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home made console
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
home made console
im thinking of makeing an over head console to house electrical stuff like inverter, switches, radio cause these not enough room on the dash.
i have made a template out of plastic and will make the console out of ply, has any one made their own and can give ideas and advice
cheers
i have made a template out of plastic and will make the console out of ply, has any one made their own and can give ideas and advice
cheers
i don't need no stinking quote for my sig. line!
This is the centre console i made, not a roof console but its some ideas for you.
I made it out of 12mm MDF and then lined the outside with black vinyl. The upper panels are black perspex. Its got 4 clip in type 12v sockets and 3 regular cigarette lighter sockets all of which has a 20amp fuse. A 300w inverter is mounted inside it securely and you can see the white socket is a 240v outlet, this is fused at 30amp. It also has a large compartment for junk under the arm rest. The top panel still has the paper on so i can mark out locker and compressor switches plus some other switches on this panel later on. And of course a drink holder down the bottom
I basically got some cardboard from an old box at work, marked out and cut it to suit the contour of the floor of the cab then worked out what panels need to go where, arm rest height etc, and ended up with a template. Used this to cut out the 2 sides and them made up peices to hold the 2 sides together. The bottom and back are MDF where the top perspex panels dont have any MDF under them except for the drink holder. More MDF is under the armrest to section of the compartment from all the wires. All i have is a feed going into it from the 2nd battery. 3 bolts hold it all in place and its solid as a rock.
I made it out of 12mm MDF and then lined the outside with black vinyl. The upper panels are black perspex. Its got 4 clip in type 12v sockets and 3 regular cigarette lighter sockets all of which has a 20amp fuse. A 300w inverter is mounted inside it securely and you can see the white socket is a 240v outlet, this is fused at 30amp. It also has a large compartment for junk under the arm rest. The top panel still has the paper on so i can mark out locker and compressor switches plus some other switches on this panel later on. And of course a drink holder down the bottom
I basically got some cardboard from an old box at work, marked out and cut it to suit the contour of the floor of the cab then worked out what panels need to go where, arm rest height etc, and ended up with a template. Used this to cut out the 2 sides and them made up peices to hold the 2 sides together. The bottom and back are MDF where the top perspex panels dont have any MDF under them except for the drink holder. More MDF is under the armrest to section of the compartment from all the wires. All i have is a feed going into it from the 2nd battery. 3 bolts hold it all in place and its solid as a rock.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
I made my roof console for the lux, 2 lengths of 15x15 square steel tube stuff or about that size, bench vice bend to follow the roof curve, welded a couple of pieces of plate at the front to mount to the rear view mirror mounts to the roof and piece of flat plate at the back to mount where the interior light used to be.
Ran a couple of pieces of flat plate accross in the middle to hang the cb & uhf and cut some timber for the back so I could rehang the interior light and mag light. Coated the whole thing in glue and covered it with black carpet.
I'll some pics tomorrow.
Ran a couple of pieces of flat plate accross in the middle to hang the cb & uhf and cut some timber for the back so I could rehang the interior light and mag light. Coated the whole thing in glue and covered it with black carpet.
I'll some pics tomorrow.
i made one for my gq and the best thing i ever did was rip it out and chuck it! kept hittin me scon and ended up with more shit in it than i needed, im going to make another one but this time it will be big enough for my radio and thats it!
[color=lime][b]Im not a gyno but ill take a look at it for you![/b][/color]
phippsy wrote:I made my roof console for the lux, 2 lengths of 15x15 square steel tube stuff or about that size, bench vice bend to follow the roof curve, welded a couple of pieces of plate at the front to mount to the rear view mirror mounts to the roof and piece of flat plate at the back to mount where the interior light used to be.
Ran a couple of pieces of flat plate accross in the middle to hang the cb & uhf and cut some timber for the back so I could rehang the interior light and mag light. Coated the whole thing in glue and covered it with black carpet.
I'll some pics tomorrow.
have you allways had on Jason? i can't remember seeing if you had one or not. i'm interested to see these pics though.
indubitably
Just a tip:
When I made my centre console I wanted the paint to match the interior. I took a small panel (from near the dash) to the hardware store, where they matched the exact paint colour. They recommended a 500ml sample pot. Low quality but it only cost 5 bucks!

When I made my centre console I wanted the paint to match the interior. I took a small panel (from near the dash) to the hardware store, where they matched the exact paint colour. They recommended a 500ml sample pot. Low quality but it only cost 5 bucks!
