Manual to auto swap in Danger.

[SeriousIIa]

Took the LT77+LT230 out of Danger yesterday because it had no drive. foudn out the splines were completely stripped:


So took the LT77 out of my donor to fit it. Ready lying for fitting decided to check the splines too (had driven the unit and there was no backlash then but just to be sure check it. Good decision I think:

Almost half of the splines worn. So pretty useless too.

I can let the LT77 rebuild or fit the ZF auto I've got lying around (only has done 40.000 miles) so decided go for the auto.

It has a B&W fitted. As I understand I can swap this over for a LT230. without probs. Probably have to buy a new input gear because the ones form the LT77 are worn too? or can use the old one?

Also any tips for mating the auto to engine? Do I need to mount the toque converter first or just put in in as a whole and bolt the torque converter later one the flywheel? (i'm new to this auto stuff)



Cheers Bowy

[SeriousIIa]

66 views and no tips/tricks about mating the auto to the engine?? :(

Cheers Bowy who's a bit disappointed.

[Aquarangie]

Okay, I am cutrrently doing a ZF auto conversion on my 83 Rangie and I have found out (the hard way) certain things need looking at.

Firstly, especially going from manual to auto check that you have some sort of wiring diagram so you can work out where to plug your park/neutal switch into to stop you starting the Rangie in R or D,3,2,1. Back in '83 LR still made manual-only models, but yours being a later model it wouldn't surprise me if the plug is there, so thatwould be a simple hurdle. Mine's off to the local auto sparky, not good with electrical me so that can be left to the experts

Also I had to fabricate the kickdown cable mount. Yours may need doing so too, but may already have provisions for it (if you still are running the standard 3.5 EFI V8) but once again I had did some home fabricating on the throttle spindle to get ti to fit properly as well as make up a l-shaped bracket to fix the cable to the rocker cover. Not hard, but fiddly. It's important that you set the kickdown cable up propwrly or you could risk damaging the ZF. If you are not sure, have it set-up professionally. A small price to pay compared to rebuil;duibng the Zf for a larg cost (it's is here in Australia).

The output ahaft will only need replacing if you are fitting up a LT230 from a later Discovery (95 onwards I think). I had to fit a new one because I had the same issue. Not to worry, better off doing it nowthen skimp and finsd out a few months down the trak that it will need re-newing 9common sense really). If you can, pick up a later 'T' series LT230 because it has the cross drilled output gear and won't wear the shaft out unlike the earlier ones without the gear drilled out.

There are other obstacles that will need doing, but being that yours is a later model it will be a bit easier than doing one on an older Rangie like mine. The fiddly stuff and sometimes 'snags' along the way are definatly well worth it long term. ZF autos are much better 'box than LT77 would ever be all-round.

I'm sure I have left a few things out, but there's plenty of knowlegeable blokes on here that may fill in the holes.

Good luck with the conversion. Like I said, you won't regret it.

Trav

[SeriousIIa]

Trav,

Thanx for the input. Already ordered a crossdilled gear so that's taken care off. Got original 3,5 EFI kickdown mount so shouldn't be a problem still have to look for the correct wiring harnass..... (but 89 RR so probably be okay)

For mating the box. Should I first put the torque converter to the engine or the whole box with torque converter at once? and then bolt on from behind?

Cheers Bowy

[up2nogood]

Torque converter to gearbox (always) and make sure you've spun it on the input shaft a few times to make sure it's on fully.

[Aquarangie]

Should I first put the torque converter to the engine or the whole box with torque converter at once? and then bolt on from behind?

Yes, an important note I forgot about

You will find out that the torque converter doesn't align when you go to mate the autop the the rear of your engine and it doesn't bolt up properly.

When you have aligned the torque converter it should have some resistence and be a tight fit.

Good luck with it once again.

Trav

[Bush65]

Bowy,

I haven't had anything to do with rover autos. I assume you will need to replace the flywheel with a drive plate for the torque convertor.

Also I seem to remember posts about ZF auto failures if some part (pump drive maybe???) is not aligned or engaged properly when the box is bolted up to the engine.

[Loanrangie]

Bowy,

I haven't had anything to do with rover autos. I assume you will need to replace the flywheel with a drive plate for the torque convertor.

Also I seem to remember posts about ZF auto failures if some part (pump drive maybe???) is not aligned or engaged properly when the box is bolted up to the engine.

Yes, i beleive this is to do with making sure that the t/ converter is fully inserted so that in engages with the teeth in the oil pump correctly ?

[PeterO]

You will need the drive plate setup to replace your flywheel it is a weird thing of about four pieces from memory the first bit bolts to the crank and you need the allen headed bolts for that then a ring gear an extension and finaly a drive plate for the converter to bolt too this assembally is timed so it should only fit one way(I think)
I hope you have all those bits. Also there are shims to go in between the boss and the ring gear( may have something to do with pump failure on incorrectly installed units) that set the depth of the whole lot into the box and keep the starter within tolerances I remember having to use a caliper to measure from the block to the ring gear to get the right shims in.
Get a copy of the workshop manual and follow it close.
The tensions are important on the crank bolts and the crank dowl (if fitted) had to be removed also the bolts holding the drive plate to the extension have very thin heads so dont round them off trying to get the thing tight.
As I said this is just from memory so get the manual and read it or do a but it back the way you find it on the donor car.
Best of luck