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39" Iroks to rover
Moderator: Micka
39" Iroks to rover
Ok guys
How game do you think i have to be to put 39" iroks under my Rangie
anyone wanna buy my 37" Creepys or my 16x8 (4" backspacing) sunnies sprayed black.
Main Q is reguarding GU diffs.... (prob should put this in the nissan section) but have you guys ever looked at the GU option and how much shouls i expect to pay for both front and rear diff.
Edit: also (this should be put in Nissan section) can you fit 15" rim over GU discs or not
How game do you think i have to be to put 39" iroks under my Rangie
anyone wanna buy my 37" Creepys or my 16x8 (4" backspacing) sunnies sprayed black.
Main Q is reguarding GU diffs.... (prob should put this in the nissan section) but have you guys ever looked at the GU option and how much shouls i expect to pay for both front and rear diff.
Edit: also (this should be put in Nissan section) can you fit 15" rim over GU discs or not
herd similar in the nissan section and if i can get the for around $3000 than i will be very happy.turps wrote:GU fronts seem to gofor around $2700. Rears are less think I seen a set (FR and RR) on here advertised for $3400.
And yes you can get 15"rims to fit. But you need to look for a non 4.8 petrol though. As the 4.8 came with bigger brakes (they may fit but cant confirm).
next Question is the plumbing of the brake lines ? ? ?
and is the rover booster sufficient ? ? ?
If you have the cash and fab skills this sort of deal will need, why fawk around with GU diffs? What about Firetrucks d60's? Or better yet Mogs....
Why fawk around with GU stuff when for same or slightly more than the GU front price you could have a GQ front with airlocker, 30 spl cromo longs and hytuff axles?
(complete front diff $500, airlocker $1100, axles $600, longs ~$600 (if you can get them here without duty), toyo hubs $100, machining & misc bits $100 = $3000)
I see your also talking wizz bang suspension mods too in the Nissan thread.....
Return your Rangie to stock and use it as a tow rig for your BUGGY when its built. Its only a matter of time before your Rangie is put off the road anyway, imagine officer plods smile as he sizes up your 39" IROKs and takes out his 3" X 4" book and fawks your day right up....
Cheers
Daryl
Why fawk around with GU stuff when for same or slightly more than the GU front price you could have a GQ front with airlocker, 30 spl cromo longs and hytuff axles?
(complete front diff $500, airlocker $1100, axles $600, longs ~$600 (if you can get them here without duty), toyo hubs $100, machining & misc bits $100 = $3000)
I see your also talking wizz bang suspension mods too in the Nissan thread.....
Return your Rangie to stock and use it as a tow rig for your BUGGY when its built. Its only a matter of time before your Rangie is put off the road anyway, imagine officer plods smile as he sizes up your 39" IROKs and takes out his 3" X 4" book and fawks your day right up....
Cheers
Daryl
Last edited by derangedrover on Tue May 31, 2005 9:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
i wont be drivin round onroad with 39" iroks.derangedrover wrote:If you have the cash and fab skills this sort of deal will need, why fawk around with GU diffs? What about Firetrucks d60's? Or better yet Mogs....
Why fawk around with GU stuff when for same or slightly more than the GU front price you could have a GQ front with airlocker, 30 spl cromo longs and hytuff axles?
(complete front diff $500, airlocker $1100, axles $600, longs ~$600 (if you can get them here without duty), toyo hubs $100, machining & misc bits $100 = $3000)
I see your also talking wizz bang suspension mods too in the Nissan thread.....
Return your Rangie to stock and use it as a tow rig for your BUGGY when its built. Its only a matter of time before your Rangie is put off the road anyway, imagine officer plods smile as he sizes up your 39" IROKs and takes out his 3" X 4" book and fawks your day right up....
Cheers
Daryl
the sus[ension mods arnt wizz bang... more booty fab (beebee style)
i want to spend around $3000 for both front and rear axle.... actaully started considering 80series with custom nissan centre conversion up front...
Either way I wanna build stringer diffs as the rover CW&P wont stand up to the punishment from the 37s that i am currently running.
