GU Diffs

[GRIMACE]

Ok here goes... I know I am a rover man and I know you guys are gonna lurve hearing this

I AM LOOKING AT PUTTING GU (not GQ) DIFFS UNDER MY RANGIE.
Now why you ask.... well this is why http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=45711

First Q - I have been told that 15" rims can fit over the GU discs..... so long as the backspacing is correct.

Second Q - wat sorta $$$ do front and rear GU diffs go for, complete disc to disc (assemble or not)

Third Q - wat is the pumpkin allignment like..? passenger side drop etc etc... i beleive the rear is centred but have no idea botu the front.


Thank you

[mickyd555]

front is to the right........infront of the drivers seat.

im running 15" rims on mine no probs. ive got a leaf rear and apparently its a stronger diff than the coil rear, but i cant remember where i heard that. i was looking at a new rear with coil mounts already on and it was gonna be about 1500 - 2000 each. im now gonna weld new mounts on

[GRIMACE]

front is to the right........infront of the drivers seat.

im running 15" rims on mine no probs. ive got a leaf rear and apparently its a stronger diff than the coil rear, but i cant remember where i heard that. i was looking at a new rear with coil mounts already on and it was gonna be about 1500 - 2000 each. im now gonna weld new mounts on

sweet if i can get both diffs disc to disc for $3000 I am sold

[mickyd555]

i think it will be more like 4000 for both, but it will be worth it.........atleast youll be half way to a decent truck then.......


pm giantracing, he will have some laying around


and have ya chopped the ass off the rangie yet?????????

[morkz]

Ok here goes... I know I am a rover man and I know you guys are gonna lurve hearing this

I AM LOOKING AT PUTTING GU (not GQ) DIFFS UNDER MY RANGIE.
Now why you ask.... well this is why http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=45711

First Q - I have been told that 15" rims can fit over the GU discs..... so long as the backspacing is correct.

Second Q - wat sorta $$$ do front and rear GU diffs go for, complete disc to disc (assemble or not)

Third Q - wat is the pumpkin allignment like..? passenger side drop etc etc... i beleive the rear is centred but have no idea botu the front.


Thank you

give adrian a call at rangieautomotive as he has just fitted GU running gear and diffs to his rangie ute.

03 9739 6989

[GRIMACE]

the main thing i am worried about is price of the diffs... the links and stuf dont matter as i will be doin a custom triangulated 4 link rear and a three link front (with very stiff swaybar for onroad use ).

Also the brake lines and plumbing them up

Will give adrian a call and see how it all went for him

[GRIMACE]

ow sh*t another thing i never though about was the front hubs etc etc

as my rangie is full time 4wd will the front hubs be ok... I beleive they have auto hubs so I guess that means they will work ok?? yes...no...

[mickyd555]

couldnt ya just leave them locked in?????

[turps]

ow sh*t another thing i never though about was the front hubs etc etc

as my rangie is full time 4wd will the front hubs be ok... I beleive they have auto hubs so I guess that means they will work ok?? yes...no...

They auto hubs have a couple of manule controled selections.
unlock
auto
locked.
Think to adjust you can use the wheel brace.

If you dont like these. The freewheeling hubs off a GQ fit and the AMV aftermarket ones are available from most 4b shops.

[morkz]

ow sh*t another thing i never though about was the front hubs etc etc

as my rangie is full time 4wd will the front hubs be ok... I beleive they have auto hubs so I guess that means they will work ok?? yes...no...

i saw adrians build up and its been done properly

he bought GQ box and transfer case and tailshafts for $600

the next part is to get the bell housing modified which he did and i have photos and it looks the part all properly done.

he's running older gq manual locking hubs so his rangie is now part time.

the cost of converting driveline to nissan will be cheaper in the end cause a GQ box is alot cheaper than a rangie.

[GRIMACE]

i want to keep the rangie LT230 tcase and ZF auto


just want stronger diffs

[toughnut]

Your looking at just under $2000 for the front diff and around $1500 for the rear. The leaf sprung rear diffs have full floating axels. The cab chassis front diffs on a GU are part time 4wd where as the wagon hubs are unlocked / auto / locked, depending on the selector. 15" rims fit fine and a few companies like wizard make 3 link rear setups to bolt on. It's a good idea to get the gearbox and transfer to match as these will be easier to get parts to suit as you should be able to use the nissan drive shafts with minor mods and the box is stonger than the rangies box anyway. Try to steer clear of a series 1 GU box though as they have been known to loose 5th gear under load. And last but not least why don't you just buy a complete patrol and drive a real truck

P.S. You can buy complete write offs from the auctions for under $10,000 and part out what you don't want to recoup some money. You probably wouldn't get too much for the rangie though

[GRIMACE]

i dont want the nissan gbox and transfer

Now the rear leaf sprung diff bein full floating is deffinately and interestin point

[bru21]

i got mine f & r complete for $3000 from gold coast 4wd wreckers. with 4.625 ratio's too.

cheers bru

[GRIMACE]

i got mine f & r complete for $3000 from gold coast 4wd wreckers. with 4.625 ratio's too.

cheers bru

if thats fof GU diffs than I am listening

[morkz]

i got mine f & r complete for $3000 from gold coast 4wd wreckers. with 4.625 ratio's too.

cheers bru

if thats fof GU diffs than I am listening

for certain no way gq diffs are worth that much and i remember in the members section he put up that he had fiited GU running gear

[GRIMACE]

ok wat do you guys think about the whole auto hub thing working with my full time 4wd tcase

apparently the hubs are the weak link in the GU diffs

[N*A*M]

do it anthony

i think this is a better option than chasing portal pipe dreams.

