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39" Iroks to rover
Moderator: Micka
OK Everyone is talkin GQs again... I want full floating axles.
In regards to strength (of the toyo gear) I have been looking at
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/
noticed they have a Heat treating and Cryogenic freeze process to make the CW&P stronger (been told this is a waste of time), also notice the price of there gear is quiet cheap (well its alot of coin but you get wat i mean)
Ill have no less strength than if i went the toy centre conversion route (which i may still decide to go)...
Well I complete the sales of the crap I have now, work out just how much $$$ ill have to waste and then let you guys know the rough figure and see wat you guys think it will get me
My mind hasnt been made up yet but I really do like the availibilitie of the toyo stuff.
In regards to strength (of the toyo gear) I have been looking at
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/
noticed they have a Heat treating and Cryogenic freeze process to make the CW&P stronger (been told this is a waste of time), also notice the price of there gear is quiet cheap (well its alot of coin but you get wat i mean)
Ill have no less strength than if i went the toy centre conversion route (which i may still decide to go)...
Well I complete the sales of the crap I have now, work out just how much $$$ ill have to waste and then let you guys know the rough figure and see wat you guys think it will get me
My mind hasnt been made up yet but I really do like the availibilitie of the toyo stuff.
80 series track with zero offset wheels is 1595mm front, 1600mm rear (from RTA tech sheet).
GQ similar from what I have read.
GU (assuming zero offset wheels) track is 1605mm front, 1625mm rear (from 4wd monthly).
100 series solid axle track front 1605mm, rear 1600mm (4wd monthly) however this is with the skinny split rims, which I'm pretty sure are +30mm offset.
So with zero offset wheels the track would be 1665mm front, 1660mm rear.
I'd go for the 100 series if you could, they have a few improvements over 80 series according to NICK, including bigger wheel bearings. I wouldn't worry about wheel availability either, the steel 16 x 8's are not very sought after at the wreckers.
GQ similar from what I have read.
GU (assuming zero offset wheels) track is 1605mm front, 1625mm rear (from 4wd monthly).
100 series solid axle track front 1605mm, rear 1600mm (4wd monthly) however this is with the skinny split rims, which I'm pretty sure are +30mm offset.
So with zero offset wheels the track would be 1665mm front, 1660mm rear.
I'd go for the 100 series if you could, they have a few improvements over 80 series according to NICK, including bigger wheel bearings. I wouldn't worry about wheel availability either, the steel 16 x 8's are not very sought after at the wreckers.
From any angle you are looking at it should u start from scratch, Nissan diffs are not the key...Toys are...the choices start with keeing the stock Rover housing (simple, done, great value, & strong), to slapping a whole 60 series front end (wider? issues?) and a 9.5" R&P 80 rear...simple...
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
Your on the money there but I WANT THE WIDTH and i need it at the front so I can claim back sum full lock steering (specially with 39s), the extra width will allow me to have the tyre further away from the lower link/radius arm.DiscoDino wrote:From any angle you are looking at it should u start from scratch, Nissan diffs are not the key...Toys are...the choices start with keeing the stock Rover housing (simple, done, great value, & strong), to slapping a whole 60 series front end (wider? issues?) and a 9.5" R&P 80 rear...simple...
Alot of people just say to get further offset wheels but what you dont realise is it moves the wheel in an arch (harder to steer) pushin it furter towards the front and rear of the guards. I dont want this, I want 8" rims with 4" offset/backspacing (roughly centre mount).
About the front 60series diff comments, how hard is it to get front 60series components and can i get sum specs on them.
The main reason i goin 80series front is the price (i am getting it fairly cheap).
The 60 series front has the same centre as used in the rear. So gear strength is ok, but it has smaller cv's than 80/100 series.
I'm not sure, but I think 60 series is narrower than 80 series.
If you fit 105 series knuckles to 60 series housing, you will have problems with the tie rod - needs to be cranked around the low pinion.
In my opinion it would be better to put 105 series knuckles and hubs onto a nissan high pinion front. I am tempted to do this myself as I already have all of the 105 series stuff needed, just have to get a 4.3:1 nissan front (and lockers and custom axles).
I'm not sure, but I think 60 series is narrower than 80 series.
