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Brake pads?

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

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Brake pads?

Post by nicbeer »

What pads for the front of the sierra do people reckon are the best?

don't need anything too fancy. I was thinking of getting the PBR ones

cheers
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Post by alien »

i have bendix on my vit rotors n calipers... awesome pads!

http://www.bendix.com.au/_products_4wd.asp
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Post by 87suzi »

brake pads are brake pads. Sheesh!
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Post by 87suzi »

Sorry, I probably should have been more helpful. Okay, best brake setup IMO is two get about two pieces of rubber, bout 3/4 inch thick, and cut them to shape, slot one into each face of calliper, and slide over the disc. Don't let them heat up to much though as they tend to melt.
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Post by nicbeer »

87suzi wrote:brake pads are brake pads. Sheesh!


I don't think they are.

Some tend to wear quicker due to the mud/grit and some give more bite than others.

cheers
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Post by mtzook »

In the 5 sierra's i've had, i've never replaced the pads because they wore out. They always had a chunk of meat left on them. They last forever on those 4x's. Bendix are really good quality though. I used to live not far from where they manufacture them in Tennessee.
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Post by jabtronic »

87suzi wrote:Sorry, I probably should have been more helpful. Okay, best brake setup IMO is two get about two pieces of rubber, bout 3/4 inch thick, and cut them to shape, slot one into each face of calliper, and slide over the disc. Don't let them heat up to much though as they tend to melt.


Will doormat do? :finger:
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Post by 87suzi »

Brake pads are brake pads. PBR's good, Bendix is also good, and Precisionstop is also good. So there you go. Costs me 24 dollars to do a front brake pad change and drive forever without changing them. By the way whats that really bad scraping sound when you apply your brakes?
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Post by Pat Murray »

Bendix standard pads are good. Change them out before they get too thin as it is possible for one to pop out if discs are at their limit (thickness) and bearings are loose. This is the voice of experience! There is very little in the way of HP pads available for Sierras.
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Post by Guy »

Pat Murray wrote:Bendix standard pads are good. Change them out before they get too thin as it is possible for one to pop out if discs are at their limit (thickness) and bearings are loose. This is the voice of experience! There is very little in the way of HP pads available for Sierras.


Thats because there is very liitle in the way of HP zuks .. well at least in braking.
I found that the Bendix pads were fine, so were the PBR's, both did OK pulling down tallish (33 and 35 bias ply swampers and claws) heavy rubber.
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Post by 87suzi »

You know, something I'll never understand is people going on about braking power, and people wanting to increase their braking power. Braking power means nothing, what's important is your 'stopping time'. I hear about people wanting to upgrade their brakes when their brakes are well capable of locking up the wheels. I've driven some cars which I would say have some shit brakes, but not shit brakes because they don't have enough braking power. Brakes have enough 'power' if the callipers can exert as much force on the disc to lock the wheel. I mean shit brakes because theres no control in the brakes, meaning theres about half a centimetre of pedal travel between nothing and full lock. As far as stopping power goes it's a matter of brake bias. Front and rear wheels should be stopping as much as the traction underneath allows. Thats why I reckon downgearing whilst braking is the best way, though I never do it cause I'm too lazy and I don't want to burn my clutch. But in that emergency situation I'd instictively do it.
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Post by Jwreck »

Hey Nicbeer..

I just put some bendix pads into the front of my vit. They make a 4wd compound which is said to be better in the wet. So far no complaints. Don't know what the pros have to say on the materials used and/or their performance. For my dollars, I thought it couldn't hurt to go for something made for off road use. Cost me about $60 for the four pads at Autobahn.

Happy stoppin'..