[turps]

ok wat do you guys think about the whole auto hub thing working with my full time 4wd tcase

apparently the hubs are the weak link in the GU diffs

Hubs are cheap. I think Birdy and Andrew Casser are using the hubs as a fuseible link. They blow before CV's. (both of these are putting out over 200rwkw's).

I think with the rangey auto and transfer. It will work well. But as some others said in the rover section. Have you thought of mogs, not sure on there costs. But with the GU stuff. You must remember that those quotes of $3000 are complete std diffs/axles hub to hub. But does not include the $3000 for lockers. Unless you plan on going hueltech traction control (dont know its cost).

[GRIMACE]

the portals are the way i would like to go but as NAM said its more of a pipe dream and spares are hard to maintain (not that i would be expecting to break shit).

I am actually starting to think aling the lines of the Toy diffs front and rear but fitting a nissan 9" centre to the front diff and broaching the side gears on the carrier to accept the toyo axles, then having the toyo CVs heat treated and ring welded and if i start having axle weaknesses i gat get chromo axles from the states at a later date.

If i doo go the toyo (custom front) route i Will most prob just weld the rear for now.

grrrrr to many options I just want a good strong setup with better brakes as a bonus.

I will have a fair bit more insight after speaking with Andrew from Rangie Automotive

[bru21]

$3000 was for gu's.

who pays $3000 for lockers they are like a smidge over $2000 a pair for arbs

[ludacris]

GQ GU rears are tough as each other and whether it is a leaf full floating or not you are very likly not to break either.

Go
GU front $2000
GQ rear $100 - $500

[GRIMACE]

GQ GU rears are tough as each other and whether it is a leaf full floating or not you are very likly not to break either.

Go
GU front $2000
GQ rear $100 - $500

was think bout this... I really wanted full floating and also the more i looked into it the 80series front with custom nissan centre will be better as its got full time spindles same as landrover.

[zzzz]

Anthony - add up the costs of the nissan's or yotas and see how much cheaper they will be than Shanes high pinion dana 60's he has for sale.

Then think which ones are stronger??
35 spline dana 60's or modified nissan/yota?

If you are going to the trouble of fitting custom diffs that are going to require suspension links, shock mounts, spring mounts, brake lines, new shafts etc. etc. you may as well do it once and do it right.

Shane's dana 60's are $4500 as they are and need lockers/gears and front shafts and unis.
Yukon allow shafts and superjoints for the front would cost $1000 or so and they are an upgrade, so you could save money with standard spicer items.
Detroits or ARB's are around the same price as nissan/yota stuff I think or a bit more
Gears are definitely going to cost you as there are not many around, but all depends on what ratio you are after.
Install costs would have to be similar for gears and lockers as it is a similar job.

The Dana 60's are obviously going to cost more than nissan/yota but they are also going to be a lot stronger and will take the beating those 39" irocs are going to hand out

He is also selling 16.5" wheels with internal beadlocks.
Plus there is tie rod and drag link etc. thrown in.
He was also chucking in Rockcrusher centres as well at one point.
Hell of a deal if you ask me, and the only reason I am not jumping on it is I am not sure of my plans at the moment

It is just a question of budget really.
Add up them both up and forget the install costs as they will be pretty much the same.

There are heaps of prices here for dana 60 stuff:
http://www.tellico4x4.com/catalog/index ... th/2880_76

Good luck which ever way you go, and keep us all posted...

cheers

z

[GRIMACE]

Anthony - add up the costs of the nissan's or yotas and see how much cheaper they will be than Shanes high pinion dana 60's he has for sale.

Then think which ones are stronger??
35 spline dana 60's or modified nissan/yota?

If you are going to the trouble of fitting custom diffs that are going to require suspension links, shock mounts, spring mounts, brake lines, new shafts etc. etc. you may as well do it once and do it right.

Shane's dana 60's are $4500 as they are and need lockers/gears and front shafts and unis.
Yukon allow shafts and superjoints for the front would cost $1000 or so and they are an upgrade, so you could save money with standard spicer items.
Detroits or ARB's are around the same price as nissan/yota stuff I think or a bit more
Gears are definitely going to cost you as there are not many around, but all depends on what ratio you are after.
Install costs would have to be similar for gears and lockers as it is a similar job.