If you fit 105 series knuckles to 60 series housing, you will have problems with the tie rod - needs to be cranked around the low pinion.
In my opinion it would be better to put 105 series knuckles and hubs onto a nissan high pinion front. I am tempted to do this myself as I already have all of the 105 series stuff needed, just have to get a 4.3:1 nissan front (and lockers and custom axles).
John
mah I am trying to steer clear of custom axles as I want easy availablilities... I wanna cary lots of spares and I wanne be able to change it all over my self with out too much fuss.
So far $$$ wise i should be able to go the chromo axles and cvs
100series diffs arnt available at the right price so thats why i am still goin 80series. Its should be preettty strong in forward (the front) just have to be carefull in reverse
So far $$$ wise i should be able to go the chromo axles and cvs
100series diffs arnt available at the right price so thats why i am still goin 80series. Its should be preettty strong in forward (the front) just have to be carefull in reverse
60 series are a fair bit more narrow than 80, and maybe even your current diffs and as said have the weak standard cv's.
You do have the option of (bolt on $400) hub spacers on the front of the 60, which increases track by 70 ish mm, however it increases scrub radius like putting bigger offset rims on which you don't want.
I've heard the smaller front reverse cut hp diff on 80 is stronger than the lp on 60 when going forwards in theory?
I think the 80's diff are good value choice.
You do have the option of (bolt on $400) hub spacers on the front of the 60, which increases track by 70 ish mm, however it increases scrub radius like putting bigger offset rims on which you don't want.
I've heard the smaller front reverse cut hp diff on 80 is stronger than the lp on 60 when going forwards in theory?
I think the 80's diff are good value choice.
GQ wrote:why change both front and rear to 80s??
So far you've worked out that you want to go 80s.. but afraid of usin the 80 front diff..
why not an 80 rear and a 60 front???
mix parts for a better result??
as has just been mentioned 60s front is too narrow. and as i mentioned b4 i getting the 80series stuff cheap. thats all really.
Thats why they invented spacers.AnthonyP wrote:
as has just been mentioned 60s front is too narrow. and as i mentioned b4 i getting the 80series stuff cheap. thats all really.
For what you seem to want to do (ie no road / long distance) 60's will rock.
Just do it already.
Dave
Land Rover Discovery - GQ conversion underway
Just leave it as is and drive the farker for christs sake! I'm gunna do this and i'm gunna do that - and you do nothing but fark it up !RUFF wrote:Anthony Stop Talking about it and go and do it It obviously doesnt matter what anyone else tells you, youre going to do it all wrong anyway. Look at the last thing you tried to convert on your own.
How good does that rear Maxi Drive work
Saddle up tonto, its the not so loanrangie! . 98 TDI DISCO lightly modded with more to come.
Jeees Anthony...
you're getting fairly well raped on this topic, old mate.
I guess from reading all of the replies that either the boys love giving it to you...or you have cried wolf one too many times.
Or the boys just love giving it to you
Spread those cheeks nice and wide, Grimace. All of OuterLimits is coming thru
Micka.
you're getting fairly well raped on this topic, old mate.
I guess from reading all of the replies that either the boys love giving it to you...or you have cried wolf one too many times.
Or the boys just love giving it to you
Spread those cheeks nice and wide, Grimace. All of OuterLimits is coming thru
Micka.
Glad it's you not me doing all these 'experiment' driveline conversions.
If I see you driving down the M1 I'll be heading for the nearest off-ramp. knowing my luck the bloody thing will fall apart while your driving alongside me
Don't be another CRO (Cheapskate Rangie Owner) and do it properly this time
Trav
If I see you driving down the M1 I'll be heading for the nearest off-ramp. knowing my luck the bloody thing will fall apart while your driving alongside me
Don't be another CRO (Cheapskate Rangie Owner) and do it properly this time
Trav
Land Rover- The Collingwood of 4WD's!!!!
I don't think anyone could reproduce that effortAnthonyP wrote:at great expense ofcourseMicka wrote:He's going alright
Will be crawling all over bumcracks when its done...hey Anthony
Micka
I wanna try drive the left butt cheek like the performance we seen on the weekend
Lucky for him that Shane drove it first and could drag him up. Scotty could have got squashed I mean
Micka
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