rangie hubs to series housing

[F'n_Rover]

I'm looking to convert my s111 109 to a '74 rangie disk brake setup
by using rangie swivels and hubs with 30 spline toyota axels and c/v's
also with toyota centre's, I've got all this.

i need to make a spacer from the series axle housing to the rangie hub
as they dont match up and i also need to widen the wheel track for the toyota axels to fit.
For the drive member i need to make an adapter but dont think this will be too hard...

a few questions for the gurus.

what sort of steel do i need to machine the swivel ball spacers from?
i'm a bit woried about this as they could be up to 50mm thick.

and any ideas on adapting something for the steering links?

any help / advice apreaciated. thanks

[THE 109]

i've done a conversion from stage 1 drum brakes to range rover disk brakes if you're interested,if still leaf sprung are your springs in the way of the rangy track rod?

[landy_man]

would it not be easier just to buy some Hilux axles complete and swap them in... I believe Slunnie has done just that

[F'n_Rover]

109 - probaly looking at something like this to clear the springs [http://www.offroaddesign.com/Dana60crossover.htm]
except with the track rod up top.



landyman - it would be heaps easier but i've already got most of what i need to do it with the rangie stuff. If it can be done at all.
ive got access to lathes, mills cylindrical grinders its just going to be more time to complete. also reckon landies look silly with those little toyota wheel nuts.[/url]

[Tdi200]

i've done a conversion from stage 1 drum brakes to range rover disk brakes if you're interested,if still leaf sprung are your springs in the way of the rangy track rod?

I run a stage one front axle and would like to know more of what you did to convert to rangie disks. Any pics or diagrams will be very helpful although with a good description of what has been done is also a great help.

Thanks Patrick

[F'n_Rover]

me to
BTW just checked the rangie front stub. 1mm~ too small an id to fit a 30 spline yota axel through. also the ball id is around 1.5mm~ too small but there is heaps of meat to machine out. I'll makem fit.

just gota make sure i can get a full floating rear toy axel set. could be looking at 4 wheel disks

[ISUZUROVER]

i've done a conversion from stage 1 drum brakes to range rover disk brakes if you're interested,if still leaf sprung are your springs in the way of the rangy track rod?

I run a stage one front axle and would like to know more of what you did to convert to rangie disks. Any pics or diagrams will be very helpful although with a good description of what has been done is also a great help.

Thanks Patrick

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... ht=springs

Have a look here, about half way down.

[ISUZUROVER]

me to
BTW just checked the rangie front stub. 1mm~ too small an id to fit a 30 spline yota axel through. also the ball id is around 1.5mm~ too small but there is heaps of meat to machine out. I'll makem fit.

just gota make sure i can get a full floating rear toy axel set. could be looking at 4 wheel disks

popeye, it would be a good idea to read all the hilux/toyota conversion threads that are on here (search will find them). They have discussed all the issues about machining the stub axles to fit the toyota CV's and machining new brass bushes for the end (macnamara has these off the shelf).

Here is one...

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... conversion

[ISUZUROVER]

what sort of steel do i need to machine the swivel ball spacers from?
i'm a bit woried about this as they could be up to 50mm thick.

and any ideas on adapting something for the steering links?

It would be a bad idea to make bolt on spacers. Why not get a whole Range rover housing. The 60 series (?) short axle is within a mm or two of a rangie short axle, so you can use a stock housing/axle on one side, you just have to narrow (I think) the long side of the rangie housing to use a toy axle on that side.

For the steering you either need to make some sort of hi-steer, or get hold of the swivel from a LHD rangie (hard to do in OZ) so you have 2 steering arms on the front and can move the track rod to the front.

[F'n_Rover]

thanks Ben.
yep, the spacer is a very bad idea.
i had read all the threads i could find on toyota axels previously.
re-read them again, this time without a gut full of beer.
I now understand whats involved ( i think ).
will be going the rangie housing,
Ive got a few ideas on the steering setup which hopefully dont involve a trip to the states!

again thanks, you saved me a lot of wasted time on doing stupid shit.

anyone got an early front rangie diff housing ? cheap. In melb.

[Tdi200]

i've done a conversion from stage 1 drum brakes to range rover disk brakes if you're interested,if still leaf sprung are your springs in the way of the rangy track rod?

I run a stage one front axle and would like to know more of what you did to convert to rangie disks. Any pics or diagrams will be very helpful although with a good description of what has been done is also a great help.

Thanks Patrick

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... ht=springs

Have a look here, about half way down.