The Dana 60's are obviously going to cost more than nissan/yota but they are also going to be a lot stronger and will take the beating those 39" irocs are going to hand out

He is also selling 16.5" wheels with internal beadlocks.
Plus there is tie rod and drag link etc. thrown in.
He was also chucking in Rockcrusher centres as well at one point.
Hell of a deal if you ask me, and the only reason I am not jumping on it is I am not sure of my plans at the moment

It is just a question of budget really.
Add up them both up and forget the install costs as they will be pretty much the same.

There are heaps of prices here for dana 60 stuff:
http://www.tellico4x4.com/catalog/index ... th/2880_76

Good luck which ever way you go, and keep us all posted...

cheers

z

goin with shanes d60s will cost me well over $6000..... I may aswell get volvo portals....
I am cheap and I dont wanna buy sum half finished diffs and then have to source all sorts of bits from all sorts of places...
Mainly why i liked the yota/gu diff idea is i can have em both setup up failry quickly and for around $3000 I aint gonna complain.

and thansk for the luck.. I am gonna need it

[JemmyBubbles]

What bout tricked up GQ gear... Wasn't Ruff? selling heat treated CV's for GQ fronts, I don't know how strong we are looking at but has to be much better than standard maybe just less than/or on par with a GU ??

I have seen f/r AirLocked GQ diffs w/ aftermarket 4.8's on hear for $3000....

Or go a factory locker rear housing w/ GU front and build a bashplate for the actuator like me ... You get selectable dog clutch style locker.... for cheaper than a rear housing + ARB or whatever. Roughly about $600 - 900 depends on what you get with it (Lines etc). These are quite strong if treated well.

Just my thoughts..or cough go the portals cough

[zzzz]

goin with shanes d60s will cost me well over $6000..... I may aswell get volvo portals....
I am cheap and I dont wanna buy sum half finished diffs and then have to source all sorts of bits from all sorts of places...
Mainly why i liked the yota/gu diff idea is i can have em both setup up failry quickly and for around $3000 I aint gonna complain.

and thansk for the luck.. I am gonna need it

Just make sure you do the sums and add it all up.
I would hate to see anyone install something they end up breaking all the time as it would be a huge waste of money

$3000 will get you locked and geared GQ stuff and I wouldn't trust them with 39's at all. Even heat treated etc. Depending on how you drive of course but I personally wouldn't bother. They are similar in strength to dana 44's.

or

$3000 will possibly get you GU's without lockers, but might cost more
So you will need to buy lockers and pay install costs.
I am not sure if you would change the ratios on these, but that is another cost.
Obviously spares are going to be easy to find

or

$4500 will get you 35 spline High pinion dana 60's with rockcrusher centres
So you will need to buy lockers and pay install costs.
Also need to buy ratios at the same time, but instlal cost barely changes.
You can sell the "normal" high pinion dana 60 housings to someone else.
They will cost 2 or 3 grand more but will be the last diffs you buy


What do you actually want to do with the truck once you have finished?
Is it being built for competition?
Weekend wheeling?
Werock?

[GRIMACE]

well I would like to get into comps but at the moment i am just enjoyin gettin it setup good enough and trying to wheel it as much as possible to get as familiar with its characteristic and everything.
I beleive i could comp it as is (with the front maxi locker extra) and prob do alright (or go like rat shit) but the stage i am at the moment is a stage where i need to wheel it with money in mind and in comps i wont be doin this and will prob end up breakin to much shit and i cant afford to be breakin and spending $1000 in comps YET

As i have said I will be trying to get atleast 4.1 gear ratios (4.56 if i go pootrol) to gain sum gearing back... and get the better brakes and shiznit.

So many options here my head is starting to hurt.

[RUFF]

As i have said I will be trying to get atleast 4.1 gear ratios (4.56 if i go pootrol) to gain sum gearing back... and get the better brakes and shiznit.

Why do you need better Brakes? Your not going to drive this on the street after you do any of these mods. Im Surprised it hasn't been put off the road yet.

[GRIMACE]

As i have said I will be trying to get atleast 4.1 gear ratios (4.56 if i go pootrol) to gain sum gearing back... and get the better brakes and shiznit.

Why do you need better Brakes? Your not going to drive this on the street after you do any of these mods. Im Surprised it hasn't been put off the road yet.

Off road as it is the brakes are not effecient enough, and it will be ok to drive onroad with 33" highway treads.... After driving the rangie for abit and then drivin any other vehicle I really start to appreciate better brakes.

As beebee DDs his lux I could DD my rangie but I obviously wont be DDin it half as much

I have been and still considering the simple toy centre conversion but i really wanna be able to flog it alittle bit more and if i do get into comps (such as tuff tracks) i wont be on anything bigger then 38s and the nissans seem to flog them abit without much damage to the diffs... and after seein fester flog his 80series I just got all excited

The 39" Iroks will be for my weekend wheelin fun and 33" ATs for any form of road use and prob get 37x14 maybe 38.5x14 creepys for comp work.