2002 Turbo Diesel Dual Cab Triton
Re: home made console
My old man made one for his 60 series, did the frame up in MDF and then had it professionally covered in vynal to match his interior.stu wrote:im thinking of makeing an over head console to house electrical stuff like inverter, switches, radio cause these not enough room on the dash.
i have made a template out of plastic and will make the console out of ply, has any one made their own and can give ideas and advice
cheers
Looks like its factory, and is very neat - the whole thing cost him a bottle of bourbon.
if you like to play with fibreglass (like me), you can shape some urethane foam to what ever shape you want and fibreglass over it, scrape the foam out once the fibreglass has gone off and you have a strong, very light weight console.
so far for the feroza i have made a small bonnet extraction scoop, but i have used this foam to make plenty of other fibreglass 'one off' things for automotive and home.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/657917/3
so far for the feroza i have made a small bonnet extraction scoop, but i have used this foam to make plenty of other fibreglass 'one off' things for automotive and home.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/657917/3
pics, dribble, turbo conversion.... click [url=http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/657917/1]here.[/url]
Posts: 3725
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Joined: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:45 pm
Location: Blue Mountains, or on a rig somewhere in bumf*ck idaho
your console
i made mine for my troopy out of 2mm aluminium plate, rolled to 90 degees with a 30 mm radius at the bend. covered in colour matched vinyl and padded. edged with small profile pinch weld. Put a section of 10x10mm box section steel along the length of it just behind the fold to help stiffen it up. Looks a treat, works a treat and cost about 100 bucks all up. make sure your blank is a good fit first before cutting your sheet. and have the sheet folded before you cut your shape.
cheers
MILO
cheers
MILO
God of Magnificant Ideas!
here's a couple of pics of the one I made for my commodore bash car....
I used marine ply, wood glue and philips head countersunk screws
I'm happy with the end result ........ specially when you consider I perfer to work with steel and treat wood as heater fodder mainly !
I used marine ply, wood glue and philips head countersunk screws
I'm happy with the end result ........ specially when you consider I perfer to work with steel and treat wood as heater fodder mainly !
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
God of Magnificant Ideas!
God of Magnificant Ideas!
The Process I went through:
1/
remove the front seats
2/
make a template from cardboard so that the floor shape can be cut accurately
3/
transfer the cardboard template to some cheap as shyte 3 ply.
Add in the top shape to the design to allow for a box storage area handbrake gearshift etc etc
4/
us a staple gun and add some 2"X1" as crossmembers between the two ply templates.
This then gave me a visual appearance of how it would look.
I then refitted the front seats ( tempararily) for a final fit and clearance on the seats.
5/
Went nuts with the jigsaw and cut the shape from the 3 ply template to the 6 ply marine wood.
6/
cut the main flats out to suit and screwed em into place
7/
made up the storage box section minus lid.
8/
cut holes for gearshift and handbrake and did a "test fit"
more trimming......
even more trimming .....
finally happy with the fit
also drilled holes for additional ciggy lighters and switches ( did a test fit of them too.)
9/
pulled it apart and added PVA wood glue to all joints and rescrewed it. After the glue had dried I removed each screw individually and countersunk each screwhole and then ground the heads of the screws slightly to "ruff em up" a bit.
10/
used bog to fill the screw heads up
11/
ran the sander polisher over the edges to round em off
12/
re bogged any small imperfections and then sprayed it with a pressurepak of "Spray putty" ..... about 3 coats.
13/
used a sanding block with 180 grit paper and blocked the whole thing back so it was smoooooooooooth as.
14/
sprayed the "finished" product with "stoneguard"
The stoneguard finish is durable and has an unusual appearance and it blends in well.
Oh and it took me a Saturday and a Sunday to this and that was from start to fitted !
Kingy
1/
remove the front seats
2/
make a template from cardboard so that the floor shape can be cut accurately
3/
transfer the cardboard template to some cheap as shyte 3 ply.
Add in the top shape to the design to allow for a box storage area handbrake gearshift etc etc
4/
us a staple gun and add some 2"X1" as crossmembers between the two ply templates.
This then gave me a visual appearance of how it would look.
I then refitted the front seats ( tempararily) for a final fit and clearance on the seats.
5/
Went nuts with the jigsaw and cut the shape from the 3 ply template to the 6 ply marine wood.
6/
cut the main flats out to suit and screwed em into place
7/
made up the storage box section minus lid.
8/
cut holes for gearshift and handbrake and did a "test fit"
more trimming......
even more trimming .....
finally happy with the fit
also drilled holes for additional ciggy lighters and switches ( did a test fit of them too.)
9/
pulled it apart and added PVA wood glue to all joints and rescrewed it. After the glue had dried I removed each screw individually and countersunk each screwhole and then ground the heads of the screws slightly to "ruff em up" a bit.
10/
used bog to fill the screw heads up
11/
ran the sander polisher over the edges to round em off
12/
re bogged any small imperfections and then sprayed it with a pressurepak of "Spray putty" ..... about 3 coats.
13/
used a sanding block with 180 grit paper and blocked the whole thing back so it was smoooooooooooth as.
14/
sprayed the "finished" product with "stoneguard"
The stoneguard finish is durable and has an unusual appearance and it blends in well.
Oh and it took me a Saturday and a Sunday to this and that was from start to fitted !
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
God of Magnificant Ideas!
I forgot to add .....
This is the same process we used for the console we built for the General Lee ( last years bash car ) and it survived well .
The extra ciggy lighters are for mobile phone socket and GPS socket power points. The extra switches ( 5 in total ) are for other gear in the car such as revolving lights, exhaust flame controler, pedestrain squirter, driving lights, siren amplifier ( 100watt).
