removing vit gear box. (clutch tech)

[SiKiD_01]

i'm about to take the gearbox out of my vit, and thought i'd double check on here first, before i go ahead.

has anyone had any probs with removing one from the vit? is there anything in particular that i have to watch out for?

the way i have it is, i need to support the rear of the engine somewhere, either on the sump, or attach a block and tackle. i've also been told to put a block of wood between the dizzy, and the firewall. necessary? do i have to remove the actual dizzy?

is it possible to drop the gearbox by dropping the cross member, or do i leave the cross members and unbolt the gbox?

how heavy is a vit gbox? can i leave the vit on its wheels, or will it help if i jack the front up off the ground?

i have a 5 spd manual, and carby motor, so will i need to check for other wires? i only see about 3 that are connected to switches on the box, and the breather hoses.

also remove drive shafts, gear levers, speedo cable, and clutch cable.

does this sound about right?

thanks
Steve

[rgzook]

By the sounds of it dood you,ve covered everything there is.
The only other thing i would do is take your time don't rush as you may BREAK something important.

RGZ00K

[Beastmavster]

Dropping gearbox is easier if you let the engine pivot as the gearbox is lowered, but a few things to think of.

One: drain the oil from both the gearbox and transfer case first, not just one or the other

Two: make sure that you dont let the engine pivot too much or you may damage the engine mounts. That kind of solves your dizzy issue anyway.

Three: clearance for extractors versus RHS bolts is minimal.

Four: Wires over gearbox can be bloody fragile due to heat and age. About 3 sounds right.

Five: Gearboxes with attatched transfer case are bloody heavy, even if they're alloy. get a mate or two to help.

[Beastmavster]

Oh yeah

Six: If for any reason you think the clutch isnt perfect, repalce the bloody thing so you you dont have to do this twice.



Seven: same with rear main seal.

Eight: same with thrust bearing.

[SiKiD_01]

thanks for the advice and help. i just dont want to get started, and get stuck on something, or miss something and BREAK it.

also, can i leave the starter on, or is it attached to the gearbox?

thanks

[Beastmavster]

From memory it has to be removed. Not a biggy - one nut and a plug for power, plus two bots to case.

Remeber to disconnect battery first before attempting to remove the connections.

Also a good time to clean the thing if you've ben through mud.

[Rotazuk]

Dito on clean the thing before you start . Also when I had the gearbox out of the old man's 3 times in two days , I don't remember blocking the engine but we may have at the back . I think it just sat there nice and happily . We had 3 people , two small fries ( me and the old man) and bro in law . get a strop and loop it under the gearbox and tie it over a bit of wood in the car through the gear stick hole then slide it back and lower the front , then the back with the strop .

First time out and in 6 hours , second time in and out 2.5 hours . Third and thankfully last time 35 mins out and 30 in . With three poeple into a set routine its amazing what can be done . this includes changing the clutch each time ( don't ask )

Cheers

Chris

[Rotazuk]

Dito on clean the thing before you start . Also when I had the gearbox out of the old man's 3 times in two days , I don't remember blocking the engine but we may have at the back . I think it just sat there nice and happily . We had 3 people , two small fries ( me and the old man) and bro in law . get a strop and loop it under the gearbox and tie it over a bit of wood in the car through the gear stick hole then slide it back and lower the front , then the back with the strop .

First time out and in 6 hours , second time in and out 2.5 hours . Third and thankfully last time 35 mins out and 30 in . With three poeple into a set routine its amazing what can be done . this includes changing the clutch each time ( don't ask )

Cheers

Chris

[Rotazuk]

Dito on clean the thing before you start . Also when I had the gearbox out of the old man's 3 times in two days , I don't remember blocking the engine but we may have at the back . I think it just sat there nice and happily . We had 3 people , two small fries ( me and the old man) and bro in law . get a strop and loop it under the gearbox and tie it over a bit of wood in the car through the gear stick hole then slide it back and lower the front , then the back with the strop .

