Materials for Body Lift? Where?

Post by **smitty** » Sun May 29, 2005 9:24 pm

Gâ€™day. I was wondering what are the best places for getting materials for body lifts in brissy area.

Post by **unwritten** » Sun May 29, 2005 9:31 pm

On the topic, are the red poly rollers for a boat trailer the same material as what you could use for the lift? Find out that and you could probably use them and just cut them to length... any boating store

Post by **smitty** » Sun May 29, 2005 9:42 pm

They have to be steel in qld but :(.

Post by **unwritten** » Sun May 29, 2005 9:45 pm

My mate just machined his up at work (metal)... try any engineering metal shop down there they usually have offcuts they could machine up for you.

Post by **mickyd555** » Sun May 29, 2005 9:51 pm

i thought i read somwhere on here that ARB do block sets for under $50..... probably cheaper and easier than fartarseing around to get them made.......

Post by **unwritten** » Sun May 29, 2005 9:53 pm

AGREED...

wouldn't be cheaper... but ALOT less hassle

Post by **stewie81** » Mon May 30, 2005 12:07 am

mate I did a body lift on my MQ when I had it I used Alloy blocks...

I got it from SMART ALLUMINUM at Moorooka.. It cost $46.50 for 10x 2in blocks.. Then to engeneering joint down at compton rd drilled holes for $4ea. so $40 total...

Then the bolts I got from bolts and industrial, In Salisbury..

All 3 places great to deal with and reccomend them... I can get name of engeneering joint if need be...

All up cost me $142... that was for a LWB MQ 10 blocks

Post by **De-lux** » Mon May 30, 2005 2:25 am

they don't have to be steel. check out this thread. mine has been apporved with poly ethalene.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=36585

ooh yeah... search biatch

Post by **De-lux** » Mon May 30, 2005 2:31 am

i bought 1200mm X 60mm of tubed poly from Dotmar (the dudes in the link above) for $30, which you can just cut to any size you want. i went for a 50mm lift on my lux, and the length i bought was more than enough. take it home, use a bandsaw if you have access to one to cut the blocks to size, and then a drill press to drill the holes in the blocks. its easy as piss, i did it, and i'm a chumpy web wheeler.

I then got the high tensile bolts for about $10 from another place.

good luck cheif

Post by **unwritten** » Mon May 30, 2005 9:26 am

That would be like the boat rollers I mentioned... they have a 16mm bolt hole so you can upgrade for more strength,.

Post by **-Scott-** » Mon May 30, 2005 10:25 am

"Poly" means next to nothing. Is it Polyethylene? Polypropylene? Polystyrene? Polyurethane? Polyvinylchloride? Polywannacracka?

What diameter are these boat rollers? The smaller the diameter the smaller the area, so you're concentrating the forces over a smaller area of the floorpan - which leads to cracking. Having a larger hole down the middle reduces the area further. A single M8 high tensile bolt will hold the weight of your 4by - M10 and M12 are stronger again. Once you have 8/10/12 of these bolts holding body to chassis strength isn't much of an issue. I don't see any point in going to larger diameter bolts just to fill the hole in a "cheap" block.

Buying decent blocks isn't expensive. Don't be a cheapskate - it's only asking for trouble.

Scott

Post by **unwritten** » Mon May 30, 2005 10:36 am

I was just curious about them... I have metal lift blocks on mine with the mounting points on the body reinforced

Post by **BundyRumandCoke** » Mon May 30, 2005 1:20 pm

I have used the RED poly boat rollers, 5 x 4 inch, cut in half. Cost $11 each. After 3 years they are still perfect. Use the wider section against the body panel to spread the weight further, and the narrow section against the original body rubber. They come predrilled and will accept the crush tube from your original mounts perfectly.

These pics show the blocks upside down, but I cant be bothered changing them. They are still ok this way.

Post by **De-lux** » Mon May 30, 2005 2:08 pm

personally i wouldn't use boat rollers... that seems dodgy as fark.

golden rule i was told when lifting mine --> make sure the lift blocks are wider than they are tall and surface area compression shouldn't be too much of a problem. my blocks are like hockey pucks. 50mm (height) X 60mm (width)

Post by **unwritten** » Mon May 30, 2005 2:18 pm

Well there's a suggestion... drill a hole through a hockey puck...

Post by **Tiny** » Mon May 30, 2005 2:33 pm

unwritten wrote:Well there's a suggestion... drill a hole through a hockey puck...

how about get the right stuff first time and do the job right to avoid death or injury to you or someone else over a few$$$. Bettr to save up and do it correctly than end up wiht the bill from an acco after insurence mob finds out you used BOAT ROLLERS

as a bodylift

Post by **unwritten** » Mon May 30, 2005 2:41 pm

How bout a candle? they would be easier to cut to length...

