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Replacing a 2.6?
Moderator: -Scott-
Replacing a 2.6?
I've been thinking about the Triton 2.4i motor, and why more people don't use it as a replacement for the 2.6 Astron (such as Xappas did.) Having no life, I did a little research, and thought I should share some info.
The Triton 2.4 is a member of the Sirius range of engines - officially, a 4G64, 2350cc. The Lancer and the (Aussie) Starion (remember the Starion?) both run variants of the 4G63, 1997cc. The largest difference between the two is the stroke - the 2.4 has a 100.0mm stroke, larger than the 2.6 (98.0mm.) Long stroke designs are good for producing torque - which is good for 4wding. Standard compression ratio is 9.5:1.
Crankshaft main journals are the same on both Sirius motors, but the 4G64 has larger diameter conrod journals - should be stronger.
Then I found the good bit: this web site in the US claims the manifold bolt patterns are the same on both motors, so the turbo system from the 4G63 should bolt straight on.
Is it just me, or does that sound like an appealing combination for a Gen1 Shorty? Swap out the Astron for a 2.4 Sirius, then bolt on a turbo - using essentially factory components? You'd want to keep the boost down if you've got the factory compression, but for short course work, or hill climbs?
I can see my Sigma receiving a transplant...
Cheers,
Scott
The Triton 2.4 is a member of the Sirius range of engines - officially, a 4G64, 2350cc. The Lancer and the (Aussie) Starion (remember the Starion?) both run variants of the 4G63, 1997cc. The largest difference between the two is the stroke - the 2.4 has a 100.0mm stroke, larger than the 2.6 (98.0mm.) Long stroke designs are good for producing torque - which is good for 4wding. Standard compression ratio is 9.5:1.
Crankshaft main journals are the same on both Sirius motors, but the 4G64 has larger diameter conrod journals - should be stronger.
Then I found the good bit: this web site in the US claims the manifold bolt patterns are the same on both motors, so the turbo system from the 4G63 should bolt straight on.
Is it just me, or does that sound like an appealing combination for a Gen1 Shorty? Swap out the Astron for a 2.4 Sirius, then bolt on a turbo - using essentially factory components? You'd want to keep the boost down if you've got the factory compression, but for short course work, or hill climbs?
I can see my Sigma receiving a transplant...
Cheers,
Scott
The 2.6 engines we had here in Australia were 8 valve designs, and they're getting old - Mitsubishi don't sell many parts for them any more. Turbocharging one would be a custom development (unless you bought one of the turbocharged import motors - then parts are still hard to come by.) The locally sold injected versions were east-west mounted, and converting the EFI system to suit a north-south configuration is fiddly.
The 2.4i engine is still current production, being sold in new cars. It has 16 valves and in standard form (in Oz spec) it produces 20kW more than the carby 2.6. The turbo system from the 2.0 version (supposedly) bolts straight on, so theoretically you could have a fuel injected 16v turbocharged 2.4 litre engine built from factory components which should be available through any Mitsubishi dealer in the country.
Cheers,
Scott
The 2.4i engine is still current production, being sold in new cars. It has 16 valves and in standard form (in Oz spec) it produces 20kW more than the carby 2.6. The turbo system from the 2.0 version (supposedly) bolts straight on, so theoretically you could have a fuel injected 16v turbocharged 2.4 litre engine built from factory components which should be available through any Mitsubishi dealer in the country.
Cheers,
Scott
5g64 is a 2.6 astron
4g63 is a 2.0l DOHC both with and without a turbo
4g64 is a 2.4 SOHC
Why not fit the DOHC head as well as the manifold
check out http://www.carotica.com/4g64/
need and EFI computer check out msefi.com
I am thinking this option for my 89 Triton 4x4 Ute
There are other sites on the head swap just type 4g63 heads on 4g64 into google or the like
Cheers
Wayne
4g63 is a 2.0l DOHC both with and without a turbo
4g64 is a 2.4 SOHC
Why not fit the DOHC head as well as the manifold
check out http://www.carotica.com/4g64/
need and EFI computer check out msefi.com
I am thinking this option for my 89 Triton 4x4 Ute
There are other sites on the head swap just type 4g63 heads on 4g64 into google or the like
Cheers
Wayne
barnsey wrote:Has anyone done a fuel injected motor swap to old Pajero's on this forum.
I'd like to know if a mechanically challenged person like myself could do this, (time, space, tools) or whether getting it done professionally would be cost effective.
People have added Magna fuel injection to 2.6 Pajeros, but I don't know if anyone in Oz has done the Triton motor swap.
If you have time, patience and access to a fabricator for the little bits which need rework you could probably do either job yourself.
I believe the Magna injection requires rework to the intake manifold and the distributor, because it's an east-west design being used north-south.
The Triton engine swap will probably need a rework of the engine mounts, probably gearbox mounts if you can't keep the existing box, and custom exhaust work.