J.
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Post by Pat Murray »

I have just checked this thread and can find no mention of people "going on about braking power". I guess Zook owners just want a pad material that will pull them up reliably and consistently, preferably with a much larger unsprung weight component. This is why I recommended Bendix pads. We tow a 450 kg. camper trailer over Tassie's mountainous roads/tracks and the friction material in Bendix pads seems more resistant to fade and less affected by contamination by mud etc.
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Post by 87suzi »

[quote="Pat Murray"]I have just checked this thread and can find no mention of people "going on about braking power".quote] Don't give that BS. Congratulations for spending countless minutes doing a search to try and sound right. If you even did a search. Theres threads all over the place about people wanting to do disc conversions to drums, putting vitara callipers on sierras, and people suggesting to get aftermarket rotors on stock landcruisers because of poor braking performance. I'm not denying these things are all good to have. Discs are better than drums, bigger callipers are better than small ones, and yes fancy sports and aftermarket vented rotors are better than the standard ones. But don't say no ones talking about braking power, makes you look silly. I have mate with an fj40 that wants to do a disc brake conversion. I tell him, just get used to the brakes you have. Yes he's an idiot, but thats not the point.
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Post by Guy »

87suzi wrote:
Pat Murray wrote:I have just checked this thread and can find no mention of people "going on about braking power".quote] Don't give that BS. Congratulations for spending countless minutes doing a search to try and sound right. If you even did a search. Theres threads all over the place about people wanting to do disc conversions to drums, putting vitara callipers on sierras, and people suggesting to get aftermarket rotors on stock landcruisers because of poor braking performance. I'm not denying these things are all good to have. Discs are better than drums, bigger callipers are better than small ones, and yes fancy sports and aftermarket vented rotors are better than the standard ones. But don't say no ones talking about braking power, makes you look silly. I have mate with an fj40 that wants to do a disc brake conversion. I tell him, just get used to the brakes you have. Yes he's an idiot, but thats not the point.


I disagree .. Pat is refering to this thread .. you are talking about threads in the yota section or tech.. not at all related to this discussion. So unless you have somethiing useful to add other than your opinion about fj40's not needing discs and name calling .. STFU
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Post by nicbeer »

Pat Murray wrote:I have just checked this thread and can find no mention of people "going on about braking power". I guess Zook owners just want a pad material that will pull them up reliably and consistently, preferably with a much larger unsprung weight component. This is why I recommended Bendix pads. We tow a 450 kg. camper trailer over Tassie's mountainous roads/tracks and the friction material in Bendix pads seems more resistant to fade and less affected by contamination by mud etc.


Thanks Pat. what I want to hear.

cheers
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Post by 87suzi »

I didn't call anyone names. I'm sorry if sounded too aggressive, but I don't like people who go out of their way to make other people look bad or stupid. Luv Mud I can see maybe you wanna take Pats side, but I didn't claim for there to be anything about braking power on this thread. I made a statement in general about some people looking to upgrade their brakes, which many people do and there are many threads about (There was actually one on the top of the thread list when I came on). Just that he did a search to try prove me wrong, which he didn't. Towing a trailer is definitely something you'd want good brake pads for as your actually increasing the weight of the vehicle.
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Post by crispy »

Geez ease up, he was refering to this thread about checking it, and I dont think he was trying to make anyone look stupid just stating a fact.

This is begining to be the problem with this site things coming up that arent related to the inital thread question, if he wanted to know about braking power he would of made a breaking power thread, whereas all was wanted to know was about brake pads.

I would stick with the bigger know brand brake pads as prementioned in this thread
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Post by CHOPS1 »

crispy wrote:Geez ease up, he was refering to this thread about checking it, and I dont think he was trying to make anyone look stupid just stating a fact.

This is begining to be the problem with this site things coming up that arent related to the inital thread question, if he wanted to know about braking power he would of made a breaking power thread, whereas all was wanted to know was about brake pads.

I would stick with the bigger know brand brake pads as prementioned in this thread


Hi crispy,

Its chop from south oz. Is that your beast at robe?
that looks like fun, i'm going down there in a weeks time.

Oh, and all he wanted to know was what was a good brake pad!


Chop
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Post by 87suzi »

I'm not gonna bother dragging it on any further, I know what was said. Anyway my point was related to brakes, and I was just saying that in the end, you've got four contact areas with the road that are the tyres. People should upgrade their brakes both for safety and better control etc. In the end though if your brakes are strong enough to lock your wheels, then there's no necessity to go stronger brakes, at least for me there isn't. The pads I got on my car are Precision Stop. Bendix and PBR have a very good reputation and if I had to guess PBR would be the best and most expensive. Super cheap sell two other brands of brake pads, one being very cheap. I used to have Bendix at one time and all I could tell ya is that when the foot went down the car slowed down, just like the ones I got now. One big difference the different brake pads will probably have is how long they last.
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Post by OldGold »

What are you saying? That as long as your brakes can lock up the tyres than you have optimal braking performance? Because that is total BS.
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Post by 87suzi »

OldGold wrote:What are you saying? That as long as your brakes can lock up the tyres than you have optimal braking performance? Because that is total BS.