There are also a dozen other switches mounted up on the dash but all are controled by 3 main switches which are seperately located, this way ALL power can be cut off to unessecary things instantly.
Switch 1 controls all lighting IE: revolving, driving, roof mounted side light, additional interior and boot lights.
Switch 2 controls all sound units IE: UHF, stereo, siren module, siren module amplifier, & gimick switches ( exhaust smoker ets etc )
Switch 3 controls all other extra componets such as the fridge and ciggy lighter sockets.
The entire console is held in place by ONE bolt
This bolt is fitted at the very rear of the console and is part of the floor bar of the main rollcage hoop.
the front of theconsole is "wedged" in place between locators welded to the actual floorpan.
Kingy
This is the same process we used for the console we built for the General Lee ( last years bash car ) and it survived well .
The extra ciggy lighters are for mobile phone socket and GPS socket power points. The extra switches ( 5 in total ) are for other gear in the car such as revolving lights, exhaust flame controler, pedestrain squirter, driving lights, siren amplifier ( 100watt).
There are also a dozen other switches mounted up on the dash but all are controled by 3 main switches which are seperately located, this way ALL power can be cut off to unessecary things instantly.
Switch 1 controls all lighting IE: revolving, driving, roof mounted side light, additional interior and boot lights.
Switch 2 controls all sound units IE: UHF, stereo, siren module, siren module amplifier, & gimick switches ( exhaust smoker ets etc )
Switch 3 controls all other extra componets such as the fridge and ciggy lighter sockets.
The entire console is held in place by ONE bolt
This bolt is fitted at the very rear of the console and is part of the floor bar of the main rollcage hoop.
the front of theconsole is "wedged" in place between locators welded to the actual floorpan.
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
Here are some pics of the roof console I'm building at the moment to house my CD player and speakers, new remote face UHF, CDMA mobile car kit and some switchs and relays.


http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
this is the one i made for my mav. might give you some ideas.
http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/t135-hom ... nsole.html
http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/t135-hom ... nsole.html
1989 Ford Maverick Turbo Diesel Tourer
4" spring lift 2" body lift
33" MT/R's
4" spring lift 2" body lift
33" MT/R's
dude u got any info about it, i like it, wanna make one for a dual cabluxtoughnut wrote:Here are some pics of the roof console I'm building at the moment to house my CD player and speakers, new remote face UHF, CDMA mobile car kit and some switchs and relays.
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=47136]THE SUSLUX[/url]
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=50913]THE EXTRACAB[/url]
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=50913]THE EXTRACAB[/url]
I'm just on my way out to the shed to do a bit more to it so I'll take some more pics. Basically its 3mm MDF with some alloy angle and flat to make a bit of a frame and brace it up. It's very light without any of the gear in it. I'm sealing off the speaker part of it to get better sound. The UHF is a remote face so the main unit and the mobile kit will just sit inside under a cover that will have some switches. The CD player sits in the middle facing backwards on about a 45 degree angle to get access. It's really quite strong for the weight as well. Anyway enough talking about it I'll go and do some work. 
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
kewl, i'll have it painted grey when ya done thanxtoughnut wrote:I'm just on my way out to the shed to do a bit more to it so I'll take some more pics. Basically its 3mm MDF with some alloy angle and flat to make a bit of a frame and brace it up. It's very light without any of the gear in it. I'm sealing off the speaker part of it to get better sound. The UHF is a remote face so the main unit and the mobile kit will just sit inside under a cover that will have some switches. The CD player sits in the middle facing backwards on about a 45 degree angle to get access. It's really quite strong for the weight as well. Anyway enough talking about it I'll go and do some work.
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=47136]THE SUSLUX[/url]
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=50913]THE EXTRACAB[/url]
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=50913]THE EXTRACAB[/url]
Hey does anyone else have any more pics of roof consoles? Im very interested in making one for myself now. I'm interested how you get the power/aerial cables up to the roof without it looking dodge......thanks.
I noticed there was another guy on that forum aside BigMav who had some pics, but they must be offline now. Does anyone have them? Thanks.
I noticed there was another guy on that forum aside BigMav who had some pics, but they must be offline now. Does anyone have them? Thanks.
If you have mouldings on your "A" pillars or "B" pillars you can run it up behind them and on top of the roof lining.
I've nearly finished mine but I can't upload any pics onto my host site at the moment. 
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
hey sorry to revive this shit again, but i was just thinking, if you've made yourself a console right, so you've got it all ready to screw into the roof (just say where the light and mirror fixtures are) .... how do u get to the holes when the holes your going to use are now covered by the console?! do u get what i mean??
ill draw a dodgey pic:
ill draw a dodgey pic:
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Your right it is a dodgy drawing
Nah, you can do it a couple of ways. First way is to just screw a panel on over where the holes are or just leave them exposed. You can sometimes cover the screws if they are small and you're using carpet. Cut a small "X" just big enough for the screw to fit through and then smooth the fabric over the top of the screw. You need someting like carpet though. Second is to use plugs like on car door skins to hold the panel on. You can get them from upolstery places.
There are many more ways I'm sure.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 6&t=231346j-top paj wrote:gayer than jizz on a beard
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