fitting my tuff dog caster plates to my GQ... passenger side on no probs but how do i drill the holes in the drivers side? ive taken the wheel off but i still cant fit a drill in there to drill the holes for the front bolt to go through?? any ideas?
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fitting caster plates on GQ
fitting caster plates on GQ
Gday all... i got a small dilemma
fitting my tuff dog caster plates to my GQ... passenger side on no probs but how do i drill the holes in the drivers side? ive taken the wheel off but i still cant fit a drill in there to drill the holes for the front bolt to go through?? any ideas?
fitting my tuff dog caster plates to my GQ... passenger side on no probs but how do i drill the holes in the drivers side? ive taken the wheel off but i still cant fit a drill in there to drill the holes for the front bolt to go through?? any ideas?
THey aint cheap to buy... I looked into when doing mine. I just relented and got someone else to do it who had the tools.
Don't weld.. engineers don't like welding. A high tensile bolt is easier to pass off strength wise as some blokes welds.
Don't weld.. engineers don't like welding. A high tensile bolt is easier to pass off strength wise as some blokes welds.
[quote="MSCHIF"]SPUA its like shaving a barbie dolls head, amusing but pointless.[/quote]
with radius arms whern lifted the castor is upto shit, and pinion points upwards, the castor plates rotate the diff back to factory specs,
so the castor plates ave 3 holes, one for the original rear bolth, one for the radius arm bolt, and one, to mount the front of the plate to the diff,
a pic would explain this better, so i might do it later unless someone else beats me,
sorta hard to explain, ive done the best i can at the moment
so the castor plates ave 3 holes, one for the original rear bolth, one for the radius arm bolt, and one, to mount the front of the plate to the diff,
a pic would explain this better, so i might do it later unless someone else beats me,
sorta hard to explain, ive done the best i can at the moment
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Sorry, maybe I wasn't clear. I understand the concept of castor correction plates, how they work and why they are needed.ozy1 wrote:with radius arms whern lifted the castor is upto shit, and pinion points upwards, the castor plates rotate the diff back to factory specs,
so the castor plates ave 3 holes, one for the original rear bolth, one for the radius arm bolt, and one, to mount the front of the plate to the diff,
a pic would explain this better, so i might do it later unless someone else beats me,
sorta hard to explain, ive done the best i can at the moment
What I wasn't aware of was why the original diff mounts need to be drilled out? I always assumed you just used the same diameter bolt (just a little longer) to bolt the plates on. Thought it was a straight bolt-on, no-mod job.
KRiS
Photos would be good, just for interest sake.Ryan wrote:ill take some pics on weekend to explain it a bit better if ya want
next question... im using 5 degree plates... and have 4" coil lift... and its a shorty... is my front shaft gonna hit the X member? if it does how do i fix that...
Cheers.
KRiS
You will get the shaft touching the crossmember on full droop or when turning hard right at speed (if you have the hubs lockedd it can sound like a shagged out CV if the front shaft balancing tab is right over the crossmember).
I did a temporary fix by adding about 10mm of spacers (washers) between the crossmember and the chassis. The best solution is to notch the crossmember.
I did a temporary fix by adding about 10mm of spacers (washers) between the crossmember and the chassis. The best solution is to notch the crossmember.
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