Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
new tube bar
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
new tube bar
thoughts on my tubebar,
made it about 4 months ago,
wondering if others would like similar ones?
likes and dislikes on bar for future ones?
currently developing 80 series one, and rangie to follow then GU
made it about 4 months ago,
wondering if others would like similar ones?
likes and dislikes on bar for future ones?
currently developing 80 series one, and rangie to follow then GU
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Jeep Wrangler TJ
Jeep Cherokee XJ
Jeep Cherokee XJ
it looks good, only thing i can see is ... where does the number plate go?
98 Xtra Cab Lux.... slowly filling up with the Budscustoms Catalogue : Street, Track & Trail - Parts & Fabrication
Budscustoms Facebook Page
Budscustoms Facebook Page
well after doing calcs on bar
the eye bolts found there place as they can take load due to 9mm washers being used on M20 eye bolts, but again, i think for future bars i might put them on the flat, or hooks on the side. just to apease people who dont believe my calculations (yes i'm an engineer)
and again after puting my bar on a finite element program, the wrap around bar came up much, i mean much weaker than useing a cap at the end. So for strength i used a cap. bull bar should be strong after all.
you'll nowtice 3 bars per side for added strength. cna't see how any bar with only 2 bars on each side could get ADR approval. jsut too weak.
maxxis are good in mud if you go below 10psi
number plate will be put above the roller fairlead when i get aroudn to it
the eye bolts found there place as they can take load due to 9mm washers being used on M20 eye bolts, but again, i think for future bars i might put them on the flat, or hooks on the side. just to apease people who dont believe my calculations (yes i'm an engineer)
and again after puting my bar on a finite element program, the wrap around bar came up much, i mean much weaker than useing a cap at the end. So for strength i used a cap. bull bar should be strong after all.
you'll nowtice 3 bars per side for added strength. cna't see how any bar with only 2 bars on each side could get ADR approval. jsut too weak.
maxxis are good in mud if you go below 10psi
number plate will be put above the roller fairlead when i get aroudn to it
Jeep Wrangler TJ
Jeep Cherokee XJ
Jeep Cherokee XJ
assembly of the whole bar was about 3-4 hours. from laser cut patterns to the whole bar
I'm liking all the feed back guys.
Making one that dosnt have the highmount set back in the grill is very easy, 2 min on the computer and it's all changed. Right now this one has teh winch set back 50mm from the front of the grill. therefore the whole bar would sit 2" fwd.
can be made to suit body lifts or not.
bogged, i think i will have the bars closer to the tyres next time.
I'm liking all the feed back guys.
Making one that dosnt have the highmount set back in the grill is very easy, 2 min on the computer and it's all changed. Right now this one has teh winch set back 50mm from the front of the grill. therefore the whole bar would sit 2" fwd.
can be made to suit body lifts or not.
bogged, i think i will have the bars closer to the tyres next time.
Jeep Wrangler TJ
Jeep Cherokee XJ
Jeep Cherokee XJ
YankeeDave wrote:well after doing calcs on bar
the eye bolts found there place as they can take load due to 9mm washers being used on M20 eye bolts, but again, i think for future bars i might put them on the flat, or hooks on the side. just to apease people who dont believe my calculations (yes i'm an engineer)
and again after puting my bar on a finite element program, the wrap around bar came up much, i mean much weaker than useing a cap at the end. So for strength i used a cap. bull bar should be strong after all.
you'll nowtice 3 bars per side for added strength. cna't see how any bar with only 2 bars on each side could get ADR approval. jsut too weak.
maxxis are good in mud if you go below 10psi
number plate will be put above the roller fairlead when i get aroudn to it
you even talk like an engineer
if you want to be successful commercially, you have to realise you'll need to give the customers what they want. function is good, but without the form, you're limiting your products potential. do a structural analysis of say an arb bar. it could probably be made stronger in many ways, but look how successful that bar design is. it's on every third fourby and copied by nearly all the bullbar mfg mobs. i'm building a bar for a friends car. i've looked at the options and plating the end like yours is the easiest way to join tube. wrap around corners require a LOT more work. but i believe it's worth giving people what they want. also, i hate to give scruby any credit but there is a much higher risk of hurting pedestrians on the corner than if the bar wrapped around. just some food for thought, because you asked for opinions.