Post by **Tiny** » Mon May 30, 2005 2:51 pm

unwritten wrote:How bout a candle? they would be easier to cut to length...

just mould them to the correct size with oles and everything

Post by **unwritten** » Mon May 30, 2005 3:02 pm

Well... since we're on the topic of moulded lift blocks: The NEW playdough moulded lift blocks now come in a variety of colours to match your duco... retailing for $9.80 for a 1kg bucket.

Post by **Tiny** » Mon May 30, 2005 3:08 pm

unwritten wrote:Well... since we're on the topic of moulded lift blocks: The NEW playdough moulded lift blocks now come in a variety of colours to match your duco... retailing for $9.80 for a 1kg bucket.

plaster of paris

Post by **Utemad** » Mon May 30, 2005 6:49 pm

stewie81 wrote:I got it from SMART ALLUMINUM at Moorooka.. It cost $46.50 for 10x 2in blocks.. Then to engeneering joint down at compton rd drilled holes for $4ea. so $40 total...
Then the bolts I got from bolts and industrial, In Salisbury..

I also used these guys. I paid $44 for 14 40mm tall x 60mm diameter blocks. I gave them to a friend to drill the holes. Although he hasn't given them back yet.
I haven't bought the bolts yet but have used the bolt shop above a few times and can recommend them also.

I got my go ahead approval over the phone the day after I posted the letter. Then the actual letter came 1 week later.

Post by **turbodave** » Mon May 30, 2005 8:24 pm

I got my go ahead approval over the phone the day after I posted the letter. Then the actual letter came 1 week later.

Utemad, what do u mean? Are u talking about Qld Transport?

After seeing these prices, seems like a lot better idea than paying $260 for a "kit".

Post by **plowy** » Mon May 30, 2005 8:28 pm

TJM sell the lift block kits the best i have seen was skate board wheels

and the greatest was a 8'' bodylift using tube pipeing cause it was cheaper than a suspension lift on a sr5 hilux,it had a v6 commy motor wich you would of had to do the spark plugs threw the gap inbetween the gaurd n tyre

all the p plater could say about the safety factor was it hasn't failed yet and its all good ive got third party insurance

Post by **bogged** » Mon May 30, 2005 8:36 pm

NJ SWB wrote:"Poly" means next to nothing. Is it Polyethylene? Polypropylene? Polystyrene? Polyurethane? Polyvinylchloride? Polywannacracka?

If Im not mistaken, it would be SAO grade Polywannacracka

Post by **-Scott-** » Mon May 30, 2005 9:45 pm

bogged wrote:
NJ SWB wrote:"Poly" means next to nothing. Is it Polyethylene? Polypropylene? Polystyrene? Polyurethane? Polyvinylchloride? Polywannacracka?
If Im not mistaken, it would be SAO grade Polywannacracka

Isn't that made by a foreign owned company? Can't we at least use Australian Made?

Post by **Utemad** » Mon May 30, 2005 10:12 pm

turbodave wrote:
I got my go ahead approval over the phone the day after I posted the letter. Then the actual letter came 1 week later.
Utemad, what do u mean? Are u talking about Qld Transport?

After seeing these prices, seems like a lot better idea than paying $260 for a "kit".

Yeah the Qld Transport approval letter. I sent the application letter and the next day I got a phone call to confirm the modification and she was surprised to hear that I had sought approval before I had done the body lift.

Post by **Utemad** » Mon May 30, 2005 10:15 pm

Tidy42 wrote:TJM sell the lift block kits

Yeah they do. $24/block for a 60x50mm alloy block with a 12mm hole. I decided to go elsewhere.

Post by **Meldge** » Mon May 30, 2005 11:17 pm

De-lux wrote: I then got the high tensile bolts for about $10 from another place.

good luck cheif

Were your bolts UNF - Fine Thread?

De-lux wrote:personally i wouldn't use boat rollers... that seems dodgy as fark.
my blocks are like hockey pucks. 50mm (height) X 60mm (width)

What are boat rollers made of, they do seem to be durable as heel... Just the minimal width is probably an issue.

I bought a metre of UHDPE - Ultra High Density Poly-Ethylene...
50mm lift, blocks are 75mm round, with a chamfer on the front ones to fit in the inner guard cup...

I think you are the 2nd person i know that have sent in the letter...

Post by **Cruzer!** » Tue May 31, 2005 6:56 am

I used haggertys metals in ipswich, $20 for 1m of 50mm OD steel bar.

Cut it up on a bandsaw, used the drill press at work, still got to put it in but

Post by **-Scott-** » Tue May 31, 2005 8:44 am

Cruzer! wrote:I used haggertys metals in ipswich, $20 for 1m of 50mm OD steel bar.

Cut it up on a bandsaw, used the drill press at work, still got to put it in but

I wouldn't. 50mm is too narrow, you'll concentrate the forces on the floor pan and it'll crack. My brother's 80 series cracked the floor at the front body mounts, and he doesn't have a body lift.

50mm diameter blocks is asking for trouble.

Scott

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Materials for Body Lift? Where?

Materials for Body Lift? Where?

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