Thanks Ben, i did not see what hubs were used, machined series hubs or rangie? disks rangie? I am asking as using rangie hubs is no good as they have 5 bolt drive flanges while the series hubs are 6, any ideas?

Patrick

[andrew e]

For the steering you either need to make some sort of hi-steer, or get hold of the swivel from a LHD rangie (hard to do in OZ) so you have 2 steering arms on the front and can move the track rod to the front.

Some (mabe all) td5 offenders have the unused LHD swivel aswell.

Andrew

[THE 109]

the bolts used in the top swivel pin to hold the upper caliper mount were the same thread as original studs but longer from the local bolt shop.the one bolt which holds the lower mount was from an old rover diff(bearing cap bolt) that i had in my collection of "landy bolts".extra bolts for middle mounts were 3/8" unf and the housing was drilled and tapped to suit.all mounts were tacked on with disk and caliper in place to ensure all lined up.the calipers themselves had their mounting lugs cut off flush to clear the swivel housing and the two end bolts were replaced with 10mm longer ones,which now hold the caliper on.all the mounts were fabricated from 10mm steel and was passed by an approved engineer.the swivel housings need to be swapped from left to right for the flat surface to attach the middle mount,so now to fill the swivel housing up you do it from the front.the calipers were drilled inside the lower pot to allow brake fluid to enter both pots while only using one flexible brakeline,plug off the second port.the hubs were machined to allow a REAR disk which has less offset to clear the swivel housing,can't use a front disk as it would foul on the steering rod ends and swivel housing.the problem with using rear disks on the front is the smaller diameter doesn't give you full pad contact and as the caliper is now sitting further out in comparison to the wheel mounting surface,standard series wheels won't fit.disco,sunrasia's and so on don't have a problem.all you need is 8mm spacing to get standard wheels to fit.
the calipers need to be swapped left to right aswell to clear the shocks,a small diameter shock is needed also.I went to the extent of removing the stone sheilds aswell for extra clearance when articutlating at full lock.
I made up some 8mm drive flange spacers as the rangy hub is shallower,series drive flanges were modified also:weld up 5 out of the 6 holes,then redrill to suit rangy PCD of 5 holes total,not 6.
I think that was about it and it pulled up well enough for a brake test,but if I were to do it again I would use a rangy master cyl and booster with dual circuits.the series 3 master and booster aren't really matched for disk brakes.

[Tdi200]

Thanks for the explanation, that makes so many things clear, i knew rangie hubs would fit and the the rear disks need to be used but the drive flange and caliper mounting where always the guessing part. I will probably be using 90 calipers as those are available for free .

Now one last question, i also know that early 90 hubs should fit, the also have 5 bolt 24 spline drive flanges, if i were to us a pair of these then the drive flanges should fit the stage one cv??, but i guess the shaft lenght might be an issue. I belive stage one cvs have a longer shaft then the coiler cvs.........

I guess i should get cracking and get a 90 hub, dismantle the front end and measure all the stuff as i think it might just work.

Thanks for the input, it has given me the inspiration to really convert the landy to disks.

Patrick

[THE 109]

the drive flanges should fit but you may need make some spacers to suit the extra length of the stage 1 cv(if it is actually longer).
Are you using stage 1 stub axles? as the earlier series stub axles had different bearings.With machining your rangy hubs to get your disk further out you need to try the disk up to the swivel housing,to determine how much to machine without the disk hitting the steering rod ends and swivel housing.

[Tdi200]

Thanks for the tip, i use stage one stubs so a 90 hub should slip right on. I will have to determine if the bearing nuts will need a spacer to preload the bearings, if the stub is also longer, and other niggling bits which are solved by fitting the bits together as i go along.

I know that some thing like this will never fit well 1st time round so i might have to juggle the parts a bit until everything sort of matches. But as soon as i lay my hands on a couple of 90 hubs i will get working.

My choice of 90 hubs is that they are available here in good numbers and cheap 2nd hand while early rangie hubs are a bit scarce. My concern is that 90 flanges tend to be soft and tend to strip the splines. Its still worth a try!

Another question, sorry for being so inquisitive, but why did you mount the caliper behind the axle and not in front?? I am asking as you mention that you have a close fit due to the shockers, is it due to the steering linkages (balljoints) in front??

Thanks again
Patrick

[THE 109]

the 90 hub should be the same depth so i don't think you'll need to space out your wheel bearing nuts,just the drive flange.for the drive flanges series 3 items were more than adequate,the 90 ones should be OK to use or you can buy some from maxidrive.It didn't even cross my mind to fit the calipers in front but i think the track rod and rod ends would be in the way,i'd be interested to see if you could do it.