I also want the bigger better brakes and the wider diffs and the toyo/nissan stud pattern for easy access to wheel options
I have the 36" Bias on my Disco which sports a 3" suspension lift, a 2" body lift & flares...going to 42s soon with some other mods
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
I beleive your doin the toy centre conversion on your Disco (as much as i have read sofar) I personally dont think the 8" front CW&P will hold up well enough to the punishment (on 42" rubber).DiscoDino wrote:I have the 36" Bias on my Disco which sports a 3" suspension lift, a 2" body lift & flares...going to 42s soon with some other mods
If your serious about goin 42" and your located in the states I would go Portals no question about it (just wish it was as easy to do here in Aus)
If your serious about goin 42" and your located in the states I would go Portals no question about it (just wish it was as easy to do here in Aus)[/quote]
If it were easy Grimace, we would all be on portals and running 44" boggers
How I would love to go to Iceland and have the Fender pimped with portals and an 8" lift direct from the factory.
Micka
If it were easy Grimace, we would all be on portals and running 44" boggers
How I would love to go to Iceland and have the Fender pimped with portals and an 8" lift direct from the factory.
Micka
I'm located in Lebanon, Middle East - Portals are available, however, I like the non-portal set-up for a daily driver.
The front is a hi-pinion/reverse, so it should be as strong as the rear, even stronger as it under less load when climbing than the rear...
I'm aiming at <2T on the truck in weight with a healthy V8i (~225hp).
I think it should work
The front is a hi-pinion/reverse, so it should be as strong as the rear, even stronger as it under less load when climbing than the rear...
I'm aiming at <2T on the truck in weight with a healthy V8i (~225hp).
I think it should work
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
the toy centre wont handle the 42s but hey def giv it a go.. I too am aiming for light weight so we prob end up finishing in the same boatDiscoDino wrote:I'm located in Lebanon, Middle East - Portals are available, however, I like the non-portal set-up for a daily driver.
The front is a hi-pinion/reverse, so it should be as strong as the rear, even stronger as it under less load when climbing than the rear...
I'm aiming at <2T on the truck in weight with a healthy V8i (~225hp).
I think it should work
w00t w00t
And you know this from What experiance???AnthonyP wrote:the toy centre wont handle the 42s but hey def giv it a go.. I too am aiming for light weight so we prob end up finishing in the same boat
w00t w00t
Your Range rover is going to be no more capable with 39" IROKs and GU Diffs than it is now. Aza's Hilux with 33s and no lockers will be more capable than your rangie on 39s.
Re: diffs
i budgeting to hopefully recoup most of the cost by selling my rover gear and maxis etc etcmatta wrote:Anthony....geez mate...all this talk about diffs and dollars and you can't even buy yourself a new alternator??? Mate' ya win the lotto...
Matt
also my current tyres and wheels.
i tried to call you on the weekend to dude was gonna see if you wanted to go out for a play
I am goin 80series diffs front and rear
Why..... cause i can get both diffs for the right price Now the front 80series centre is known for its weakness but I am researching afew options there
Its gonna take me a while to sort out wat i wanna do suspension wise (linkages mounts etc etc) but ill get there one day
I just hope i am budgeting this all right my budgetin skills have never been a strong point
As soon as I get these maxi diffs sold along with my current my wheels and tyres ill get stuck right into it.
w00t w00t.... I think the POS Rangie is officially off the road
Why..... cause i can get both diffs for the right price Now the front 80series centre is known for its weakness but I am researching afew options there
Its gonna take me a while to sort out wat i wanna do suspension wise (linkages mounts etc etc) but ill get there one day
I just hope i am budgeting this all right my budgetin skills have never been a strong point
As soon as I get these maxi diffs sold along with my current my wheels and tyres ill get stuck right into it.
w00t w00t.... I think the POS Rangie is officially off the road
i luv you too TonyRUFF wrote:And you know this from What experiance???AnthonyP wrote:the toy centre wont handle the 42s but hey def giv it a go.. I too am aiming for light weight so we prob end up finishing in the same boat
w00t w00t
Your Range rover is going to be no more capable with 39" IROKs and GU Diffs than it is now. Aza's Hilux with 33s and no lockers will be more capable than your rangie on 39s.
its not about capability at the moment its about NOT HAVING ROVER DIFFS (and the 39" iroks are just a bonus)
Toy centre in front same as 80 series. just fit to rover housing, along with JM axles and Longs.
Going to need longs any way.
rear just run the toy in the ratio you want easy as all done.