Well, I know it doesn't sound very intelligent, but that sort of is what I'm saying. Again don't think that I don't believe in upgrading brakes of fitting good quality brake pads. Allow me to explain. Imagine rear brakes on cars never existed okay? Imagine cars only had front brakes. Now at the point when your front wheels lock up, there is no use in applying more force to the calliper, drum pistons etc. Correct? Thats fact number 1. Fact number 2 is that the optimum braking force exerted on the wheel or drum is to that point JUST before the wheels lock. Okay? IF you can get to that point, which if you know your car and the way it behaves you can, then there is physically no way that you can stop your car any faster.

Better brake pads, larger brakes, and brake conversions to different systems may make short work of stopping the car. Meaning that you don't have to push down on the pedal as much to get the same stopping power. This ultimately means more CONTROL in braking force and it is easier to find that optimum braking point. So with this hypothetical situation of only front wheels having brakes my point is clear, that the best braking point is that point just before lock.

But we know that cars have brakes on all four wheels. We know that the brakes are biased towards the front. I've just made the point that there is physically no faster way to stop a car than applying the brakes to point just before lock. Another thing we could theoretically do to stop our car faster is by having all four wheels at that point just before lock. As the braking power to the back wheels and the weight on the back wheels is significantly less than the front, which is also variable depending on the rate of deceleration, it is difficult, probably impossible (correct me if I'm wrong) to have all four wheels at the point just before lock.

So there are a few rules of physics that cannot be ignored. And it's just important to understand these before jumping to conclusions and thinking that braking harder or more powerful brakes will make you car stop faster. Noone here take that personally because I wasn't referring to any one here just people in general. If anything I said is wrong then correct me as I love learning new stuff.
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Post by Guy »

87suzi wrote:
OldGold wrote:What are you saying? That as long as your brakes can lock up the tyres than you have optimal braking performance? Because that is total BS.


Well, I know it doesn't sound very intelligent, but that sort of is what I'm saying. Again don't think that I don't believe in upgrading brakes of fitting good quality brake pads. Allow me to explain. Imagine rear brakes on cars never existed okay? Imagine cars only had front brakes. Now at the point when your front wheels lock up, there is no use in applying more force to the calliper, drum pistons etc. Correct? Thats fact number 1. Fact number 2 is that the optimum braking force exerted on the wheel or drum is to that point JUST before the wheels lock. Okay? IF you can get to that point, which if you know your car and the way it behaves you can, then there is physically no way that you can stop your car any faster.

Better brake pads, larger brakes, and brake conversions to different systems may make short work of stopping the car. Meaning that you don't have to push down on the pedal as much to get the same stopping power. This ultimately means more CONTROL in braking force and it is easier to find that optimum braking point. So with this hypothetical situation of only front wheels having brakes my point is clear, that the best braking point is that point just before lock.

But we know that cars have brakes on all four wheels. We know that the brakes are biased towards the front. I've just made the point that there is physically no faster way to stop a car than applying the brakes to point just before lock. Another thing we could theoretically do to stop our car faster is by having all four wheels at that point just before lock. As the braking power to the back wheels and the weight on the back wheels is significantly less than the front, which is also variable depending on the rate of deceleration, it is difficult, probably impossible (correct me if I'm wrong) to have all four wheels at the point just before lock.

So there are a few rules of physics that cannot be ignored. And it's just important to understand these before jumping to conclusions and thinking that braking harder or more powerful brakes will make you car stop faster. Noone here take that personally because I wasn't referring to any one here just people in general. If anything I said is wrong then correct me as I love learning new stuff.


I hear what your saying and thanks for not taking my post personally.

Better brake pads, larger rotors etc will allow you to threshold brake longer, as the better compounds in the pads, like better tyres have more consistant adhesion under various conditions, especially on a cold to very hot rotor.
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