I've have gone through the forum and read both manuals on this topic and the procedure seems pretty straight forward. What I would like to know is if anyone has done the job themselves and is there anything to watch out for.
Any hints or any no-no's.
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Replacing Noisey Hydraulic Tappets
Moderator: -Scott-
Replacing Noisey Hydraulic Tappets
When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading
It will take about 5hrs to complete not to hard but there are a couple of bolts between the fire wall and engine a real pain to get to use a good sealent on the tappet covers replace all the gaskets that you can and only buy genuine tappets I used REPCO and had two sets fail and it is sh1t fight to get them do a warrenty claim still waiting on last claim to be paid they also don't pay for the gaskest that you need to replace as well, they were about $25.00 each 3rd set genuine were $32.00 each after some discussions with the dealer
have fun
Marty
have fun
Marty
Well - Replacing the tappets is not a hard job to do.
Got two free tappets from the guys that rebuilt the motor and attacked the car on Saturday
Yes - the two bolts that attach to the plennum stay at the rear of the motor are a bitch to get to but ya gotta expect at least one or two bolts to give you trouble.
Hardest part is diagnosing the noisey culprit (something I did not do well) as the @#$%&* is still clack'n away. Used a piece of tube, a piece of pipe and even a stethescope to try to work out which one it was (very hard to tell anything). Replaced one that was seeping oil out through the bleed hole and one that was showing a bit of movement as they appeared to be the obvious choices. (all the other appeared to have no slop)
Put it all back together and
dognabbit #$@&*%$ $^%$@ so it looks like I will be redoing it next weekend. Now that I know what to do I reckon I can get it done in about two and a half hours.
Better luck next time
Got two free tappets from the guys that rebuilt the motor and attacked the car on Saturday
Yes - the two bolts that attach to the plennum stay at the rear of the motor are a bitch to get to but ya gotta expect at least one or two bolts to give you trouble.
Hardest part is diagnosing the noisey culprit (something I did not do well) as the @#$%&* is still clack'n away. Used a piece of tube, a piece of pipe and even a stethescope to try to work out which one it was (very hard to tell anything). Replaced one that was seeping oil out through the bleed hole and one that was showing a bit of movement as they appeared to be the obvious choices. (all the other appeared to have no slop)
Put it all back together and
dognabbit #$@&*%$ $^%$@ so it looks like I will be redoing it next weekend. Now that I know what to do I reckon I can get it done in about two and a half hours.
Better luck next time
When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading
Bleed them in diesel fuel before putting in.
Did this.
Followed through the procedure in the book to the letter.
Noise has not changed position so I will just have to repeat the process and change a different one or two until I get it right.
Did this.
Followed through the procedure in the book to the letter.
Noise has not changed position so I will just have to repeat the process and change a different one or two until I get it right.
When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading
Redid the procedure after work last night. Removed all tappets carefully and tested them for movement and trapped air - everyone of them appears to be fine.
There is however a lot of damage/wear on the faces of the valve stems. For a motor that has not yet done 13,000kms and is under a year old I will be making a phone call and a visit to the guys who did the work. It still falls under warranty.
The exhaust valve closest to the front of the motor is indented badly and "seems" to be where most of the noise is coming from. I can understand wear and tear on an old motor but not this one.
There is however a lot of damage/wear on the faces of the valve stems. For a motor that has not yet done 13,000kms and is under a year old I will be making a phone call and a visit to the guys who did the work. It still falls under warranty.
The exhaust valve closest to the front of the motor is indented badly and "seems" to be where most of the noise is coming from. I can understand wear and tear on an old motor but not this one.
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When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading
Under a year old, still under warranty and you have pulled the lifters out, they might not like that.
Is that valve bent? Does it sit lower or have lower comp on that pot? OR is the rocker excessively worn on that valve, is the pushrod the same size as all others? If there is excessive gap you will be able to see/feel/hear this.
Run it with the rocker cover of and try switching rockers onto the valve that it damaged. This 'may' be caused by something being out shape? Does it look worn or dinted/whacked ?
Is that valve bent? Does it sit lower or have lower comp on that pot? OR is the rocker excessively worn on that valve, is the pushrod the same size as all others? If there is excessive gap you will be able to see/feel/hear this.
Run it with the rocker cover of and try switching rockers onto the valve that it damaged. This 'may' be caused by something being out shape? Does it look worn or dinted/whacked ?
Well hopefully the saga ended today with these tappets.
The car was taken into the guys that rebuilt the motor in early Feb. On inspection of the valve faces they agreed that the damage was unexceptable and agreed to pull the heads off and replace all valves and tappets. This was fine with me as I was o/seas for at least two months. It was arranged that my old man pick up the car when the job was done; which he did and took it for a couple of lengthy stints.
Car was then taken back to the rebuilders with some slight noises which disappeared after retentioning.
OK - Got back from o/seas and went visiting friends down the coast (round about 800 or 900kms in total). Drove to NSW to the Tuff Truck Challenge and Back (round about 2500kms including some side trips) Listened to tappets for the entire trip back to Melbourne from Sydney.
Back to the mechanics who are looking a little sick of my car (stiff). Two tappets had collapsed. They have replace the two dodgy ones again and all is sweet (for the time). They are a little bewildered as to why I am getting so many faulty parts but have not once complained about doing the work over and over again. "ALL WORK GUARANTEED" - gotta luv it!
Fingers crossed !!!!!!!
The car was taken into the guys that rebuilt the motor in early Feb. On inspection of the valve faces they agreed that the damage was unexceptable and agreed to pull the heads off and replace all valves and tappets. This was fine with me as I was o/seas for at least two months. It was arranged that my old man pick up the car when the job was done; which he did and took it for a couple of lengthy stints.
Car was then taken back to the rebuilders with some slight noises which disappeared after retentioning.
OK - Got back from o/seas and went visiting friends down the coast (round about 800 or 900kms in total). Drove to NSW to the Tuff Truck Challenge and Back (round about 2500kms including some side trips) Listened to tappets for the entire trip back to Melbourne from Sydney.
Back to the mechanics who are looking a little sick of my car (stiff). Two tappets had collapsed. They have replace the two dodgy ones again and all is sweet (for the time). They are a little bewildered as to why I am getting so many faulty parts but have not once complained about doing the work over and over again. "ALL WORK GUARANTEED" - gotta luv it!
Fingers crossed !!!!!!!
When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading
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