Either way will require a surge tank to prevent fuel starvation during cornering/climbing.
Personally, I reckon the Triton swap would produce a better result, and the finished result should be more familiar to your average Mitsubishi dealership. If you want to move to Brisbane I'll give you a hand.
Cheers,
Scott
Hey all,
Have done the Magna injection into Paj 2.6. Intake manifold needs some fabrication, (throttle body is on the wrong end). Distributor only needs Bracketing. We custom designed the fuel system. Wiring designed using the harness off the Magna.
Quite a lot of muckin around to do it. It was worth it, But I wouldn't do it again. Cost me around AU$1200 all up, including labour costs for my Auto Sparky. Should come in at a bit less if you're on the mainland, and if well prepared. (Also cost me a few cartons!!)
Hope someone finds this useful.
Matt
Have done the Magna injection into Paj 2.6. Intake manifold needs some fabrication, (throttle body is on the wrong end). Distributor only needs Bracketing. We custom designed the fuel system. Wiring designed using the harness off the Magna.
Quite a lot of muckin around to do it. It was worth it, But I wouldn't do it again. Cost me around AU$1200 all up, including labour costs for my Auto Sparky. Should come in at a bit less if you're on the mainland, and if well prepared. (Also cost me a few cartons!!)
Hope someone finds this useful.
Matt
85 Shorty Paj. 'Bout Stuffed. Lots O' Gear.
Need a new One.
P.S. When all else fails.........
FULL THROTTLE!!!!!!
Need a new One.
P.S. When all else fails.........
FULL THROTTLE!!!!!!
The Triton engine is a 4G64, vs 4G54 for the Paj/Sigma. If you're feeling rich, apparently the 4G94 is similar, with variable valve timing...
No argument that a diesel would tow better, but I'd want to go to the 2.8td, which means you should replace the entire drive train too (gearbox, transfer, rear diff are all larger on the 2.8td.) Then it'll be an easier task to swap in a 3.2 DiD in a few years time.
On paper, the 2.4i produces basically the same torque as the 2.6, with more power. If it helps, consider that your 2.6 is getting on a bit, so its unlikely to be performing to published specs. Swapping in a newer 2.4i should give you an increase in both power and torque compared to the 2.6 you have now. So it should tow better and use less fuel, even if it's not a diesel.
You make a good point at the end of your post - your NA is worth more to you than it is to anybody else. Either lose money now by off-loading it, or use it for a few years and trust that you're in a better position to take the loss later.
See - you're not the only one who can ramble.
Scott
No argument that a diesel would tow better, but I'd want to go to the 2.8td, which means you should replace the entire drive train too (gearbox, transfer, rear diff are all larger on the 2.8td.) Then it'll be an easier task to swap in a 3.2 DiD in a few years time.
On paper, the 2.4i produces basically the same torque as the 2.6, with more power. If it helps, consider that your 2.6 is getting on a bit, so its unlikely to be performing to published specs. Swapping in a newer 2.4i should give you an increase in both power and torque compared to the 2.6 you have now. So it should tow better and use less fuel, even if it's not a diesel.
You make a good point at the end of your post - your NA is worth more to you than it is to anybody else. Either lose money now by off-loading it, or use it for a few years and trust that you're in a better position to take the loss later.
See - you're not the only one who can ramble.
Scott
When you say it was well worth it... wat gains did u get to justify $1200??? Origional motor with that spent on it and still a carby would out perform and stock efi motor.
1. I didn't know at the outset that it was gunna be $1200, That's just how it panned out, and once started there was no going back.
2. I think one of the biggest gains I got was stabilty and consistency, especially with fuel flow. Slightly better economy, with quite a power gain. And a lot more reliable and water proof off road. Better acceleration, better for towing.........
Basically, far better overall performance.
Matt
85 Shorty Paj. 'Bout Stuffed. Lots O' Gear.
Need a new One.
P.S. When all else fails.........
FULL THROTTLE!!!!!!
Need a new One.
P.S. When all else fails.........
FULL THROTTLE!!!!!!
If your just after fuel injection look into this
1. Induction
EA Falcons have throttle body injection which is basically a carby with a fuel injector instead of a jet
Theses supposedly flow up to 500 cmf which is more than enough for an under 3l engine
A simple adaptor will make it pretty well bolt on.
2. Sensors
There are four sensors needeed
You will need to weld bosses into the manifold for IAT (Inlet Air temp) and MAP (Manifold pressure) sensors and similarly for coolant temp. Suitable holes may already be available
The TPS (Throttole position Sensor) in already mounted on the throttle body as is the ICV (idle control valve)
3. Computer\Electronics
Megasquirt makes a fuel injection computer kit
If you can use a solder iron and follow instructions it is easy to build
The beauty of this computer is it's what’s called open source code. This means you can modify the program, not just adjust parameters as with others, to suit your needs. Some people have modifications for turbo boost controls and torque converter lock ups for example
There is a great forum for user help (link below)
Don't be put off by the technical side of it. Follow instructions and use the forum if you get stuck
Tuning is a matter of fun, WOT testing
WOT is wide open throttle.
