My shorty GQ has a knock coming from the floor pan on both drivers and passengers side. It has had a 2 inch body lift using solid alum blocks and longer bolts.
Any views on where the knock maybe cioming from
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floor pan knock
floor pan knock
worthog who likes to play in the mud, just follow me, if you can
does it do it when you pull off and also just before you come to a stop?
mine does this too and I was certain it was the radius arm bushes as they were totally shagged, but ive just replaced them and its the same
Im now gonna strip and check the wheel bearings as its been suggested that they could be the problem (im not 100% convinced but they need doing anyway). My body mounts appear fine though.
mine does this too and I was certain it was the radius arm bushes as they were totally shagged, but ive just replaced them and its the same
Im now gonna strip and check the wheel bearings as its been suggested that they could be the problem (im not 100% convinced but they need doing anyway). My body mounts appear fine though.
The hardest thing about owning a jeep is telling your parents you're g a y!!
worn body mount rubbers, get some 6mm square building washers remove the nut off the bolts going through the rubber mount, put washer in put nut on and do up. The steel sleeve inside the mount should tighten up inside the centre hole of the washer thus squashing the body mount or in other words removing the wear out of the rubber mount...or you could just buy new ones... this has worked on 3 swb I know of...
a 30c washer and 5mins to find out could save you a lot of time and work
a 30c washer and 5mins to find out could save you a lot of time and work
.....
This is what I figured. The body mounts have an inner crush tube.... THey may apear fine from a casual glance but actually are farked and moving...
So reinforcing the floor pan is definitely the way to go when doing a body lift... ???
Mounts aren't cheap. Have uncle as parts manager in some sydney store can get most things at a significant discount and body mounts kit for a SWB were still around the $200 mark..
THe noise shites me too and worries new passengers...hehehe
So reinforcing the floor pan is definitely the way to go when doing a body lift... ???
Mounts aren't cheap. Have uncle as parts manager in some sydney store can get most things at a significant discount and body mounts kit for a SWB were still around the $200 mark..
THe noise shites me too and worries new passengers...hehehe
[quote="MSCHIF"]SPUA its like shaving a barbie dolls head, amusing but pointless.[/quote]
The hole on the chassis where the mount sits wears. Only 1mm makes a lot for the mount to slipl as body flexes. Goes "thump" under your feet. More so when wet as lubed.
Ovetightening has only a limited effect as all it does is compresses rubber a bit more making it harder. Not what you really need there.
Shortening tube does nothing more than pull floor pan down against one side and can cause problems like floor cracks, door misalignment etc.
As mount can always move due to design, and has too as it floats around chassis.it will always make a noise if there is clearance there. Nissan use a thin layer of rubber (1mm) to give friction but this soon wears away.
Same idea as pin type shock mounts with the thin "lipped" washer to locate bushes centrally on mounting hole.
In the past on badly worn ones a quick fix without resorting to wedind and fixing hole wear is to clean mounting surfaces and use glue to take up wear. Lasts about 6 months. Easy to redo if you have a body lift as block slips out when undone and mount can be lifted up and removed.
Its this lip that makes original mount hard to remove without jacking body up on Nissan with no body lift.
Glue Ive used with reasonable sucess was Liquid nails, liquid metal .
Must be real clean.
Bazzle
Ovetightening has only a limited effect as all it does is compresses rubber a bit more making it harder. Not what you really need there.
Shortening tube does nothing more than pull floor pan down against one side and can cause problems like floor cracks, door misalignment etc.
As mount can always move due to design, and has too as it floats around chassis.it will always make a noise if there is clearance there. Nissan use a thin layer of rubber (1mm) to give friction but this soon wears away.
Same idea as pin type shock mounts with the thin "lipped" washer to locate bushes centrally on mounting hole.
In the past on badly worn ones a quick fix without resorting to wedind and fixing hole wear is to clean mounting surfaces and use glue to take up wear. Lasts about 6 months. Easy to redo if you have a body lift as block slips out when undone and mount can be lifted up and removed.
Its this lip that makes original mount hard to remove without jacking body up on Nissan with no body lift.
Glue Ive used with reasonable sucess was Liquid nails, liquid metal .
Must be real clean.
Bazzle
I had a knock under my front passenger seat that only happened under load going up hill. I found the chassis cross member under the gearbox was bent up 20mm and reduced the clearance between the floor and the drive shaft near the handbrake. It was thumping against the floor when the torque moved it up and down. Got one from wreckers for $60. Noise gone now.
My GQ is making this bloody noise too!! I haven't got any body lift in it, but it only makes the noise on take off in first gear, and in any given gear when your slowing down and the revs drop below 1000rpm. It also does it when its idling low when cold. I have got a stuffed rear control arm bush, but the noise is coming from the front. I had a quick look to see if it was something stupid like the exhaust hitting the chassis, or a broken engine mount, but nothing really seemed too obvious. I'll check the body mounts for play tonight.
Coxy
Coxy
lol
lol...
Had same problem and was fixed when replaced the old springs... The spring retainers on the front were well and truely...
Hope that helps.
I had really really well worn and old springs.
Had same problem and was fixed when replaced the old springs... The spring retainers on the front were well and truely...
Hope that helps.
I had really really well worn and old springs.
Don't expect to see my recipe, until I receive my cheque and collection fee
mine knocks when the handbrake is on at idle. and when i turn the thing off with the handbrake on. if i take the handbrake off and use the pedal, it goes quiet. wierd.... my gearbox mounts dont look 100%. ant ideas?
96 GQ LWB, Rd28T, nothing exciting, but CLEAAAAAN. 2" Kings flexy's, long shocks, custom dump, 3" zorst, fuel screw meddled with.
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