possible engine mounting locations.

Here's a couple of ideas: keep it narrow. REALLY narrow. Let everyone else run full width axles and 12" rims and just drive inside the obstacles.

EFI's have rev limiters, but I believe there are reasonably cheap universal rev limiters available. I think this is wise to prevent spur of the moment massive rev lean outs and subsquent legs out of bed.

I wouldn't fit a cast iron motor. I think any cast iron motor ('cpet a F6A) with zook axles etc will be a bit of a dumb way of building a car - more weight in the motor than the diffs.

Just some fodder.

Steve.

[Gwagensteve]

PS - that spidertrax prototype looks to me to be entirely where it's at. ( not the lower photo, only the upper one.

[christover1]

PS - that spidertrax prototype looks to me to be entirely where it's at. ( not the lower photo, only the upper one.

couldn't agree more, nice balanced low cog look about it.

[sierrajim]

now that's cool.

Only problem that i can see is the minimum weight of 1000kg.

What options do i have on engines. Want to run auto and either EFI or GAS.

$3,000 budget
-$700 diffs
-$800 tube
$230 rod ends
$120 bushes
=$1,150
minus engine
minus shocks/coils
minus steer
etc etc

i don't think i'll be able to go EFI, however the project is for a relatively capable buggy on a budget. After it's been built, it can progress from there.

[cj]

[quote="sierrajim"]

Only problem that i can see is the minimum weight of 1000kg.


quote]

Not a problem as you can add the extra weight where you want it for balance and low COG. Some put it in the tyres.

[Jaffa]

Sierra Jim, Ive got a 4K Carolla motor sitting in the factory you can have for nothing if you like, bought about 3 years ago to replace a dead motor in carolla, but never went in, probly need a rebuild though. Was fine when I bought it but was under a tarp for a while, the tarp split and I suspect water got into the motor through the carby.

If you want it let me know, and I'll pull it out of the corner for you.

Brendan

[sierrajim]

you have PM

[sierrajim]

OK, i've made some progress.

I have a gearbox sorted, Vitara 4 speed that will match up with a 1.6EFI that i need to find.

One engine/gearbox that i did look at was the pintara 2.0ltr and Auto. EFI complete engine, box, loom and computer for about $600, all up about 700mm from fan to rear output.

I wasn't sure on the overall weight, gearing etc so i just thought i'll go the Vit.

Also going to run dual cases for the moment. As Gwagen steve said to me, everyone has to try it once before they learn the hard way. My rig will have enough wheelbase to do it and won't be hard to change to series 3's if i want to later on.

Does anyone have a motor , computer and loom?

What steel should i be trying to find for my suspension links?