Go for a hard drive come back plug the laptop in and view the MAP -v- RPM table. If the figure is low for one cell add a little fuel and vice versa
The instruction notes are quite comprehensive and make tuning less daunting than it sounds
I picked up three throttle bodies with three sets of sensors and a complete ea wiring loom for $100 from the wreckers
So for under $500 the 5g64 in the '89 Triton will soon be fuel injected
Better economy and cold weather starting with a likely small performance gain
Later on I will look at piecing together a 4g64 with 4g54 heads and a Toyota supercharger using this computer with the added spark control option. The engine will probably cost around 5k if I do allot of the work and be a real torque monster with the supercharger
I will keep you all posted of my slow progress
Links:
Megasquirt - http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
Forum- http://www.msefi.com
Completed projects
Falcon Throttle bodies -
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~davodos/Megasquirt.html
Mitsubishi-
http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=7969
http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=737
Others-
http://www.msefi.com/viewforum.php?f=63
Cheers
Wayne
1. Induction
EA Falcons have throttle body injection which is basically a carby with a fuel injector instead of a jet
Theses supposedly flow up to 500 cmf which is more than enough for an under 3l engine
A simple adaptor will make it pretty well bolt on.
2. Sensors
There are four sensors needeed
You will need to weld bosses into the manifold for IAT (Inlet Air temp) and MAP (Manifold pressure) sensors and similarly for coolant temp. Suitable holes may already be available
The TPS (Throttole position Sensor) in already mounted on the throttle body as is the ICV (idle control valve)
3. Computer\Electronics
Megasquirt makes a fuel injection computer kit
If you can use a solder iron and follow instructions it is easy to build
The beauty of this computer is it's what’s called open source code. This means you can modify the program, not just adjust parameters as with others, to suit your needs. Some people have modifications for turbo boost controls and torque converter lock ups for example
There is a great forum for user help (link below)
Don't be put off by the technical side of it. Follow instructions and use the forum if you get stuck
Tuning is a matter of fun, WOT testing
WOT is wide open throttle.
Go for a hard drive come back plug the laptop in and view the MAP -v- RPM table. If the figure is low for one cell add a little fuel and vice versa
The instruction notes are quite comprehensive and make tuning less daunting than it sounds
I picked up three throttle bodies with three sets of sensors and a complete ea wiring loom for $100 from the wreckers
So for under $500 the 5g64 in the '89 Triton will soon be fuel injected
Better economy and cold weather starting with a likely small performance gain
Later on I will look at piecing together a 4g64 with 4g54 heads and a Toyota supercharger using this computer with the added spark control option. The engine will probably cost around 5k if I do allot of the work and be a real torque monster with the supercharger
I will keep you all posted of my slow progress
Links:
Megasquirt - http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
Forum- http://www.msefi.com
Completed projects
Falcon Throttle bodies -
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~davodos/Megasquirt.html
Mitsubishi-
http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=7969
http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=737
Others-
http://www.msefi.com/viewforum.php?f=63
Cheers
Wayne
My feeling is if you have a good/strong 2.6 the EFI conversion is the go.
If your 2.6 is shot then the 2.4 conversion is attractive.
I know a guy who did the EFI conversion into his swb, he found a 2.6 complete with all the EFI, wiring harness & ECU from a TR Smegma that had only done 20,000K's since a rebuild before it was T boned. He only paid a grand or so for the lot.
He had to pilfer some parts off his old 2.6 but it was largely a bolt in affair with a bit of help from an auto eleccy. He put extractors and a sports system when he did the conversion as well as a custom snorkel. I remember he used a remote electric fuel pump from a VL Crudodore I think.
The car went a lot better than before with better economy, cold weather starting and general smoothness/driveability. It was also a lot better offroad (no coughing or farting on hills and side slopes).
In his scenario the conversion was worth it.
If your 2.6 is shot then the 2.4 conversion is attractive.
I know a guy who did the EFI conversion into his swb, he found a 2.6 complete with all the EFI, wiring harness & ECU from a TR Smegma that had only done 20,000K's since a rebuild before it was T boned. He only paid a grand or so for the lot.
He had to pilfer some parts off his old 2.6 but it was largely a bolt in affair with a bit of help from an auto eleccy. He put extractors and a sports system when he did the conversion as well as a custom snorkel. I remember he used a remote electric fuel pump from a VL Crudodore I think.
The car went a lot better than before with better economy, cold weather starting and general smoothness/driveability. It was also a lot better offroad (no coughing or farting on hills and side slopes).
In his scenario the conversion was worth it.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
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