What first, Hi-steer/Powersteer or Airlocker

Post by **spazbot** » Fri May 02, 2003 11:03 am

Or ive got a few $$ to spend some of it is going towards getting my front end finished, and the rest will be spent either on a hi steer conversion or an air locker what dom you recon i should get first.
the plan is to welb the rear and put the locker in the front, but atm im running 32"s and stock steering with no power steer.i plan on going to 35"s atleast soon

should i get the hi-steer done or get the locker and wait for a while till i get the new rubber

Post by **bj on roids** » Fri May 02, 2003 3:34 pm

here is what id do

locker

crossover, with power steer IFS box, flipped double arm

hell id probly do all at once. but i seem to be able to sell my ass for the funds a lot better

Post by **bj on roids** » Fri May 02, 2003 3:46 pm

if you are ARB'ed in the rear, swap it to the fron weld the back, fab your own crossover, using the IFS box, and you are under the cost of an ARB still, now all you gotta do is a flipped double arm, save for some decent high steering, in my opinion, none on the market in australia are worth purchasing at the moment for a street driven rig.

so now you got twin lockers, crossover, and high/low steer

now weld some big bar along it to strengthen it.

now buy some tyres my old 35" BFGs are in your market :twisted:

Post by **MissDrew** » Fri May 02, 2003 7:26 pm

bj on roids wrote:in my opinion, none on the market in australia are worth purchasing at the moment for a street driven rig.

in my best pauline hanson voice "Please explain"

Post by **MissDrew** » Fri May 02, 2003 7:28 pm

Spaz I`d go with the locker. Why? Cause if its a bitch to turn then just turn the front lock off. Also the more air in the tyres the easier it will be to turn, so just find a pressure that suits your strength, for me it`d be about 100psi :roll:

and forget about front end traction.

Post by **spazbot** » Fri May 02, 2003 7:29 pm

atm with an unlocked front and 32"s at 12psi i can happly turn it, just thinking ahead in the future

Post by **MissDrew** » Fri May 02, 2003 7:34 pm

If you can happily turn it at 12 with 32`s then I`d go the locker. As I`d bet you could do 35`s at about 15 or so.

I say the locker because it`ll give you the biggest performance increase for you $$$$ even better if you weld the rear like you say.

Post by **spazbot** » Fri May 02, 2003 7:53 pm

yeah thats what im thinking hi steer can come latter

Post by **MissDrew** » Fri May 02, 2003 7:57 pm

Plus with the high steer you can buy the ps box, then the high steer arms, then the draglink etc, then have it fitted or fit it yourself when time permits.

Post by **spazbot** » Fri May 02, 2003 8:00 pm

exaclty
ive been collecting bits slowly already

Post by **hypo** » Fri May 02, 2003 9:55 pm

lock it then do the steering then the tyres thats the way ill do it next time round

Post by **Pal** » Fri May 02, 2003 11:09 pm

Air locker first.

Then another air locker

Post by **bj on roids** » Sat May 03, 2003 7:16 am

Guts wrote:
bj on roids wrote:in my opinion, none on the market in australia are worth purchasing at the moment for a street driven rig.

in my best pauline hanson voice "Please explain"

how much street driving have you done on your high steering? ive had to drive mine for over a year. You said you have a work vehicle.

im merely offering my opinion, if some idiot wants to get awesome steering and have no lockers why would i care, me and my muscly arms will drive right by him :finger:

Post by **MissDrew** » Sat May 03, 2003 8:59 am

bj on roids wrote:
Guts wrote:
bj on roids wrote:in my opinion, none on the market in australia are worth purchasing at the moment for a street driven rig.

in my best pauline hanson voice "Please explain"

how much street driving have you done on your high steering? ive had to drive mine for over a year. You said you have a work vehicle.

About 5 months wearth before I got my work vehicle. Now you still haven`t explained why you think it isn`t any good.

Post by **bj on roids** » Sat May 03, 2003 10:34 am

cool, you liked it, my steering arm has the bearing seats not machined properly

the trunion bearings dont fit onto it, i complained but have received no word.

I dont know what is wrong with the setup, but it does not fit onto my toyota, so I wasted my money :lol:

Post by **Wendle** » Sat May 03, 2003 10:39 am

bj on roids wrote:cool, you liked it, my steering arm has the bearing seats not machined properly

the trunion bearings dont fit onto it, i complained but have received no word.

I dont know what is wrong with the setup, but it does not fit onto my toyota, so I wasted my money

of the two sets I have seen in the flesh, both had dramas, one set as described above, and the other set has the taper bores machined way wrong

Post by **MissDrew** » Sat May 03, 2003 3:45 pm

Mine are fine and all are done from a cast so work that one out

Post by **NICK** » Sat May 03, 2003 4:44 pm

Guts wrote:Mine are fine and all are done from a cast so work that one out

they still need machining, in referance to something that is cast.

