Flame suit on already, but whilst pondering my next job on my lux this morning was wondering if the Range rover A-frame I have sitting in my shed could be used as a trac bar, as I am planning to coil the rear later this year, was wondering if the ball joint would be enough to limit the amount of axle wrap in the rear, I'm running IFS rears with the two load leafs flipped upside down, otherwise I've got all the bits to fab a trac bar, am asking to see if I can save myself some work further down the track when I finally coil the rear.
I'm thinking it's too short and will bind, and that the single ball joint would not be enough to stop it wrapping, but anyones logical thoughts are appreciated.
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Using rangie a-frame as a trac bar
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Using rangie a-frame as a trac bar
Try not to let your mind wander...It is too
small and fragile to be out by itself.
small and fragile to be out by itself.
Using an A-Frame as a track bar isn't a good idea as you're introducing another "Instant Centre" which is a point along your roll axis. By installing the A-Frame, you now have two roll axis fighting each other and thus, binding. You'd be far better off installing the A-Frame, throwing in some lower links and making some sliders for the spring perches and putting shackles at both the front and rear of the spring. This gives you the same spring rate that you're used to but has the advantage of the control of the 3 link. That way you've got an easy link suspension without stuffing around with coil mounts.
In short, I would advise against the a-frame as a torque arm. However....if you want to use something out of a rangie, grab a front control/radius arm and you have a perfect torque arm premade with bushes already installed. And guaranteed not to break!
In short, I would advise against the a-frame as a torque arm. However....if you want to use something out of a rangie, grab a front control/radius arm and you have a perfect torque arm premade with bushes already installed. And guaranteed not to break!
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Thanks Dave, I've pretty much abandoned the idea, really didn't think it would work, but just asking in case it wasn't so undoable, My mates has the rangie radius arm on his 73 cruiser running 38.5 swampers and custom springs, works real well, I've got two radius arms out of a 80's sitting in my shed for this reason, just workin out if I could use the both of them either side of centre without binding to much.
Don't want to go to crazy on mods on my Lux now as I'm liking the idea of handing Haultech money, and recieving a buggy at the end of it, so wanna keep the lux so it can be sold later this year sometime.
Don't want to go to crazy on mods on my Lux now as I'm liking the idea of handing Haultech money, and recieving a buggy at the end of it, so wanna keep the lux so it can be sold later this year sometime.
Try not to let your mind wander...It is too
small and fragile to be out by itself.
small and fragile to be out by itself.
Hey John, u wont need 1 run 2 radius arms 2 control the rap, by running 2 u will find it will bind more than 1 does, just mount one in the centre and swing a shackle from the gorse collar and b done with it, i have a single link trac bar in there now, it wasnt as successful as i had hoped event ho i was told this b4 i did it, its just 1 of them things u gotta do so u can make it right in yer own mind
anyways, im about 2 shorten the wheelbase on my junk by using IFS rears in my cstom mounts 4 the long springs i have, it should get me from 118" down 2 about 110", if not ill fa up somw new mounts but i plan on using a GQ radius arm. only coz i have a pair here but from all reports i have seen they seem 2 work well.
anyways, im about 2 shorten the wheelbase on my junk by using IFS rears in my cstom mounts 4 the long springs i have, it should get me from 118" down 2 about 110", if not ill fa up somw new mounts but i plan on using a GQ radius arm. only coz i have a pair here but from all reports i have seen they seem 2 work well.
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