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The thimble filter is easiest removed with a bent over cable tie. Bend the last inch of the cable tie back over on itself (so it looks like a hook) and try to remove the filter that way.
The electrical connections on the fuel pump is usually on the models (1992 or so) with all the EGR shite on the inlet manifold....which can be blanked off.
Thats the funny thing, there is no other EGR stuff on the vehicle, and my dads 91 LWB has none either, and it has the normal fuel system det up. Strange!!!!
Geeze!!!!
I rang G Guy Motors today, they refered me on to the Auto Sparky they deal with who they reckon supplies there pumps.
I wasn't sure the woman on the other end of the phone had much of an idea as to what i wanted, but she supplied me a quote of $440 for the pump.
It had better be gold plated with a tiatanium surge tank!!!!
Im going to do some more invetigating else i will be begging one of you guys to give me some contact details of a supplier over there in OZ!!!!!
Was auto sparky L Alexandra & Co?? Phil there is usually good to deal with??
Ok, the inline pump we tried in the race truck was a Holly "Blue" fuel pump. Supposed have flow rate of 100-110 gph. Important that it is a low pressure, but high flow rate pump......and NOT a facet pump (pulse). Needs to be continuous (rotary) pump. Bout $300-400.
Few things to check before you spend any money though. CHeck filter in sender assembly in the fuel tank (some have these, some don't). Thimble filter in fuel pump. Blow out main filter head assembly, or just by-pass it and take it for a strop up the road. Check timing, if it is retarded, it has no go around 3000rpm. Should be 0.74 or 0.75 TDC, cant remember which??
GQ TROL wrote:Was auto sparky L Alexandra & Co?? Phil there is usually good to deal with??
Ok, the inline pump we tried in the race truck was a Holly "Blue" fuel pump. Supposed have flow rate of 100-110 gph. Important that it is a low pressure, but high flow rate pump......and NOT a facet pump (pulse). Needs to be continuous (rotary) pump. Bout $300-400.
Few things to check before you spend any money though. CHeck filter in sender assembly in the fuel tank (some have these, some don't). Thimble filter in fuel pump. Blow out main filter head assembly, or just by-pass it and take it for a strop up the road. Check timing, if it is retarded, it has no go around 3000rpm. Should be 0.74 or 0.75 TDC, cant remember which??
Cheers Mitch
Mitch
Did you only try the inline pump and took it of, (didn`t work properly?). Do you know the reason why it has to be a rotary pump and not a pulse type?
I`ve been in contact with some tuning shops and they only sell the pulse type.
Did you only try the inline pump and took it of, (didn`t work properly?). Do you know the reason why it has to be a rotary pump and not a pulse type?
I`ve been in contact with some tuning shops and they only sell the pulse type.
G'day Per,
Yes we tried the inline pump, and then took it off as it didn't do anything to improve performance of the race truck. That is, the new 12mm plunger can deliver enough fuel to match the air-flow without any problems. However, my truck does hesitate at approx 3000rpm with the bigger fuel pump, presumably because of the hi-flowed turbo is able deliver even more air (but only when airfilter is clean!).....so the air and fuel delivery is not matched correctly. I guess an inline elec pump will solve this problem.
Not exactly sure why is HAS to be a continuous pump, but rumour suggests a pulse type pump upsets the fuel injection pump.
Hmm, looks like my lucky day, this will do the trick, its twelve volt, but i just happen to have a dissused 3amp reducer mounted in my engine bay.
Sweet.
Hey.
Couple of Q's
Where do you put the pump, before or after the fuel filter?
What did you wire the pump to, to switch it on and off? The ignition key, the fuel cut of solenid? or somthing else in the engine bay??
How did you set the pressure regulator up?? I may run a fuel pressure gauge one day, but for the mean time how should i go about setting it up??
Its adjustable from 0 - 14 PSI.
I think that should cover the basic stuff i need to know. I can make it up from there.
Cheers,
Pete.
Pete,
The elec pump went before the filter and was wired to the ignition switch.
I'm pretty sure the one we used wasn't variable pressure....so just left it as is. I would start off with yours set at low pressure and wind it up till you get the desired effect.
In the process of setting up a surge tank in the new truck, so will drag the old elec pump out again for that use. May have some more feedback for ya shortly.
if it only just started doing it then there is a problem in the fuel system that will still exist with extra pump i would be finding that problem cos i am sure it wasnt there when it came out of the factory
just my thoughts as i like to fix my problems not use bandaids
Did you only try the inline pump and took it of, (didn`t work properly?). Do you know the reason why it has to be a rotary pump and not a pulse type?
I`ve been in contact with some tuning shops and they only sell the pulse type.
G'day Per,
Yes we tried the inline pump, and then took it off as it didn't do anything to improve performance of the race truck. That is, the new 12mm plunger can deliver enough fuel to match the air-flow without any problems. However, my truck does hesitate at approx 3000rpm with the bigger fuel pump, presumably because of the hi-flowed turbo is able deliver even more air (but only when airfilter is clean!).....so the air and fuel delivery is not matched correctly. I guess an inline elec pump will solve this problem.
Not exactly sure why is HAS to be a continuous pump, but rumour suggests a pulse type pump upsets the fuel injection pump.
Hope that helps.
Cheers
Mitch
install a pulsation dampner
If the above post did not offend you in any way please PM me so I can try harder!!
AdrianGQ wrote:if it only just started doing it then there is a problem in the fuel system that will still exist with extra pump i would be finding that problem cos i am sure it wasnt there when it came out of the factory
just my thoughts as i like to fix my problems not use bandaids
Short of rebuilding the injector pump just for the hell of it (which has been tested and is fine), or doing the toyota injector pump conversion,this is the solution.
By the sounds of it, its common to the TD42 if it has been tweaked to any extent.
Mine started doing it after i had new injectors installed, the pump timing done/advanced and all the silencers on the exhaust system swapped to free flow straight through ones.
