Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Snapped hitensile bolt
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Snapped hitensile bolt
Tried the search and only came up with one page that was useful enough + don't have the time to go through the remaining 20 odd pages.... but thought I'd try again...
Just dropping the tank outta my rig and snapped both the bolts to the hinged straps that hold the tank in place.
One is about 5mm protruding and the other is in the hole by a couple of mm.
Now, EZ outs seem the go but I have a feeling that these are going to snap off as the bolts were tight as And there was no way to get any lub in behind to loosen it either. I don't mind if I have to screw the remaining bit of bolt through and leave it loose on the other side of the mount(no way of getting to the back of it as the mount is welded to the body)
I don't have a welder to weld another bolt to it.... or an oxy to heat it. what are my other options here??? Would drilling it and re tapping it be the go???
I need this fixed asap to get the old girl back on the road.
Cheers,
Brighty.
Just dropping the tank outta my rig and snapped both the bolts to the hinged straps that hold the tank in place.
One is about 5mm protruding and the other is in the hole by a couple of mm.
Now, EZ outs seem the go but I have a feeling that these are going to snap off as the bolts were tight as And there was no way to get any lub in behind to loosen it either. I don't mind if I have to screw the remaining bit of bolt through and leave it loose on the other side of the mount(no way of getting to the back of it as the mount is welded to the body)
I don't have a welder to weld another bolt to it.... or an oxy to heat it. what are my other options here??? Would drilling it and re tapping it be the go???
I need this fixed asap to get the old girl back on the road.
Cheers,
Brighty.
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
What I'd try:
1. VERY CAREFULLY centre-punch the centre of the snapped bolt. Hit it hard, as many times as you like - it might help loosen things.
2. Drill a pilot hole (1/8" or thereabouts - whatever's sharpest, but smaller than the ezy-out needs) all the way through the middle of the bolt. Make this hole as close to the centre as possible.
3. Squirt some stuff (WD40/Inox/RP7 etc) up through the middle of the bolt - some of this should settle around the thread and start to penetrate.
4. Go and have a drink (or two. )
5. Some time later, drill the hole to whatever size the ezy-out needs - get more heat into the bolt.
6. Try the ezy-out.
7. If the ezy-out doesn't work, smack the cr@p out of the bolt again - work out some frustration.
8. Drill and tap for a new bolt (or Helicoil... )
Good luck,
Scott
1. VERY CAREFULLY centre-punch the centre of the snapped bolt. Hit it hard, as many times as you like - it might help loosen things.
2. Drill a pilot hole (1/8" or thereabouts - whatever's sharpest, but smaller than the ezy-out needs) all the way through the middle of the bolt. Make this hole as close to the centre as possible.
3. Squirt some stuff (WD40/Inox/RP7 etc) up through the middle of the bolt - some of this should settle around the thread and start to penetrate.
4. Go and have a drink (or two. )
5. Some time later, drill the hole to whatever size the ezy-out needs - get more heat into the bolt.
6. Try the ezy-out.
7. If the ezy-out doesn't work, smack the cr@p out of the bolt again - work out some frustration.
8. Drill and tap for a new bolt (or Helicoil... )
Good luck,
Scott
My experience is dont bother with any ezyout, especially if it is a high tensile bolt. See if you can get a LH drill bit or alternatively redrill and tap.
There is only one thing worse than a broken bolt and that is a broken ezyout inside the broken bolt!!!
There is only one thing worse than a broken bolt and that is a broken ezyout inside the broken bolt!!!
Range Rover - 4.4 V8, MD Crawler Box, F&R Lockers, 35" Centipedes, 4" lift. Overqualified WebWheeler!!!
Discovery - Bling touring stuff!
Discovery - Bling touring stuff!
God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
Contact:
LH drill bits cut in reverse rotation to normal bits. So to drill in, it spins counter-clockwise. This means that as it cuts into the bolt, it is also trying to "undo" the bolt as well. Can loosen the broken section of the bolt aiding removal.
Layto....
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
For his aplication I dont think left or right would matter as the tank strap bolt will just screw right through the bracket and out the outher side.
and after you drill the 1/8th hole with the sharp drill and spray and have a drink (or 2) redrill with a bluntish bit (it generates more heat), the longer you let the Inox (or similar) work the easier it will be.
With the one that is protruding 5mm give him a good wack with the centre punch and a shot of Inox, then try a sharp set of vice grips but don't try and screw it out in one great crank of the vice grips, jiggle it back and forth a few degree's at a time and you may be lucky.
Peter.
and after you drill the 1/8th hole with the sharp drill and spray and have a drink (or 2) redrill with a bluntish bit (it generates more heat), the longer you let the Inox (or similar) work the easier it will be.
With the one that is protruding 5mm give him a good wack with the centre punch and a shot of Inox, then try a sharp set of vice grips but don't try and screw it out in one great crank of the vice grips, jiggle it back and forth a few degree's at a time and you may be lucky.