If you going to do a complete diff swap then go the Nisan and ger larger R&P, front and rear.
using the toy stuff you only gain 50% rear only
do it right slack asssss
Michael.
Going to need longs any way.
rear just run the toy in the ratio you want easy as all done.
If you going to do a complete diff swap then go the Nisan and ger larger R&P, front and rear.
using the toy stuff you only gain 50% rear only
do it right slack asssss
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
but the toy stuff is full floating and the toy centres are cheaper and easier to cum by and there fronts are setup better for a full time 4wd application.HSV Rangie wrote:Toy centre in front same as 80 series. just fit to rover housing, along with JM axles and Longs.
Going to need longs any way.
rear just run the toy in the ratio you want easy as all done.
If you going to do a complete diff swap then go the Nisan and ger larger R&P, front and rear.
using the toy stuff you only gain 50% rear only
do it right slack asssss
Michael.
I get extra stance
I get better brakes
and I get normal 6 stud pattern for easy rim choices and availabilitie.
AT a later date i may do the nissan centre conversion to the front axle
BTW what is the WMS-WMS of a rangie diff ? ? ?
Anthony, i think you spend too much time reading the drivel on Pirate...
You can't even fix your alternator or get your rear diff lock to work and now you want to cram 39's under your POS when you have stuff all uptravel with 37's...
That is only 1" more clearance than what you have now under the diffs...
Are the 37's really stopping you from doing tracks that you want to do or do you really have that small a penis ???
You are also dreaming if you think you will recoup the cost of your maxi's etc... to offset the cost of the 80 series stuff... which as mentioned is the same diff as used in the Toy conversion... there is heaps more cost invloved than you think... and then you still wont have any lockers... never mind the 1 rear you have now..
I just dont understand .... your rangie will have no upwards flex with 39's and if you do fit them with more lift, will be very tippy cause the 80 stuff is not that much wider than Rangie stuff... the brakes are not that much better.. and the choice of wheels is not that much greater... stop fooling yourself and just get your POS running properly to start with..
I really dont believe that you will get any further up the track with 1" more diff clearance... have you seen how much lower an 80 series rear diff hangs compared to a Rangie
You can't even fix your alternator or get your rear diff lock to work and now you want to cram 39's under your POS when you have stuff all uptravel with 37's...
That is only 1" more clearance than what you have now under the diffs...
Are the 37's really stopping you from doing tracks that you want to do or do you really have that small a penis ???
You are also dreaming if you think you will recoup the cost of your maxi's etc... to offset the cost of the 80 series stuff... which as mentioned is the same diff as used in the Toy conversion... there is heaps more cost invloved than you think... and then you still wont have any lockers... never mind the 1 rear you have now..
I just dont understand .... your rangie will have no upwards flex with 39's and if you do fit them with more lift, will be very tippy cause the 80 stuff is not that much wider than Rangie stuff... the brakes are not that much better.. and the choice of wheels is not that much greater... stop fooling yourself and just get your POS running properly to start with..
I really dont believe that you will get any further up the track with 1" more diff clearance... have you seen how much lower an 80 series rear diff hangs compared to a Rangie
Shit Anthony, you must be made of money Either that or you have your 'priorities' screwed up once again. Good to have all this crap fitted to your POS but getting the bastard reliable is another thing So GET YOUR ALTERNATOR FIXED!!!
Your Maxi-Drive sell-off will leave you just a bit short judging by the prices that have been quoted re-GQ diffs, etc.. on this thread. As a rule it always costs more than you expect.
Not having a go but be realistic.
Regards,
Trav
Your Maxi-Drive sell-off will leave you just a bit short judging by the prices that have been quoted re-GQ diffs, etc.. on this thread. As a rule it always costs more than you expect.
Not having a go but be realistic.
Regards,
Trav
Land Rover- The Collingwood of 4WD's!!!!
Landy man - My RR has plenty of upwards flex as is and I will get more upward flex after removing the rear and modding my front wheel wells
yes my penis is that small (2.3" actually).....
I wheel my vehicle each and every weekend and its plenty reliable for offroad work maybe because i use it so much things go wrong but there is always a booty fab fix just around the corner.
Sorry if a rover on 39s has offended you..... I really am.
I may just go the toy centre conversion, either way I wanna sell my current maxi drive axles and they are pretty much sold already.
