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DEEV8 wrote:i think your slightly missing the point. what might happen and what he tells the insurer may be entirely different things...
Im talking about VICROADS.. fuck the insurer. Why would Vicroads think for one second his would be any different to the other thousands of 4bs on the road?
A GU AIRBAG IS SET OFF BY THE DIAGNOSIS SENSOR THAT SITS UNDER THE CENTER CONSOLE. THERE IS NOTHING AT THE FRONT OF THE CAR. THIS SENSOR IS SET OF BY THE FORCE OF IMPACT ,WORKS A BIT LIKE A SEAT BELT ONCE IT SENSORS TO CERTAIN POINT IT SETS OF THE AIR BAG.
DEEV8 wrote:well then why the hell cant we do body lifts??
i really really really want one but at the moment its never going to happen with these Grimace rules and shit...
Whos to stop you.
Ok the insurance company might not want to pay for serious injuries that may have bee prevented if you have an air bag. But they couldn't refuse the whole claim unless they can prove that it was a major contributing facter to having the accident.
My club
www.vfwdc.com My store
Everything 4WD
86 Camms Road Cranbourne
www.everything4wd.com.au
sales@everything4wd.com.au
Phone: 03 59955055
The body lift is in. It looks great. Changed to a slightly heavier sring front and rear. The rear wheels still rub but now hae more flex than before as the rear can go up event higher.
I have a slight creeking noise from the rear. I'm assuming that it is the body block moving a fraction. Is this a common thing with body lifted vehicles. (aluminium blocks). If so fine, just want to make sure I dont have complications further down the track. Have heard a few horror stories with body lifts done wrong.
My club
www.vfwdc.com My store
Everything 4WD
86 Camms Road Cranbourne
www.everything4wd.com.au
sales@everything4wd.com.au
Phone: 03 59955055
Jonno,
Have you also moved the rear cargo floor supports up, apparently a lot of GQ's didnt and had trouble. just passing on what i know. Could be the cause of creaking???????
AndrewPatrol wrote:Jonno, Have you also moved the rear cargo floor supports up, apparently a lot of GQ's didnt and had trouble. just passing on what i know. Could be the cause of creaking???????
Not too sure what you meen?
My club
www.vfwdc.com My store
Everything 4WD
86 Camms Road Cranbourne
www.everything4wd.com.au
sales@everything4wd.com.au
Phone: 03 59955055
if you look underthe rear wheel arch, between the chassis and body there two rubber bumpers that support the floor in the cargo area. They are on top of the cross member that goes under the floor, between the chassis rails. If you dont do 'em then the floor can flexx more than it should and crack.
Just had a look underneath and can see two other supports on the cross member which the rear shocks are attatched to.
Are these the ones you're talking about. If so how have others bridged this gap.
My club
www.vfwdc.com My store
Everything 4WD
86 Camms Road Cranbourne
www.everything4wd.com.au
sales@everything4wd.com.au
Phone: 03 59955055
yep, helped a mate do his GQ ones, it a biatch. I'd imagiine that you could glue some hard rubber blocks in on top of the olds or do it the hard way and take out the olds, make up some spacers and re-install. Access can also be gained via the fuel tank panel in the floor of that cargo area. Its not easy at all, thats why I suggested the glue job. I think they have 10mm nuts on em from memory. Dunno about the Patrol forum, havent been on it for a while
AndrewPatrol wrote:take or leave it, just ask yourself why would Nissan put them in? This advice was passed on to me by a competition guy that has been around a bit.
I'll definately look into it...
My club
www.vfwdc.com My store
Everything 4WD
86 Camms Road Cranbourne
www.everything4wd.com.au
sales@everything4wd.com.au
Phone: 03 59955055
I had the body lift (2"s) put in.
I was insured with AAMI and had it itemized on the insurance policy along with the bar and winch etc.
I had an accident a couple of years later, but not with the body lift or bar work on at the time. When the accident was reported they commented on the modifications listed and were only concerned whether I had done any more that they weren't notified of.
The fact that many of the accessories were removed (I was about to sell the truck) had no impact and they paid out to the full value.
Pic of what it looked like.
My club
www.vfwdc.com My store
Everything 4WD
86 Camms Road Cranbourne
www.everything4wd.com.au
sales@everything4wd.com.au
Phone: 03 59955055
For the guys that are interested i can supply bodylift kits to suit GUs
Hi-density nylon blocks,hi-tensile plated bolts,
floor bumpstops & instructions.
cheers
Hi there folks. Im have been flicking through this forum more and more frequently as of late due to my recent purchase of GU II 2000 wagon as well. She is a pearler exempt a cpl minor problems which i'm thinking have been rectified since having a gas fumigation kit pulsing through her. That along with a straight through hot dog 3" exhaust that just squeezes in beside the gas tank. Also i have had a snorkel put on and now intend to step her up even more so!!
I want fatter tyres for some serious offroad. Living in Perth i have so many tracks close to home to choose from and have been in some pretty hairy scenarios.
So, i want to jack her up!!! SUSPENSION OR BODY LIFT ???
I have read all the threads and they are all extremely helpful and offer copius ideas, but there are so many variants and models etc.... Could you pls lend us a hand. I dont want to go to extravagant, however i'm cashed up and want to spend some generous coin on a schmick, not over the top set up. I want quality shocks & coils so i can fit some chunky rubber on. Any suggestions as to what i should get, how high to go, what products to use???
I live in W.A (Perth) and so if someone could recommend a reputable company here in Perth that would be greatly appreciated. Also is it just to complicated to get a body lift?? I know each model differs. I have 2000 GU II wagon. Can this be body lifted without complicating to my insurance??
Now just one other question. Prior to getting the gas fumigation kit installed, thanks to the government grant , THANK YOU, Wow i cant b el;ieve the marked improvement. Absolutely no lag what so ever which we all know was a common problem with the large wagon. She is so responsive and with the fatter exhaust she sounds like a mennace and takes off and each millimeter of de[pression or ellevation on the accelerator is notioceable. But i used to get the engine light indicator coming on occasionally, usually when i gave the throttle a little. She would noticeablly loose power and be sluggish and then would normally turn off after 20 mins. Any ideas of this cause with my model car.
Im also hoping that my model is the later one and haven't yte to experience any major problems with the ZD30 motor. I have read alot of problems with this and am wondering if there is an easy way to establiuch if my dip stick has been shortened or at what point my car was made in proportion to when all the problem vehicles were put out on the market.
Well fellas thanks in advance and hope to see you all out there some time.