Peter.
spray some penatrene on it, smake the fuck out of it with a pin punch, in the centre.
then use ya vice grips to remove it, like pete said.
with the other one, if u can get a centre punch in to it on an angle,
-hit the centre of it first, with a pin punch, soak with penatrene and hit again,
let it soak, now get the centre punch hit abit off centreto make a dent,
then angle it so you are pushin it around with each hit.
then use ya vice grips to remove it, like pete said.
with the other one, if u can get a centre punch in to it on an angle,
-hit the centre of it first, with a pin punch, soak with penatrene and hit again,
let it soak, now get the centre punch hit abit off centreto make a dent,
then angle it so you are pushin it around with each hit.
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=47136]THE SUSLUX[/url]
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=50913]THE EXTRACAB[/url]
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=50913]THE EXTRACAB[/url]
Well, well, well..... I had a go at it yesterday!!!!! and all I can say is...
Nothing was going to get rid of 20yrs worth of rust in there!!!!
Drilled 1/8 hole and let soak in Inox for bout 5hrs, occasionally spraying with more whilst having a beer, maybe 2 !!! Then had to drill it out a bit bigger to allow the EZ out to bite into it.... (in actual fact the EZ out split the side of the bolt itself).... so I 'tapped' the end of the EZ out with lump hammer a few times.... nothing... then so I hit it a bit harder and broke the tack welds holding the nut on the other side of the C channel(totally farked now!!! ) and it popped thru to the other side.... which is inaccesssible... with the EZ out still attatched!!!! LOTS OF SWEARING AND CURSING GOING ON THEN!!!!!
The only way I could see to rectify the prob was to cut a small 1 inch square piece out of the side of the C channel with a small die grinder like tool with mini cutting disc in it to allow access to the back of it. This shouldn't affect the structural integrity of it as there is still plenty of support either side of the hole.
what I intend to do now is get another hitensile bolt of equal size and put it thru from the back of the C channel and weld it in place. Now the nut will be the removable part from the outside... much better idea I think, why they didn't make it like that in the first place I don't know.
So instead of trying to get the other side out... I took all my frustration out on it with the lump hammer, felt bloody good too when those tack welds popped off!!!!
If I had a digital camera... and a decent PC, I'd post some pics to explain it a bit better... but unfortunately... I'm saving for my holiday to Brazil in 5 weeks time
Thanks for all the ideas and input guys.... much appreciated!!!!!
cheers,
Brighty.
Nothing was going to get rid of 20yrs worth of rust in there!!!!
Drilled 1/8 hole and let soak in Inox for bout 5hrs, occasionally spraying with more whilst having a beer, maybe 2 !!! Then had to drill it out a bit bigger to allow the EZ out to bite into it.... (in actual fact the EZ out split the side of the bolt itself).... so I 'tapped' the end of the EZ out with lump hammer a few times.... nothing... then so I hit it a bit harder and broke the tack welds holding the nut on the other side of the C channel(totally farked now!!! ) and it popped thru to the other side.... which is inaccesssible... with the EZ out still attatched!!!! LOTS OF SWEARING AND CURSING GOING ON THEN!!!!!
The only way I could see to rectify the prob was to cut a small 1 inch square piece out of the side of the C channel with a small die grinder like tool with mini cutting disc in it to allow access to the back of it. This shouldn't affect the structural integrity of it as there is still plenty of support either side of the hole.
what I intend to do now is get another hitensile bolt of equal size and put it thru from the back of the C channel and weld it in place. Now the nut will be the removable part from the outside... much better idea I think, why they didn't make it like that in the first place I don't know.
So instead of trying to get the other side out... I took all my frustration out on it with the lump hammer, felt bloody good too when those tack welds popped off!!!!
If I had a digital camera... and a decent PC, I'd post some pics to explain it a bit better... but unfortunately... I'm saving for my holiday to Brazil in 5 weeks time
Thanks for all the ideas and input guys.... much appreciated!!!!!
cheers,
Brighty.
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
bolt
brighty dont forget those CONTACTS there is a product they use in the panel beating industry that is like a nut they push thru the panel and fix it there buy compression like a pop rivit could give the local paint monkeys a ring and see what they say.
Lockers or Knockers ,both will make for fun.
HYBRID 4B PRDUCTS Visit Tigerz11 here http://www.tigerz11.com.au/ and LOCKTUP 4x4 here http://www.locktup4x4.com.au/ cheers
www.trailtrack4x4.com
HYBRID 4B PRDUCTS Visit Tigerz11 here http://www.tigerz11.com.au/ and LOCKTUP 4x4 here http://www.locktup4x4.com.au/ cheers
www.trailtrack4x4.com
Re: bolt
gtwebbie wrote:brighty dont forget those CONTACTS there is a product they use in the panel beating industry that is like a nut they push thru the panel and fix it there buy compression like a pop rivit could give the local paint monkeys a ring and see what they say.
Yeah thanks webbie... I might even try to pick some up for you if you're lucky..... or maybe NOT!!!
Problem solved.... As I don't have a welder and don't know of anyone that does around me atm.... got a bloke coming out on Mon to do it for me.. should take all of about 2 mins...
When in doubt..... UTE-ERIZE it!!!
Here is a pic of 2 LH drills.HEY CHARGER wrote:Can someone explain to me what a left handed drill bit is , and what it would do to aid the removal of a broken bolt ??
Is a left handed drill bit like a left handed screwdriver
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
John
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 156 guests