I want you guys to ignore tyre size for a second cause thats not the main factor in this.... I want more feedback on how hard it would be to plumb up the 80series brakes etc etc if the 80series diffs arnt that much wider than I prob will just got the toy centre conversion route.
Thanks for the feedback Trav i have got my priorities all screwed up but I wanna do it... I really wanna tackle sumthing new.... I dont like the idea of not having sumthing to try accomplish (stuff up compltely)
DiscoDino is lookin to run 42s no one has a prob with that so wats wrong with me running 39s
The 39 will only be for my weekend wheelin fun and crap like that.
33" All terrains for onroad work (if i do any)
and 37" or maybe 38.5" for Comps (when I am ready )
If i did scrap the toy diff swap idea and went the toy centre conversion i will end up spending more.... cause the jac mac axles alone will be costing me more than both the front and rear toys diffs are gonna cost me (disc to disc), then i have to source sum rover housings (shoudln't be to hard), and sum toy centres (should be fairly easy to) but all more $$ again....
so unless its gonna cost me around $800 to have the mounts put on the toy diffs and plumb up the brakes I am better of (and cheaper) just fittin the entire 80series diffs
Man this post is getting to long...
Look ill buy these 80series diffs and if i do decide to go the toy centre conversion atleast then I will have the centres already - and ill just flog off the left over 80series stuff cheap (the toyo boys will like that ).
Thnaks for all the feedback (both positive and negative) its all relevant
yes my penis is that small (2.3" actually).....
I wheel my vehicle each and every weekend and its plenty reliable for offroad work maybe because i use it so much things go wrong but there is always a booty fab fix just around the corner.
Sorry if a rover on 39s has offended you..... I really am.
I may just go the toy centre conversion, either way I wanna sell my current maxi drive axles and they are pretty much sold already.
I want you guys to ignore tyre size for a second cause thats not the main factor in this.... I want more feedback on how hard it would be to plumb up the 80series brakes etc etc if the 80series diffs arnt that much wider than I prob will just got the toy centre conversion route.
Thanks for the feedback Trav i have got my priorities all screwed up but I wanna do it... I really wanna tackle sumthing new.... I dont like the idea of not having sumthing to try accomplish (stuff up compltely)
DiscoDino is lookin to run 42s no one has a prob with that so wats wrong with me running 39s
The 39 will only be for my weekend wheelin fun and crap like that.
33" All terrains for onroad work (if i do any)
and 37" or maybe 38.5" for Comps (when I am ready )
If i did scrap the toy diff swap idea and went the toy centre conversion i will end up spending more.... cause the jac mac axles alone will be costing me more than both the front and rear toys diffs are gonna cost me (disc to disc), then i have to source sum rover housings (shoudln't be to hard), and sum toy centres (should be fairly easy to) but all more $$ again....
so unless its gonna cost me around $800 to have the mounts put on the toy diffs and plumb up the brakes I am better of (and cheaper) just fittin the entire 80series diffs
Man this post is getting to long...
Look ill buy these 80series diffs and if i do decide to go the toy centre conversion atleast then I will have the centres already - and ill just flog off the left over 80series stuff cheap (the toyo boys will like that ).
Thnaks for all the feedback (both positive and negative) its all relevant
dude its your car and you can do whatever you want with it...AnthonyP wrote:Landy man - My RR has plenty of upwards flex as is and I will get more upward flex after removing the rear and modding my front wheel wells
yes my penis is that small (2.3" actually)..... that was a joke
I wheel my vehicle each and every weekend and its plenty reliable for offroad work maybe because i use it so much things go wrong but there is always a booty fab fix just around the corner.
Sorry if a rover on 39s has offended you..... I really am. I just dont see the point if the 37's are getting you everywhere u want to go
I may just go the toy centre conversion, either way I wanna sell my current maxi drive axles and they are pretty much sold already.
I want you guys to ignore tyre size for a second cause thats not the main factor in this.... I want more feedback on how hard it would be to plumb up the 80series brakes etc etc if the 80series diffs arnt that much wider than I prob will just got the toy centre conversion route.
