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DeWsE wrote:If I do need a panhard rod, would I be correct in saying that rod needs to be the same length and parallel to the steering to stop binding?
not bind but bump steer
Okay so how important would in be offroad at slow speeds? Would I loose my thumbs without it?
[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
Off road at slow speed triangulated 4 link wouldn't bump steer so to speak, but as it flexes the wheels will turn (steer)... so to stay going straight ahead you have to turn the steering wheel one way or another to compensate as you are flexing... then back as you flex in the other direction.
Trust me, I used to run a 4 link front.
If a 5 link is designed well you will get heaps of flex before it binds - enough for a 14 or 16" travel shock/coilover/airshock.
Other thing to consider is roll centre and roll axis. Alot more buggies are going to 4 link (2 lower control arms, 1 upper and a panhard) with a high and flat axel mount on the panhard - higher on the rear than on the front so that the roll axis slopes slightly forward.
Oh, baiscally when using a panhard and 3 or 4 link the roll centre is half way down the length of the panhard, and the closer the roll axs is to the COG the less body roll you get in off camber.
One more for now - triangulating your lowers slightly will reduce (eliminate) rear steer (or front steer for a front application) during articulation. The angle and connection points of the lowers and uppers also effect the amount of squat or anti-squat under acceleration...
Rambling now, sorry, I'm outa here.
S.
www.TeamFireBug.com
Thanks to:
abt4x4.com - Just Customs
Staun beadlocks - Solid Axle
Cummins - Maxxis
FireTruck wrote:Off road at slow speed triangulated 4 link wouldn't bump steer so to speak, but as it flexes the wheels will turn (steer)... so to stay going straight ahead you have to turn the steering wheel one way or another to compensate as you are flexing... then back as you flex in the other direction.
Trust me, I used to run a 4 link front.
If a 5 link is designed well you will get heaps of flex before it binds - enough for a 14 or 16" travel shock/coilover/airshock.
Other thing to consider is roll centre and roll axis. Alot more buggies are going to 4 link (2 lower control arms, 1 upper and a panhard) with a high and flat axel mount on the panhard - higher on the rear than on the front so that the roll axis slopes slightly forward.
Oh, baiscally when using a panhard and 3 or 4 link the roll centre is half way down the length of the panhard, and the closer the roll axs is to the COG the less body roll you get in off camber.
One more for now - triangulating your lowers slightly will reduce (eliminate) rear steer (or front steer for a front application) during articulation. The angle and connection points of the lowers and uppers also effect the amount of squat or anti-squat under acceleration...
Rambling now, sorry, I'm outa here.
S.
correct me if i am wrong but i thought the front and rear each had there own roll axis and u determined the roll axis buy drawing a line throught the instant center and half way throught the panhard? (3 link with panhard)
Team UNDERDOG #233
WERock Australia thanks to
[url]http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com[/url]
[url]http://www.rockbuggysupply.com[/url]
got me there... more research required for me... I thought that the roll axis was for the entire vehicle, and was the axis you get when joining the roll centre of each axel.. ?
www.TeamFireBug.com
Thanks to:
abt4x4.com - Just Customs
Staun beadlocks - Solid Axle
Cummins - Maxxis