haa haa... i didnt even read this. Just saw the pic, and made comment about teh wrap around.YankeeDave wrote:well after doing calcs on bar
the eye bolts found there place as they can take load due to 9mm washers being used on M20 eye bolts, but again, i think for future bars i might put them on the flat, or hooks on the side. just to apease people who dont believe my calculations (yes i'm an engineer)
and again after puting my bar on a finite element program, the wrap around bar came up much, i mean much weaker than useing a cap at the end. So for strength i used a cap. bull bar should be strong after all.
you'll nowtice 3 bars per side for added strength. cna't see how any bar with only 2 bars on each side could get ADR approval. jsut too weak.
maxxis are good in mud if you go below 10psi
number plate will be put above the roller fairlead when i get aroudn to it
I love the FEA for bar design..... how cool (yeah I'm an engineer too) Did someone say NERD
Okay, so the plate at the end makes it stronger. And I can see why, cause the deflections would be limited by stopping and joining there.
What about like a two section??? Have the front of the bar end with plate, and have the wrap around join to the plate??? Put any oustanding sections on the inside for the safety aspect. This limits the cantilever section and reduces the moment arm....... hope you get what i'm trying to say.
Heath & Melissa - 93 GQ LWB.
this is the bar i made for my patrol. nice and high great approach angle.
rounded ends.
rounded ends.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Last edited by giantracing on Tue May 24, 2005 8:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
build em tuff, drive em ruff.........
Custom 4wd Creations Brisbane
0438279890
Custom 4wd Creations Brisbane
0438279890
YankeeDave wrote:all good ideas,
Better go purchase a decent pipe bender
If you're gonna play with your sig you'd better!!!
Nice work and I've seen the bar hold the car up on a forklift under the two top tubes(on sides) testament to the build quality and welding.
Wraps are nice but what about corner protection for headlights (always handy??)
80 Series Turbo - the Toy car...
XR6 Turbo - the work car...
XW wagon - the dogs car...
XR6 Turbo - the work car...
XW wagon - the dogs car...
Looks good, however there are a few things that wouldn't be legal in QLD:
(a) all 4 spot lights
(b) spikes to hold winch hook (looks like they are forward of the front profile of the bar, must be behind to be legal.
(c) side plates are probably a gray area.
The basic rule is that there can be no "protrusions" forward or above the profile of the bar (except CB aerials), and no "sharp" corners - See P10.
http://www.transport.qld.gov.au/qt/LTAS ... _Jan05.pdf
(a) all 4 spot lights
(b) spikes to hold winch hook (looks like they are forward of the front profile of the bar, must be behind to be legal.
(c) side plates are probably a gray area.
The basic rule is that there can be no "protrusions" forward or above the profile of the bar (except CB aerials), and no "sharp" corners - See P10.
http://www.transport.qld.gov.au/qt/LTAS ... _Jan05.pdf
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Yeh i like it aswell.
Could you make a rounder top hoop? That would be cool
What about angling the plates for the edges as to deflect trees/crap better?
Maybe hooks to the side of the winch cradle section & a hawse so it doesnt have as many protrusions.
Dave
Could you make a rounder top hoop? That would be cool
What about angling the plates for the edges as to deflect trees/crap better?
Maybe hooks to the side of the winch cradle section & a hawse so it doesnt have as many protrusions.
Dave
Land Rover Discovery - GQ conversion underway
spazbot wrote:i think you need to look at what other places are already selling similar to this and improve, cause atm yours looks very plain and boring compared to others on the market
I think once you see teh deign you'll agree this is an improvement - super tough, built by an engineer with strength and functionality in mind. I'm hooking one up for my car - and it'll rock. I'd go practicality over bling anyday - and so would most people - especially for the price!!!!
Simple = not crying over bent bling...
80 Series Turbo - the Toy car...
XR6 Turbo - the work car...
XW wagon - the dogs car...
XR6 Turbo - the work car...
XW wagon - the dogs car...
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 44 guests