Thanks for the feedback Trav i have got my priorities all screwed up but I wanna do it... I really wanna tackle sumthing new.... I dont like the idea of not having sumthing to try accomplish (stuff up compltely)
DiscoDino is lookin to run 42s no one has a prob with that so wats wrong with me running 39s
The 39 will only be for my weekend wheelin fun and crap like that.
33" All terrains for onroad work (if i do any)
and 37" or maybe 38.5" for Comps (when I am ready )
If i did scrap the toy diff swap idea and went the toy centre conversion i will end up spending more.... cause the jac mac axles alone will be costing me more than both the front and rear toys diffs are gonna cost me (disc to disc), then i have to source sum rover housings (shoudln't be to hard), and sum toy centres (should be fairly easy to) but all more $$ again....
so unless its gonna cost me around $800 to have the mounts put on the toy diffs and plumb up the brakes I am better of (and cheaper) just fittin the entire 80series diffs
Man this post is getting to long...
Look ill buy these 80series diffs and if i do decide to go the toy centre conversion atleast then I will have the centres already - and ill just flog off the left over 80series stuff cheap (the toyo boys will like that ).
Thnaks for all the feedback (both positive and negative) its all relevant
why not first do your ute conversion and front well mods then see how you go.
Anthony,
I don't know the track for 80 series but 105 series are 1605mm front and 1600mm rear. Rangie are 1490mm front and rear.
Are you saying a GQ front diff centre will go in an 80 series front housing?
I don't go to the toyota forums much and this thread is the 1st I have heard this mentioned. I would like to know more.
I don't know the track for 80 series but 105 series are 1605mm front and 1600mm rear. Rangie are 1490mm front and rear.
Are you saying a GQ front diff centre will go in an 80 series front housing?
I don't go to the toyota forums much and this thread is the 1st I have heard this mentioned. I would like to know more.
John
Its not bolt in its alot more detailed... I havnt learnt much about it yet, thats why I was goin to just stick with the complete toyota housings for now.Bush65 wrote:Anthony,
I don't know the track for 80 series but 105 series are 1605mm front and 1600mm rear. Rangie are 1490mm front and rear.
Are you saying a GQ front diff centre will go in an 80 series front housing?
I don't go to the toyota forums much and this thread is the 1st I have heard this mentioned. I would like to know more.
Well both my maxis are pretty much sold (at a great loss ) but its a steppin stone
Its ok landy_man I understand i still lurve you
Once the current diffs come out and the body is suspended by stands I will be getting the rear end chopped off aswell as getting the work on the diffs started
Now that i have the WMS for both diffs (well not exact for the 80 but assumin) i gotta start lookin at my real options, I like the extra stance provided by the toy diffs it will also alow me to maintain a better turning circle (extra width moves the wheel and tyres away from the lower linkages).
First upgrade if i go the complete toy housings, is the CVs (haultech )
Second will be maybe researching ideas on stronger CW&P.
Anthony I was under the impression from DAS that the GQ front end is not far off boltup, though the rear end like the cruisers will require a bit of fab work. His truck looks good and is broad, and likewise the pics of Maggots truck also look the goods. I thought the weak point of the GQ axles was the CV's, but Haultech can sort that, its not really like the other kit will break. It may just save time/money by avoiding a lot of booty fab. The GQ diffs are stronger than the LC80 gear anyway. If you fork out for the GU's then you get bigger CV's also.
Cheers
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
If you go Toyota. Run 80 serie srears and 60 series front (not sure if there is width differance but if 60's is narrower then get wheel spacers to suit.
If you go Nissans get GQ, I can't see the value for money in the GU stuff yet as you only gain bigger CV's, just get haultech's ones and you would be right.
front diff bolts in with nissan radius arms, make new panhard and steering rod. use 80 series front springs and thats it.
rear you need to either move lower mount on diff or make new arms that angle out. make top mount for A-frame and thats it.
If you go Nissans get GQ, I can't see the value for money in the GU stuff yet as you only gain bigger CV's, just get haultech's ones and you would be right.
front diff bolts in with nissan radius arms, make new panhard and steering rod. use 80 series front springs and thats it.
rear you need to either move lower mount on diff or make new arms that angle out. make top mount for A-frame and thats it.
[i]DAS[/i]
MY05 4.4L V8 Range Rover Vogue
Series 2a Buggy....In the Building
MY05 4.4L V8 Range Rover Vogue
Series 2a Buggy....In the Building
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