First time out and in 6 hours , second time in and out 2.5 hours . Third and thankfully last time 35 mins out and 30 in . With three poeple into a set routine its amazing what can be done . this includes changing the clutch each time ( don't ask )

Cheers

Chris

[SiKiD_01]

Dito on clean the thing before you start . Also when I had the gearbox out of the old man's 3 times in two days , I don't remember blocking the engine but we may have at the back . I think it just sat there nice and happily . We had 3 people , two small fries ( me and the old man) and bro in law . get a strap and loop it under the gearbox and tie it over a bit of wood in the car through the gear stick hole then slide it back and lower the front , then the back with the strap .


Cheers

Chris

now thats a bloody good idea if i ever read about one!

with the engine, can i tie a strap to one or both of the lifting mounts on the engine, and tie it to the front tow hook or a arms to stop it going backwards? or should i just use a block of wood.

i will be replacing the clutch. how are the PBR performance clutch kits, was qouted $290. any others i should look at?

and can i replace the rear main oil seal on the engine with the clutch and gearbox out? mine is leaking. if so, then the motor is staying right where it is, as i was going to pull the motor to do the rear main oil seal.


thanks for the info guys.

[SiKiD_01]

ok, done, with only 2 bottles jacks, a (4) besa block hoist, and 6 hours later, the gear box is on the floor.

crap its heavy, and a lot harder to take out compared to a sierra transfer+gearbox.

anyway, i looked at the throw out bearing, seems to be ok, but is it supposed to be attached to the lever/fork on both sides? mine isnt. i'll get pics tomorrow. i know, its nothing to worry about, and just put a new one in. but i was trying to find out what the problem was in the first place.

edit: i might as well put a new clutch in while i have it out. i've heard a few people use a dual friction one. how good are these... compared to a heavy duty one, or a performance one? i just want the clutch to stop slipping (so much)

and is it true i wont be able to fit crawler gears in my vit transfer? its a 89 model. i think they make them for a 92 up or something.

[Beastmavster]

You should be able to get crawler gears, but it depends on which set you order.

Knowing which gearbox and year month of manufacturer will be important.

I got a daiken heavy duty clutch and while it definately was far more effective it is quite heavy for a cable operated one and can be a little harder to deliberately slip just the right amount for low speed offroad stuff.

Other than that it was great.

[SiKiD_01]

my clutch is FARKED!

heres a couple of pics. can anyone tell how this happens?

[SiKiD_01]

some ends have snapped off.

[Beastmavster]

After pulling the thing out it's often not attached properly, but it's possible that in your case it was incorrectly assembled or had come adrift beforehand.

the marks on the pressure plate could be due to stuffed thrust/throwout bearing (call it what you will) or could be due to incorrect assembly as mentioned above.

Definately buy a full clutch kit in your case. The throw out bearing is gonna be $50 or more anyway.

[Beastmavster]

Oh yeah... common for people to grab the clutch lever arm to pick up or hold the box... that will cause it to push the throw out bearing too far out and then it will come off at one side.

That could easily have happened while dissasembling.

Remmber this when reassembling and try no to hold gearbox there.

[SiKiD_01]

is it possible to change the rear main oil seal woth the flywheel off and the motor still in the car?

[Beastmavster]

Yes.

[SiKiD_01]

i cant find a HD, or hi torque, or uprated clutch for my vit up here. can someone help me out with a part number or something?

i've tried exedy, daikin, and PBR, and so far, none list a HD clutch.

if i cnt find one this week, i'm just going to order a clutch kit for the EFi version. i'm getting my fly wheel machined anyway, so the extra 15mm shouldnt matter.

does anyone know the clamping forces for the carby 8v and the efi 16v clutches? what about the 4 door vits? would a 4 door efi vit have a stonger clutch?

getting sick of this poo, darwin sucks.

thanks for any help.

[Beastmavster]

daiken = exedy and vice hersa.

Any suzisport should have them. could try their website and order one from brissy - get it sent in the mail to you for $20 or less.