I'm about to set the pinion angle on my buggy, but I don't know too much about it. I know pinion angle needs to be within about 5 degrees, but I don't know much else about it. if you have any links to websites or just information about it could you please let me know.
thanks in advance for your replies.
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Pinion angle
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Pinion angle
Pannel Damage, the more you get the less you care, the harder you drive!
Golden rule (theory) is that the output of the drive shaft (pinion end) must be parallel with the input (transfer end). This will ensure that the variations in velocity across the non constant velocity joint (uni) will cancel each other out...and ultimately negate any vibration.
Truth is that with some you can get away with it and with some you can't.
If the driveshaft angle is steep then a little pinion angle will go along way to reducing the angle and will benefit from a more direct drive as well as reducing uni stress and wear. Also because it will be predominently a low speed vehicle then vibration caused by possible misalignment is not a major issue.
Finally...if it is the front axle then pinion angle can be critical as it will denote your castor angle and can greatly affect your steering.
Truth is that with some you can get away with it and with some you can't.
If the driveshaft angle is steep then a little pinion angle will go along way to reducing the angle and will benefit from a more direct drive as well as reducing uni stress and wear. Also because it will be predominently a low speed vehicle then vibration caused by possible misalignment is not a major issue.
Finally...if it is the front axle then pinion angle can be critical as it will denote your castor angle and can greatly affect your steering.
www.4wdtv.com.au
SPOA FJ40, 400hp stroker, ARB locked x2, Silverstones, Superwinch, Narva lights, EFS springs, 1284 RTI...
SPOA FJ40, 400hp stroker, ARB locked x2, Silverstones, Superwinch, Narva lights, EFS springs, 1284 RTI...
HSV Rangie has the theories right. However, I do know that on the early Bronco bobtails, which had an upper CV joint and the pinion in line with the drivshaft, when those CV´s wore out, many guys just put in a traditional single U-joint and lengthened the driveshaft, instead of replacing the grotesquely expensive CV. Few ever complained of vibrations.
Never, ever turn up your whole front axle to let the pinion meet the driveshaft angle: Negative caster is a disaster.
It´s not that complicated to loosen up the knuckles on the axle and turn the axle without altering the caster.
Any workshop worth it´s salts should be able to do it. If your working with an older vehicle it may be set uo with zero degrees caster. In that case it would be a good thing to work in some caster once the axle is in pieces. 4 - 5 degrees is about right. Of course the more caster you´ve got, the heavier the vehicle will be to stear, (hardly noticeable with 4 or 5 degrees and power stearing) and more willing to right itself out of turns. If the vehicle is a strict rock crawler that hardly ever is driven on roads, zero degrees is ok. It´s always a compromise. I had a CJ5 ´55 once, no caster originally, in which I built in 5 degrees and that was the straightest going car I´ve ever had; I could drive far over the speed limit and take my hands of the wheel; that thang just went straight down the road, while other, compairable jeeps were dancing all over the place at far lesser speeds.
It depends on what the vehicle will be used for, as always!
Never, ever turn up your whole front axle to let the pinion meet the driveshaft angle: Negative caster is a disaster.
It´s not that complicated to loosen up the knuckles on the axle and turn the axle without altering the caster.
Any workshop worth it´s salts should be able to do it. If your working with an older vehicle it may be set uo with zero degrees caster. In that case it would be a good thing to work in some caster once the axle is in pieces. 4 - 5 degrees is about right. Of course the more caster you´ve got, the heavier the vehicle will be to stear, (hardly noticeable with 4 or 5 degrees and power stearing) and more willing to right itself out of turns. If the vehicle is a strict rock crawler that hardly ever is driven on roads, zero degrees is ok. It´s always a compromise. I had a CJ5 ´55 once, no caster originally, in which I built in 5 degrees and that was the straightest going car I´ve ever had; I could drive far over the speed limit and take my hands of the wheel; that thang just went straight down the road, while other, compairable jeeps were dancing all over the place at far lesser speeds.
It depends on what the vehicle will be used for, as always!
if you don´t know its impossible, you just might do it!
pinion angle
What about broken back set up. (mine works a treat.HSV Rangie wrote:Pinion angle
HSV Rangie You can do the pic
With UJ's both ends of the drive shaft (no cv or double cardin joint), if the angles are not equal (as in the 2nd pic), the velocity of the UJ's will be out of phase and not cancel each other.
However, rovers point the pinion of the front diff up and rotate the UJ's in relation to each other so that they do cancel.
However, rovers point the pinion of the front diff up and rotate the UJ's in relation to each other so that they do cancel.
John
Just found out all about that! My set up is like the double cardin pic. My pinion bearing is now growling. An extra litre of oil and a tube of Moly Bond has done a good job of quietening it done, but damage is done so it wont go away totally.Ryan wrote:been wondering for a while when you lift the pinion (diff) up to setup a Double Cardain joint like in the pic above... wouldnt the pinion bearings in the diff then starve for oil?
I pointed the Surf down a steep bit of drive and also drove up some car ramps to lift the rear higher so I could get the oil in.
You could also top up through diff breather too but then you dont know where the levels are at.
Does any one know what would happen with tooooo much diff oil??? Just an over flow up the breather??
Cheers,
Alec
GO the 80...The mods have started :-)
you would start getting oil up the axle tubes rather than in the centre bottom, and would cause the axle seals to blow out and u would get diff oild leaking down the back of your tyresSurfin Alec wrote:Just found out all about that! My set up is like the double cardin pic. My pinion bearing is now growling. An extra litre of oil and a tube of Moly Bond has done a good job of quietening it done, but damage is done so it wont go away totally.Ryan wrote:been wondering for a while when you lift the pinion (diff) up to setup a Double Cardain joint like in the pic above... wouldnt the pinion bearings in the diff then starve for oil?
I pointed the Surf down a steep bit of drive and also drove up some car ramps to lift the rear higher so I could get the oil in.
You could also top up through diff breather too but then you dont know where the levels are at.
Does any one know what would happen with tooooo much diff oil??? Just an over flow up the breather??
Cheers,
Alec
TUFF TRUCK TEAM OPPOSITE LOCK Proudly Sponsored By:
Opposite Lock Narellan, Lightforce Australia, Offroad Systems, Judd Panels, Townsend Signs, RDG Engineering, Central Safety Workwear
Opposite Lock Narellan, Lightforce Australia, Offroad Systems, Judd Panels, Townsend Signs, RDG Engineering, Central Safety Workwear
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 24 guests