Im helping a mate put 60# powersteer into his 47# we have mounted the pump, removed the shock tower, fitted the 55series column, mounted new steering arms on the swivel hubs. We have come across a couple of problems so far and wondering if anybody else has any ideas around them.
1. Because its a 2h motor we used a standard low mounting pump the problem is that the 40 series radiator is narrower than the 60# and the bottom outlet points at the pump and has bugger all clearance. we put an elbow on the rad but i dont think its going to fit still. should we just put some more elbows or is there something we are overlooking??
2. The HZJ steering arms we used come very close to hitting the bottom of the shock on the drivers side it actually hit until i adjusted the bumpstops out a little bit how much clearance should i be looking for here?? should i inboard the shock on the diff?? im a little bit worried because we are going to have to space the tower out 25mm or so from the chassis so the steering column can run past it.
3, lastly with the shock tower we have moved the stud to the otherside of the tower do we just mount it back enough so the shock is vertical? becuase i think this means we are going to have to cut into the guard support a bit
Cheers Tooheys
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60# p/s into 47# in progress couple of problems
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60# p/s into 47# in progress couple of problems
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If at first you dont succeed.......get a bigger HAMMER!!!
1 The last couple I have done with the 2H You just put make the outlet come out of the bottom tank enought to get solder to the fitting then go 90 degree about 3-4 inches then another 90 so the outlet is preety much inline with the side of the radiator. Yuo can still use the original hose heaps of clearance.
2&3 mount the shock mount as close to the gaurd brace as u can. You can cut the inside webbing of the shockie mount I have only ever seen them break the very top off.
P.S have u got the fan blades off a later 2H to clear the pulley.
2&3 mount the shock mount as close to the gaurd brace as u can. You can cut the inside webbing of the shockie mount I have only ever seen them break the very top off.
P.S have u got the fan blades off a later 2H to clear the pulley.
I'm not stuck I'm over here!
Watch where you driven!!!
Watch where you driven!!!
Thanks Skootin with the radiator thats sort of what we thought we would do we have already put one bend on but its very close to the pulley. So with the second 90 bend the outlet will point up? or back towards the firewall??. And with the fan blades i know he brought new ones but im not sure if it is late model, he should still have the reciept so easy fixed if he doesnt. We mounted the tie-rod and drag link and dummy fitted the box last night and found that the old pin for the steering dampner fits the new tie rod did you space the chassis end of the steering dampner down? Also going to hopefully mount the box tonight or tommorow (would of last night but i got a 75 box ) is there any rough measurements to mount it or just put it where it works best??
Cheers Tooheys
Cheers Tooheys
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If at first you dont succeed.......get a bigger HAMMER!!!
I use a straight pipe cut at 45degrees and then go across another 45 then
the outlet faces back like original. Yours may work if you can get the bend into the dish of the pulley trail fit would be the go. I have a damper with no stone gaurd and put that open end onto the chassis with no problems. Just remember to leave some angle in the S/arms when the shackles move forward with spring compression or the arms will bind up.
the outlet faces back like original. Yours may work if you can get the bend into the dish of the pulley trail fit would be the go. I have a damper with no stone gaurd and put that open end onto the chassis with no problems. Just remember to leave some angle in the S/arms when the shackles move forward with spring compression or the arms will bind up.
I'm not stuck I'm over here!
Watch where you driven!!!
Watch where you driven!!!
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