NICK

Post by **83 lux** » Sun May 04, 2003 6:18 pm

take it from the stocker with a locker
LOCKER you will not be disaponited

Post by **hypo** » Sun May 04, 2003 9:42 pm

83 lux wrote:take it from the stocker with a locker
LOCKER you will not be disaponited

just drive it !!!!!!!!! hey scotty :finger:

Post by **bj on roids** » Mon May 05, 2003 9:49 am

Guts wrote:Mine are fine and all are done from a cast so work that one out

i was told the cast/mould was lost when a company that went bankrupt. Then new ones had to be made, hence the 8 month wait on my second set. which have different measurements but have not looked yet if they fit.

maybe they put the better stuff on thier sponsored vehicle? fawk if i know.

maybe they aren't even meant to fit on a toyota.

Tue May 06, 2003 7:56 pm

get an air locker dont need to steer wit ha toyota they will just keep going fowards make thear own track lol jk lockers are good but if u have trubs steering now maby steering is a good idear first how eva if u cant steer u can always flick the locker off

Post by **MissDrew** » Wed May 07, 2003 8:29 pm

Mine are out of the same batch as your 1st set BJ.

Post by **Zol** » Thu May 08, 2003 3:03 am

Guts wrote:Mine are out of the same batch as your 1st set BJ.

Don't know which batch yours came from Guts but from what I've heard, there are 3 different tapers that have come out for Toyotas. I had problems with the tierod end falling way too deep into the arm which reduced the angle on the tirod ends. I ground down the top of the arm at an angle to allow the tierod end to move more. It sorta fixed the problem but it doesn't seem to be designed for too much flex. I've chewed out 4 tierod ends already. The passenger side hole needs to be welded over & re-drilled on a slight angle also make the taper narrower. It's designed STRICTLY for a standard setup. As soon as you chuck dropped hangers on or exceed a 4inch spring lift you'l get probs like me.

Has anyone else had this problem?

Post by **suprasurf** » Thu May 08, 2003 6:53 am

Zol wrote:Has anyone else had this problem?

You guys have got me worried :( :(

Does this mean my expensive $800 hi steer arms could be crap :?:

I haven't got around to making the draglink / tierod and fitting it all yet...

Post by **Wendle** » Thu May 08, 2003 7:28 am

Zol wrote:Has anyone else had this problem?

Hypolux's set has exactly the same issue. The boots are compressed to nothing, and the joint has no room to move. He was going to try a nissan rod end, and see if the slightly bigger taper would still seat nicely.

Post by **Zol** » Thu May 08, 2003 11:29 am

Wendle wrote:
Zol wrote:Has anyone else had this problem?

Hypolux's set has exactly the same issue. The boots are compressed to nothing, and the joint has no room to move. He was going to try a nissan rod end, and see if the slightly bigger taper would still seat nicely.

Nissan rod end??? I didn't think the thread would be the same. I've managed to fix that rubber boot prob. There's enough chunk on the steering arms to grind the top off at the right angle.

I had big dramas when I went out with Jeremy. Got stuck in a procarious situation ontop of a ledge where only had 1/2 a meter of space to do a 50 point turn while under flex. My steering totally seized up. Turns out that the tied rod end had been chewed up from it been too deep in the tapeper & fully seized it.

Chaos have finished their steering setup. It's not a high steer but it is a crosslink. And much more reasonable in price in my opinion. They actually don't drill the taper until they find out the exat rod end you are using.

Post by **Wendle** » Thu May 08, 2003 11:34 am

Zol wrote:

Nissan rod end??? I didn't think the thread would be the same.

Probably isn't. You would need a custom draglink so you could have a toyo end at the pitman arm, and a nissan one at the knuckle. It may be the same thread though??
Thats a pretty big $$ item to have to grind away at to make it work :shock:

Post by **bj on roids** » Thu May 08, 2003 12:38 pm

Guts wrote:Mine are out of the same batch as your 1st set BJ.

okay, no wonder you king pin bearing broke that time then!! its posted up too, remember you said, broke a king pin bearing up bush? that happens to mine everytime it pops a CV, not to mention you gotta run all 80 series ball joints to get it to fit!

BUT I hav let snake know I have a problem, and he just said okay.

Post by **bj on roids** » Thu May 08, 2003 12:40 pm

suprasurf wrote:
Zol wrote:Has anyone else had this problem?

You guys have got me worried :( :(

Does this mean my expensive $800 hi steer arms could be crap

I haven't got around to making the draglink / tierod and fitting it all yet...

should have bought mine in the for sale section a few weeks ago!!

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