Idle and pitman arm on Feroza???

[BenDover]

Hi Folks,

Well I got my Feroza checked out for a suspension lift on the weekend and the guy said that my idle and pitman arm is stuffed. That is why there is some play in the left front wheel and the tyre is wearing unevenly and sometimes when going over the curb there is a clunk noise.

He quoted me $300 to do both including wheel alignment. Does this sound correct? If it is I will book it in but I wanted to check on here first to make sure the diagnosis is correct and that he isn't ripping me off.

Any thoughts?

Cheers
Ben

[Croz]

Thats extremely cheap, from memory my idler arm was $240 approx, and the pitman not much less.

Check he is definitely using new components and that he is doing both, but I do expect that he will change his quote when he looks again.

[jamesbeam]

I did the idler arm on my feroza a couple of weeks ago. From Q Ford, Springwood. It cost me $211. Fitted it myself. Not hard with the right tools. I haven't done the pitman arm though.

[Croz]

I did the Idler, tie rods and ball joints on my car, but had to take it into Jax to get the pitman off, I broke my puller on it and they did as well, but they had the advantage of an oxy to assist when they got a new puller.

[BenDover]

So excuse my ignorance but these are 2 different arms? DOes it sound right that he should be having to replace both? Do the symptoms match the solution?

Sorry but to be honest I haven't ever heard of either of these before so am unsure as to what purpose they serve.

Cheers
Ben

[Croz]

The pitman comes off the steering box on the drivers side of the steering and transfers the motion to the steering linkages to turn the wheels.

The idler is on the passenger side and has the passive role of simply pivoting with the linkages as they move, supporting the steering arms on that side.

It is not uncommon apparently that they both go at the same time, but most likely they went differently but have been found worn at the same time. They do cause uneven tyre wear and a pull to the left as they arent holding the wheels in the correct position as the car goes along. Also, if the car is easier to turn to the left than the right it indicates that the idler is worn.

[BenDover]

Thanks heaps for all of that. That is exactly what I am getting!

Well I have rung them back to book it in for tomorrow and confirmed that they are doing both of them and using new parts. So judging from the prices some of you have had to pay I would recommend these guys to you. Of course I will let you know on the quality of the job done. They are All About Steering And Suspension on Moss St in Slacks Creek.

Cheers
Ben

[jamesbeam]

To get the Idler arm off use a ball joint remover not a pully. That is what I had done wrong.

[BenDover]

Well the arms have both been done and it is no longer pulling to the left or anything so that is good.

There is still one problem though. Whenever I back down our driveway and go down the curb without slowing right down to a crawl, as the front goes down the curb there is a clunking noise coming from the left hand front. I thought that maybe this was related to the idle and pitman arms but it is still doing it.

Any ideas as to what this might be???

Cheers
Ben

[HeathGQ]

Whenever I back down our driveway and go down the curb without slowing right down to a crawl, as the front goes down the curb there is a clunking noise coming from the left hand front. I thought that maybe this was related to the idle and pitman arms but it is still doing it.

Any ideas as to what this might be???

Cheers
Ben

High pitched, 'squeek' - its the metal steering stops. Grease em up and it goes away for a while, so you have to do it regularly. Anyone got pics of this??

[BenDover]

I wouldn't say it's a squeek at all...it sounds more like something is hitting something...more of a light metalic 'clunk'... I will check out your suggestion though Heath if someone can provide me with pics?

[rowdy24]

I am getting the same problem wheneven I have full lock and the front suspension moves over a curb or large bump. It sounds horrible, a bit like metal against metal. I think it might be the tierod joints but I ain't sure until I unload everything to test them out. Anyway my whole front suspension is buggered.

[BenDover]

Yep that's what I'm getting. When are you going to check it out?

[murcod]

Mine does the same thing- it's common to every Feroza. As already mentioned the steering bump stops are metal on metal, and when the suspension compresses on full lock it makes a horrific noise. Learn to live with it- don't use full lock over large bumps unless you have too.

[HeathGQ]

trust us guys... its simple, and is not a problem. Just grease em up regularly.



Hey Dave, you've been quiet lately, been away???

[murcod]

Hi Heath, not away- just busy. Have managed to sell my other vehicle, which means I'll be keeping the Feroza!!! Am in the process of organising everything as it's going on a one way trip to Queensland.

Also can't access OL from work anymore..... not that I'd do that sort of thing!!!

[rowdy24]

I guess the reason why I though it was something more was because it sounded so bad, but its just the steering bump stops. Yet another thing to add to the list of things to grease for the front suspension.

Just one question, when you wiggle the drive shaft cv's, should they rattle around at the wheel ends?

[tufferoza]

Just one question, when you wiggle the drive shaft cv's, should they rattle around at the wheel ends?

i found this wierd when i bought mine too. my Mr2 has the drive shafts held tight into the hub with a tightened nut, whereas the feroza just has a circlip on the end of the drive shaft that stops it from coming out of the hub spline and there is a little 'slop' there.

[HeathGQ]

there really should only be a small amount of play - Lateral movement left to right (vice versa), maybe a millimetre (hard to describe 'a small amount). If you have more, you may want to investigation the hubs.